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Reforming 375 brass from 30-30 (not fireforming)?
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Hi guys what do I need to form 375 WIN brass from 30-30 cases.

I would rather do the forming work in the press than by fireforming.

What do I need?
 
Posts: 49 | Location: Australia | Registered: 03 December 2011Reply With Quote
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Have you done a Google search for "forming 375 Win from 30-30? I found lots of information.


Rusty
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Posts: 9797 | Location: Missouri City, Texas | Registered: 21 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I did, but nearly all of it was about fire forming! I gathered that using a lee flaring die body, but using a 33 WCF, a 35 Whelan and a 375H&H expander in the die might be the way to gently open up a 30-30 case as they all have gentle shoulder and therefore I assume a more gradual taper on the expander. The second two would have to be trimmed shorter however!

The case should be annealed prior to forming.

After expanding the 30-30 case up to 338-358-375 tapered, the brass could then be full length sized using a 375 FL die.

Is this on the right track?
 
Posts: 49 | Location: Australia | Registered: 03 December 2011Reply With Quote
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I tried forming from .30-30 brass years ago, and the best method by far was fire forming. I loaded up about 12 grains of RedDot (other fast powders will work) topped with a tissue wad and voila (the exact charge depends on the brass brand/hardness/powder, you may need a bit more or less). All that was required next was a quick trim to square up the case mouth and I had perfect cases.

Using expanders was tedious and resulted in a deformed case with a wasp waist and a crooked case mouth. And it still required fire forming (with a bullet - $$$) to make a decent .375 case.

I used new cases so anealing was not required. The problems were not caused by case hardness anyway, but by tools not designed for the job. Save yourself a lot of headache and use the fireforming method. And remember that the .30-30 cases are thinner than .375 brass, velocities will be a bit lower and brass strength a bit less (although the latter probably not enough to matter).



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Posts: 677 | Location: Arizona USA | Registered: 22 January 2006Reply With Quote
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The reason I don't want to fire form is; if a vertical shot is required for even expansion. The range at which I shot will ban me if I start taking vertical shots, even if there is no bullet and its for fire forming!
 
Posts: 49 | Location: Australia | Registered: 03 December 2011Reply With Quote
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I fire formed cases why a vertical shot with a proper charge one shouldn't have to hold the rifle vertical
 
Posts: 19835 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I don't know, someone said to get an even case, is it not necessary?
 
Posts: 49 | Location: Australia | Registered: 03 December 2011Reply With Quote
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If you use a filler and plug you will get decent results.

I have fired formed 30-30 to .375 firing vertically and it does not work well without a filler. I used Bullseye without a filler and the results varied wildly. Whoever told you it would give even case mouths has not tried it.
About 25% of my cases formed poorly with uneven mouths, shoulders that had not blown out and wrinkles part way around at the junction of the neck and shoulder.

Forget firing vertically. Use a method that will safely expand the cases with a light charge, a case full of light filler and a wax plug.

Be prepared to keep the chamber free of filler.
Then clean the bore well after fire forming.
 
Posts: 13978 | Location: http://www.tarawaontheweb.org/tarawa2.jpg | Registered: 03 December 2008Reply With Quote
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There is 375 brass around if you look.
 
Posts: 4372 | Location: NE Wisconsin | Registered: 31 March 2007Reply With Quote
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You don't need to load a bullet to fireform .30-30 brass to .375 Winchester.

A small amount of Bullseye and 1/16 (or even 1/32nd) of a single-ply sheet of toilet paper will do the job fine.

Prime, charge, push the TP down into full contact with the powder, chamber, point straight up, and pull the trigger.

(About the same charge of Bullseye as is the minimum load in a .44 Special or .45 Colt is a good place to start. Use more if required. Check the rifle bore between each shot to make sure no paper remains in the bore.)
 
Posts: 9685 | Location: Cave Creek 85331, USA | Registered: 17 August 2001Reply With Quote
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