Hey guys, I've got six rifles I'm gonna start in on load development on. I already stocked up on components. I just had a couple of questions.

In the past I've done the standard "10% below max, work up in 1/2 grain increments, 3rds each, look for pressure, adjust for accuracy".

In the hopes of saving time I was considering doing the ladder method (Audette) Hot Core talked about.

My 1st Question: Can this be used if I only have access to a 100yd range?

In the past I always take the Cartridge OAL from the book and seat to that (in some cases shorter if magazine doesn't allow) and go with that.

My 2nd Question: how much does the seating of the bullet in relation to the lans actually affect accuracy?

Remember, these are hunting rifles, not benchrest rigs. I want minute of meat

I plan to get a lead sled to help out because I'm not a great shot and undersand with the ladder you need to get as much consistency in the shooting as possible otherwise you get erroneous data.

Thanks for the help guys.

Red

I don't think the ladder method works well at 100yds, 200 is better & 300 best. In an accurate rifle, you'll land most of your shots into a group you can't pick individual rounds out of.
Like you, I want to know what safe pressures my rifle will with take. So I load 1 weighed powder charge each in 1/2gr increments to average book max, starting 5% of average book max. Shoot them in order over a chronograph into one group. Note vel, & any pressure signs. If I start seeing vel over book or obvious pressure signs, then & back off 1gr & will load that charge for accuracy testing.
The ladder method is shot the same way, 1 round @ 200yds in 1/2gr increments, looking for the same pressure signs. Depending on the bullet & barrel, distance to lands can play a big part in accuracy. CLoser is not always better though. The mono metals seem to want a bit of running room & shoot better for me well off the lands.

I doubt you will get results you can gain anything anything from at 100yds. 200 min 300 better.

Normally you can expect a little better accuracy seating your bullet just off the lands. In most factory rifles the magazine won't allow you to seat out that far. As to importance powder & charge and bullet will normally have a much greater impact than bullet jump.

I don't think the ladder method works real great at close range. The Optimal Charge Weight method works better at 100yds.

Here's instructions: Optimal Charge Weight

thanks guys, there is a range that I could join that has a longer range, but they're complete a**holes in my experience, and it's 150 a year, plus I think 5 a day to shoot. the one I decided to join only has 100yds, but they are 7 days a week, sunup to sundown, 85 a year, have trap and skeet and a pond with fish for the kids, nice clubhouse etc. seem much more relaxed, more my kind of place.

Red

quote:

Originally posted by Dago Red:
In the past I've done the standard "10% below max, work up in 1/2 grain increments, 3rds each, look for pressure, adjust for accuracy".

Nothing wrong with that approach either. If you put the 3-shots on separate Targets which you have made with about 20# paper, you can "Stack" the Targets(2-3) and look at a bright light to see if there is any group movement. You can also Measure and Average the X/Y coordinates from the center of the 3 Bullet holes to see movement.

quote:

My 1st Question: Can this be used if I only have access to a 100yd range?

Needless to say, I agree with the majority of the other responders. However, it also depends on the "Cartridge" you are working with. If it is a 30-30, 35Rem, 357Mag, 44Mag, etc. in a rifle, then 100yds might do just fine.

The problem with flat shooting cartridges at 100yds, is you may or may not have enough separation between the Holes to "easily" see the entire Harmonic Node.

If you try this at 100yds, take a good Spotting Scope with you and record each shot as it is fired on a Target beside you. Or, shoot a couple on one Target, a couple on another and stack them to determine the movement. It just makes it harder on you at 100yds with the flat shooters.

quote:

My 2nd Question: how much does the seating of the bullet in relation to the lans actually affect accuracy?

It can vary enough to make about any answer correct. Normally though, I use the Seating Depth adjustment as a Fine Tuning method after locating the best Harmonic Node.

quote:

Remember, these are hunting rifles, not benchrest rigs. I want minute of meat

Therefore, it is waaaaaaay more important to get a consistently accurate Load than when folks are just punching holes in paper.

quote:

I plan to get a lead sled to help out because I'm not a great shot and undersand with the ladder you need to get as much consistency in the shooting as possible otherwise you get erroneous data. ...

Best of luck with the Lead Sled. I'm not a fan of them at all. If your shots at Game will be relatively close, then it should do fine. But, if they are close, then you really don't need to use the never improved upon Creighton Audette Method anyhow.

By the way, I generally Benchmark a rifle with Sierra MatchKings(or a Target Grade Bullet) just to see what level of accuracy the firearm is capable of. Then I have an idea how well the Hunting Grade Bullets I "want to use" are doing, or I know to quit wasting time and components, and go on to a different one.

Best of luck in your Load Development.

Whatever method you want to use Red, these are hunting rilfes!! How much Accuracy do you really need? If you can get around MOA at 100 yds. and you know what you're doing in the field The rest is just chit chat. JMHO roger

I second Hot Core on the Lead Sled. I bought one, used it, and gave it away. Invest in a high quality (heavy) front rest and a bunny ear rear bag. Go to Sinclair International. This equipment isn't cheap, but it will last about 300 years.