Quote: I've heard that either Lapua or Norma(maybe both, I don't know) drill their flash holes instead of punching them. Apparently this eliminates the need to do the reaming.
Lapua, Norma and RWS all have drilled flash holes. I understand ALL European bass is this way and it's certainly that way in these. Additionally, in my experience they are much more uniform both as to dry weight and water capacity than most of our domestic brass. I've bought 358 Norma Mag brass from different vendors at different times and have yet to have the cases vary more than �1g from 220g.
I deburr all domestic flash holes.
Posts: 1261 | Location: Placerville, CA, US of A | Registered: 07 January 2001
I recently had a very bad experience with bending my primer decapping punch into a pretzel while trying to resize some brass.
Fortunately I had an extra. I changed it out and - damn - It got ruined on the second case!
I just got a bunch of new brass and am now reaming every one of them. Has nothing to do with consistent ignition, but rather just to NOT screw up any more decapping pins. Really puts a crimp in the reloading process, you know?
Any of you have this problem? Is there an easier solution? My hand is feeling worn out.
I use a flash hole deburring tool on every single rifle case I prepare, and I have for at least the last fifteen years; probably closer to twenty.
If you want consistent ignition, enhanced accuracy (elimination of fliers, especially), more consistent velocities, plus limit mechanical glitches like your bent decapping rod, then a good beburring tool is an important piece of reloading gear, and it's comparatively inexpensive. Another bonus to flash hole deburring is that you only have to debur an individual case one time!
I've tried several brands, and I like the RCBS system best. You can come up with a full selection of pilots, and everything is built well and works the way it should.
I'm another guy who routinely de-burs flash holes & uniforms primer pockets. I don't know if it makes a significant difference but I do know it's something I don't have to be concerned with. Bear in Fairbanks
Posts: 1544 | Location: Fairbanks, Ak., USA | Registered: 16 March 2002
Hey C1PNR, Maybe! I've heard that either Lapua or Norma(maybe both, I don't know) drill their flash holes instead of punching them. Apparently this eliminates the need to do the reaming.
Perhaps someone that has some of those cases could speak up?
...
Meanwhile, I do the reaming, trimming, chamfering, deburring, etc. while watching the old TV when something like Vegas or JAG is on. I've found it best not to do it during a ballgame, or I can get all out of sync.
It may not help a "lot", but I do it too. How else could you have confidence in your Hunting Loads that you did everything possible to make them all exactly alike?
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001
Whether the flash hole had been reamed or not had nothing to do with you bending your primer pin. Either there was no flash hole (possible with today's mechanical handling), it was misaligned (probably not), or your resizing stem or ball was loose (probable). I think that reaming primer pockets and flash holes, like weighing cases, is wasted time that could be spent shooting. I have read all the chicken little BS about drilled (lapua) flash holes and punched flash holes and don't buy into it. Needless to say, a fellow wants to do what makes him feel good but I think folks are building an ideology out of an urban myth.
Posts: 2037 | Location: frametown west virginia usa | Registered: 14 October 2001
I also ream flash holes. It's a one time step that is simple and fast. For me it's just part of the tinkering that I do. Something else that allows me quiet time in my loading area listening to music, watching tv, ect.
It probably dosen't really help with my hunting loads that much but it does give me confidence that I'm doing all I know how to do. In the field confidence can be the differance in making and missing a shot.
Reaming flash holes sure beats washing the dishes!!
Quote: Whether the flash hole had been reamed or not had nothing to do with you bending your primer pin. Either there was no flash hole (possible with today's mechanical handling), it was misaligned (probably not), or your resizing stem or ball was loose (probable).
I agree entirely with this part. IMO, in this context, the only benefit to "deburring" or "reaming" the flash hole will be easing the entry due to the tiny countersink. If the decapping assembly is correctly centered, it should enter freely, whether the flash hole is some exact diameter or not. Reaming/deburring will not correct an off-center flash hole.
Quote: I think that reaming primer pockets and flash holes, like weighing cases, is wasted time that could be spent shooting. I have read all the chicken little BS about drilled (lapua) flash holes and punched flash holes and don't buy into it.
I'm not so sure about this, I think there is a lot of evidence it can help, if your shooting situation calls for the ultimate level of accuracy and your skill level and equipment support it. As far as I know, almost every winning benchrest competitor believes in and uses the technique. I would agree the results would not justify the effort if the rifle will only shoot a 1/4" group anyway. Ditto if you are shooting unsupported.
Quote: Needless to say, a fellow wants to do what makes him feel good but I think folks are building an ideology out of an urban myth.
Anything that instills confidence helps, so they say.
Posts: 588 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 08 April 2003
I do it to all of my match brass, and to the Bertram 450 No2 cases. Sometimes the decapping pin would get stuck in the flashole of the 450 No2 cases. The Sinclair flashole deburing tool solved that problem.
Posts: 16134 | Location: Texas | Registered: 06 April 2002
I've reamed flashholes and quit doing it on Win cases as they don't seem to need it. I do it to R-P and Federal cases. I bumped into Mt. St. Helens in a Fed .300 Win Mag case. Threw the case away, finally.
I just deburr using the lyman tool. The amount of material left over after punching the flash hole can vary significantly from case to case. I took the handle off and use the neck alignment thingy to turn the tool, keeps me from hamfisting it and cutting too deep. I only press lightly, if at all and turn intil the 'grab' feeling from the cutter is gone. Whether it helps or not is debatable, but it gives me just a little more confidence.
irwin
Posts: 108 | Location: not where I was... | Registered: 09 November 2002
Quote: I've reamed flashholes and quit doing it on Win cases as they don't seem to need it. I do it to R-P and Federal cases. I bumped into Mt. St. Helens in a Fed .300 Win Mag case. Threw the case away, finally.
That's interesting! My original problem(s) were with some old R-P 25-20 cases. Great flaps of brass visible from the top. Also have a bunch of 300 Win Mag by R-P too, and know they need help. I don't normally buy R-P brass, but these were won in a raffle at Friends of NRA so I took them home.
Just finished 200 7.62 x 54R (Graf headstamp) that weren't too bad. Then went on to 100 8mm Mauser from Winchester. Almost wore out my hands! They required I hold the brass with a rubber sheet and use another rubber "handle" to turn the trimmer! The WW 300 Savage and 250 Savage weren't too bad again.
I'll watch out for the Federals too. Thanks all for your input.
Anything that instills confidence helps, so they say.
