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Lee Collet Dies, Any Good?
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Picture of Nitroman
posted
I have been looking at these and am wondering if they are a gimmick or do they really do the trick?
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
<DuaneinND>
posted
I have used collet dies for 223, 22-250, 250Sav, and 300win mag., accuracy with loaded ammo seems to be as good as any other die. They can be a pain in the butt if the brass you are reloading has different neck thickness, and therefore require checking the amount of "sizing" when changing from lot to lot of brass, but the fact of no case lube makes up for any "problems". Great for loading high volumes of ammo for prairie dogs, etc.
 
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<Delta Hunter>
posted
I've only tried using it with my 7 Rem Mag and so far I hate it. I cannot get it adjusted properly. The neck tension is either too light or if I screw it down for more neck tension it crumples the shoulder. I'm going to get the Redding S neck die. I've had good luck with these.
 
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Provided you have a chamber reasonably close in tolerances, are using a "non-stretchy" action (read front-locking bolt), and are not attempting to squeeze the last bit of velocity out of your load with excess pressure, the Lee Collet die is the die for you.

To achieve more even and a bit tighter neck sizing, I rotate the case 1/8 turn after the first stroke, then size again. I've had great results with .222, and the lack of lubrication (and more importantly, cleaning up the lubrication) makes the case prep process much more enjoyable.

I would be dubious about using the Collet dies with belted magnums, not because in theory they woundn't work just fine, but because manufacturers are really sloppy in chambering the belted cases, relying on the belt to headspace and leaving god-awful caverns for chambers. ("Boy, my 7 mag shore do chamber slick and ain't hardly never sticky throwin' them shells out".)

[This message has been edited by Stonecreek (edited 06-14-2001).]

 
Posts: 13263 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I have a set that I use for .303 British. They have extended case life quit a bit and the accuracy of the ammo is just as good as any other dies. Not having to lubricate the cases and clean it off is a plus.
 
Posts: 598 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 16 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Buy Redding or RCBS. I am glad I am not the only one who has had trouble with the Collet dies. I either don't get enough tension or I blow the aluminum cap off the top. I am replacing them with a traditional die set ASAP. Sean
 
Posts: 537 | Location: Vermont | Registered: 04 March 2001Reply With Quote
<vssf>
posted
Roger

I have Lee collet dies in 223 and 308 and am very pleased with them.
I initially had problems with one of the dies due to the collet sticking. Once you figure out how the die works fixing it is no problem.
Be aware that the collet should have some free travel at the bottom of the die, i.e. you should be able to lift it up slightly with the end of your finger and it should drop down under its own weight.
The adjustment of the die is carried out after the free movement of the collet has been taken out.
If you don't have sufficient neck tension after exerting about 20 lb on the press handle polish .001 inch off the stem of the decaping rod.
If you don't have any neck tension at all try polishing the tapered bearing surfaces of the collet and die body.

Regards

Ray

 
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<reload>
posted
No, no for game rifles, Target rifles yes, but then buy a good brand like Wilson.
 
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Picture of Nitroman
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Thank you for the replies. I am going to go with Redding Dies, CH 4D bushing neck dies and Forster Seater die.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
<XP-Guy>
posted
Roger I think you made good choices. I use Redding form dies and love them.

I do use a Lee collet die for a 308. I think it works great. It's such a simple design I don't see how it could be misused. I don't understand what on person said about "adjusted properly". I didn't know there were any adjustments. Also, how could the die touch the shoulder of a case. I keep looking at my die and I don't see how that could happen.

As vssf mentioned they can stick sometimes. I lubed mine with die wax, that cured it. The collet and stem control neck tension so well that the only way to change the tension is to alter the die by polishing some metal off. I use only light pressure on the press handle. Pulling on the press handle hard enough to strip the threads on the top cap just makes no sense.

Anyway, Lee collet dies are guaranteed to load the most accurate ammunition or your money back! If you have one you don't like, send it back to Lee.


 
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<vssf>
posted
XP-Guy

I Don't have the instructions infront of me but the adjustment I refere to is the advancing of the die (I think its 2 full turns) once the die has made contact with the top of the shell holder at the top of the stroke.If you have a sticky collet or only advance the die till it touches the collet, then put your 2 turns on. The die will be adjusted incorectly and you will not get sufficient neck tension.(Been there don that,had to push out 50 live primers). The 2 turns on the die body is after all endfloat on the collet has been taken out.

Regards

Ray

 
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<vssf>
posted
XP-Guy

Just noticed the shoulder query. Been there done that to. The shoulder damaged when the collet partialy sticks. Only part of the neck goes into the collet. The decaping rod bottoms out on the aluminium top cap and holds the neck, the next bit of the press cycle forces the shell holder flush with the bottom of the collet where it should have been at the begining of the proces, result neck with big wrinkle in it. Despite my experiences with all the failure modes of the Lee collet die I still rate them highly.

Regards

Ray

 
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<Big Foot 15-4E>
posted
I have Lee Collet Dies for my .338wm and love them. Knock on wood, Ive reloaded approx 400 rounds with them and had absolutely no problems or complaints at all. I dont wish to sound dissrespectfull, but if you follow the directions that come with the collet dies, adjusting them strikes me as rather idiot-proof. I did a side by side comparison of rounds reloaded with my Lee collet dies and my Redding dies with 100 cartrages each and the Lee dies were deffinately capable of producing SLIGHTLY more consistantly accurate ammo, and when combined with the fact I did'nt have to lube them, Im sold on them. The directions state that you should start out by lowering the die only one turn after contact with the shell holder. I wanted to see if this minimum neck sizing would be sufficiant to stop recoil from shoving my bullets back, so I reloaded three dummy rounds and put them in my .338WMs (loaded with 74grns R-22 under a 225grn Innerlok) detachable mag and after 10 rounds thay did not move at all as measured with a Stony Point comparator.
After using Lees Collet dies and Lees case trimmer,(the BEST case trimmer there is IMHO), and primer pocket cleaner, I have a new found respect for Richard Lee.
 
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<vssf>
posted
Big Foot

I assure you the instructions are not idiot proof, I was that idiot. If you advance the die one turn after the die just touches the shell holder the bullets fall into the cases, the end float in the collet must be taken up before the die is advanced. I E mailed Lee and they told me this was the case.

Regards

Ray

 
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Just to support VSSF that the instruction do not make clear about the end float of the collet having to be taken up first.

I like my collet dies and they load very accurate ammunition, however I do have to full length resize every 2 loadings to prevent sticky extraction.

[This message has been edited by 1894 (edited 06-18-2001).]

 
Posts: 2258 | Location: Bristol, England | Registered: 24 April 2001Reply With Quote
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