Hi guys,
I recently bought some supplies for reloading my .454 Casull SRH. I've been reloading bottle neck rifle cartridges for a little while and have been satisfied with the results thus far. I have a couple of questions about reloading straight-walled cartridges though. They are:

1. My cases seem to develop a slight "hour-glass" shape after the initial resizing step. It is slight, but noticeable. Is this normal?

2. How much bell is actually required in the case mouth. The bullets seem to seat adequately regardless when I've been experimenting with dummy rounds.

3. A lot of reloading manuals list the primers used as being of the small rifle variety. Are small rifle magnums also acceptable in .454?

4. Finally, are there any pressure signs that I should watch out for that are different or not encountered in bolt rifles? I'm going to be fairly cautious since this is my first experiment with large-caliber revolvers.

Thanks in advance,
John
Thanks

1.) The cases should be straight after the initial sizing.

2.) Just bell the mouth enough to start the bullets easily, no wrinkling the cases or shaving bullets. The less you work the mouths, the longer the brass will last.

3.) You can use either primer in your cases but pick which ones that you want to use and do all the development with that primer. Do not switch primers after developing loads.

4.) Felt recoil is probably the best indicator. If it feels wrong, stop what you're doing. Primer condition is also an indicator but since you're using the harder rifle primers it may not show up until you get to dangerous levels.

Often with cases like the .454, the die sizes the neck portion down considerably, and the expander plug is quite a bit undersized. This might be responsible for the appearance you describe. The reason for this is to give the case a tight purchase on the bullet due to the significant recoil of these rounds.

The amount of bell required on case mouths is just what is necessary to start the bullet without the edge of the case mouth cutting into the bullet base or shank. This is critical with cast lead bullets, and not so much of a problem with jacketed ones. I always crimp straingt-case rounds as a separate step after seating the bullets. I screw the seating die out so the crimping shoulder doesn't quite touch the case, adjust the seating plug to put the bullet crimp groove even with the case mouth, and seat the bullets. Then I screw the seating stem out so it won't touch the bullets, and screw the die down to where it touches the shell holder, then crimp all the rounds.

Cartridges like the .454 which use the slow powders needed for HV performance require a heavy crimp for complete powder burning and to keep bullets from creeping out of the case due to recoil.

You could use Magnum SR primers, but your powder charges will have to be worked up with that kind of primer if you use them. (May require a drop in powder weight.)

In revolver ammunition, the main pressue sign I watch for is difficult ejection. You can't tell much from looking at fired primer condition.

What type of dies are you using? The sizer won't size all they way to the base of the case, so it will be a bit larger in dia at the base than the sized area. I'd use a set of calipers to see if the case is truely hourglassed or not.

As far as belling, bell the case just enough accept a bullet. Cast bullets will be shaved by the case mouth if you don't sufficiently bell, jacketed bullets are more tollerant of a minimal bell. If you bell excessively, you'll find the case mouths start splitting after only a few reloads. With minimal belling, and a reasonable crimp, you can get many loads out of your brass.

I'd go with what the manuals recomend for primers, but would think that when using powders with a heavy deterrent coating, ie H-110 or W-296, you might find a mag primer gives better ignition. For the faster burning powders such as unique, blue dot, 2400 and Lil-gun, std primers will likely work best.

The 454 actually works at the same pressure as rifle cartridges, so the conventional rifle pressure signs also apply. Generally I find the first sign of high pressures in a revolver is sticky extraction of the case from the cylinder. It's definately noticable, and seems to be linear.

For instance, when I was working up loads for my 480, and there was almost no printed data, I was on my own. I'd go from a load that would drop out easily, to a bit stiffer load that had a little bit of resistance to ejecting the brass, and I figured maybe the cylinder was dirty, to the next higher load that was definately hard to extract. I would not recomend going past loads that show any resistance to extracting, and would consider the next lower load that extracts easily as the max load.

After loading and firing these in your handgun you may check to see if any of the bullets are working loose due to the crimp being to light. If so you may try seating the bullet in one step without using any crimp and then going back and readjusting the die to crimp and recrimping.
If you try to crimp to much in the same step as seating the bullets you may notice a buldge.
Each revolver is different but these big bruisers sometime present different problems for us to solve.

Paul,
I'm using the 3 die RCBS set with the carbide resizing die. It isn't actually a true hourglass shape until after I have loaded the bullet, thus expanding the mouth back out to normal limits. Again, it is pretty minimal, and I havn't actually put the calipers to it yet. Should I just be sizing the first half or so of the case, or do you guys run the case to the top of the stroke?

I'm using Cast Performance 370 gr. bullets and W296. Anyone have any experience with this combo? I'm more interested in accuracy than power at this point, as I won't be hunting anything that will bite or stomp on me.

Hey John, Hold a Bullet up beside a Loaded Cartridge and see if the Case "gets slightly smaller in diameter" just below where the Bullet in the Case is.

If that is what you are calling an Hourglass Shape, it is normal.

If you rotate the Cartridge in your fingers, you may also notice it "bulges" slightly more in one place on the Case Wall instead of being consistant all the way around. This is also normal and due to the Case Wall being minutely thinner on that side.

Stick with the "Exact" Components and at or below MAX Loads shown in the Manuals when using Jacketed Bullets and you will do fine.
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You can use Lead Loads shown for the 45 Long Colt if you have trouble finding the Lead Loads you want. Or contact the Lead Bullet Manufacturer.

Best of luck to you.
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Nearly forgot, since you asked about Pressure, you can go right here for Che & PRE information.

You will need to focus on the PRE portion and it will always keep you SAFE.

Thanks guys.