I have just purchased a Nesika in 243AI with a .270 neck.
I have reloaded for factory chambers, but this is the first delve into the realms of neck turning.

Can I fireform Lapua 243 brass without turning the necks down from their .276 (ish) diameter?
Do I turn the whole neck down to the neck?
Do I need to get dies that state .270 or will the standard 243AI 40 degree dies do?

I have used the Redding Match/Competition dies, but will I benefit from these over the standard delux ones. I'm lazy but don't want to ruin the rifles ability by scrimping. I always feel any variable (bushing and depth of bush sizing) will likely work against me.

Do I need to internaly trim the necks?

Anyone recomend a good, simple neck turner? I have an RCBS neck trimmer with a chamfer trimmer on it, can that be adapted???


Thanks all.

DW,

Send me a PM - I'll help you get started with you new boomer!

Your cases have to be turned before fire forming, they should not even chamber without turning. When turning you do want to turn all the way to neck and shoulder junction.
Once your brass is neck turned, the majority of guys go to a bushing die, I think it is the only way to realize your rifles potential. I know of noone that is seriously into any kind of accuracy shooting that touches the inside of a cases neck, at least after they try it once. As far as anyone that I know is conserned, anything other then cleaning the inside with a bronze or nylon brush not only does no good, it can screw things up fairly well. A small inexpensive K&M turning tool is a very good one, and do yourself a favor and don't ever go to the expense of trying one of the lathe type turners, there isn't one worth anything, that includes your RCBS trimmer.

As bbeyer has suggested, the cases may not even chamber without turning. They may however as the necks with some of the boatails may measure very close or just under .270 depending on the lot of Lapua brass you have. This is absolutely NOT enough clearence in any case. For a .270 nk your loaded neck dimension should be .267 or .268. If the rifle is chambered properly, there will be a crush fit on the brass so no headspace issues will occur when fireforming. For the money, I don't think you can do any better than the K&M.

Good purchase and rewarding endeavor.

1. No, do not fireform the Lapua 243 brass without turning down the necks. Your necks should be turned to .268". Do this by subtracting .243" (bullet diameter) from .268" = .025". Divide .025" in half = .0125" per side so set neck turning tool up to cut wall thickness to .0125".

2. Yes, turn the whole neck down to the shoulder, but do not cut into the shoulder.

3. You need a .268" neck sizing bushing. Use the Redding Competition Die Set you have.

4. No, you should not need to inside neck ream. Inside neck reaming is usually done when case forming from a parent case (example:.308 Win to .243 Win) creates excess wall thickness.

5. Sinclair hand neck turning tool.

Good luck. Hope this helps

Thanks all.
Got some great details here. The seller states that he uses a .268 bush for the handloads, but I will get both.
A friend has offered his lathe to turn a few hundred Lapua 243s down.

I'm glad I asked as I was intending on fireforming with Norma factory loads.

Gerry, mail on the way.
Thanks again gents.