I've decided to give reloading a try. I'm trying to put together the equipment to start reloading. I have a couple of questions -

1) Is it better to get a "kit" or try to assemble the best of everything? The reason I ask is that one of the guys I shoot at the range with is into benchrest stuff, and has given me a list of a bunch of Redding/Forester Coax/Bonanza stuff, and says to get it - you only pay once and then you have it. Is that how you started? Do competion dies give better accuracy than regular dies? Anyone use the Redding "S" dies?

2) So far I've bought A-Square, Hornady, Swift, Speer, Nosler, Sierra, Hodgedon, and Barnes reloading manuals, and a "How to Reload" book and have been reading all of them before I start. I've learned quite a bit just from reading the reloading manuals. One question I can't seem to find the answer in in manual is this - I've seen people recommend that you can "download" catridges for practice to decrease the recoil but there isn't anything that shows "how much". Is downloading mean starting with the "starting" load? I've read that not using enough powder can lead to pressure spikes - so, I'm leery of just loading without a clue. Is downloading LESS than the starting load? TIA, Jeff

Sounds like you've made a good start by buying so many manuals, and reading them.

As far as kit, or buying individually, I prefer the individual route, provided you know all the parts you want. The advantage of a kit is it gets you all the parts you need to get started, though perhaps not all the best of what will work for you. Everyone develops there own collection of tools bases on what and how they reload.

I don't think starting out with all bench rest equipment is the best route for the average reloader, unless you're involved in BR competition. I do like the Forester co-ax press, and would recomend a Redding or Harrell powder measure.

For dies, start with std die sets, but get Redding, as they are very good dies.

I also highly recomend a 4" dial caliper as opposed to the std 6" most recomend. I've never needed the range of the 6" for reloading, and the 4" is much easier to handle.

As far as downloading, the best book I've seen in regards to that is Lymans cast bullet handbook. The one caveat to using really reduced loads with jacketed bullets is there is the chance that a mild load will cause a jacketed bullet to be stuck in the bore.

It depends. Lee's cheap sets with proper technique will produce better ammo than any equipment used by freddy fumblefingers. Do you plan on shooting benchrest? If so, the list he gave you is only a starting point. If not, some of it is probably overkill.

For downloaded/light recoil, I usually look through the books and find the fastest burning powder commonly listed under a light bullet for whatever caliber you plan to use, and load them 10% below max.

The "pressure spikes" are sometimes referred to as SEE or secondary explosion effect. According to Hodgdon, they have never been able to reproduce the effect in the labratory and it is more likely that the explosion was due to the bullet from the previous shot still lodged in the barrel.

IMO If you want to buy a kit, get the RCBS RC. Spend the rest of your money on bullet,s,powder,and brass. Then if your still interested in reloading in 5 yrs, and want to upgrade sell your used stuff, and buy what you want.I use the Forster press,powder throw, and a Pact pps scale. I use my drill press to trim cases. You can search auctions for some of your stuff as I did and save a little bread. Some reloaders I know own more than 1 press, and others I know have owned a RCBS for 20 years.
Good luck!

Have a closer look in the Speer manual. The latest is No 13. They list 'reduced load' for most rifle calibers usually using IMR SR4759 powder. Stick with the recipes in the loading manuals; there's plenty to choose from.

One way to reduce recoil is to load the lightest weight bullets for that caliber.

Back in '71 when I started handloading ammo there weren't package kits with all the needed components. So I got the bare necessities and added the rest as I could afford them. And because money was scarce I had plenty of time to read what others had to say about whatever was the 'latest and greatest.' I ended up with an eclectic mix of name brands; Ohaus beam scale, RCBS press and dies, Forster trimmer, Lyman caliper, Flambeau powder funnel. All are still usable to this day. But I have graduated to quicker, more user friendly equipment.
If I was to start this hobby today [other than all out brenchrest competition] I would go with the Dillon AT500 press rather than the conventional single stage press. It's got replaceable toolheads that house 4 dies at once--all setup and ready to go. You still load one at a time but if the need arises in the future it's upgradeable to the RL550B progressive. The other change I would make would be to buy Redding full length and seater dies instead of RCBS, and Lee Collet neck sizing dies. The die change alone caused my groups to shrink by half. FWIW

Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate your input. Jeff

The most important component of course is you. Every effort must be made to do things right. In particular when sellecting and charging the powder. When doing this you must pay very close attention.

As to the danger from too light of a charge there that might be from a charge of powder slower than say IMR4046 that is loaded at less than 10% of the max charge. This is called the secondary exlosion effect. There is also a danger from light loads by double charging or not charging at all. Stand up and look down into each case twice with a bright light overhead

I would never use a "progressive" press unless it had full mechanical or electronic controls like the manufacturers use. I have seen too many guns blow up and they were loaded by reloaders on progressive presses.

I would suggest that you purchase the RCBS Master Reloading Kit, the items in it will last a lifetime (or more ), and it is one of the best "start-up" kits around. Just my thoughts...

reloader-1

I am in your shoes, just started reloading about a month ago. I bought the RCBS kit and see no reason to look elsewhere for your tools. It has just about anything you need and, as a rookie, I am making loads that shoot .5" at 100 yrds. The only things I added to the kit were a powder trickler and primer pocket brushes. It was a total of about $20 more. I am very pleased with the tools and the loads I've produced. It's a great hobby to keep you entertained when you're not shooting.

I started off with the RCBS Master Reloader Kit. It included just about everything I needed to get started. I have had two problems with the RCBS equipment (both of my own doing) and they replaced the items immediately, no questions asked. As I purchase more rifles (you need to buy more so you can reload for the various different calibers, thus saving even more money) I have purchased different equipment including Forster and Lee. I think the all inclusive kit is an excellent way to go for someone just starting.

http://www.hodgdon.com/data/youth/index.php

Above is a link to the hodgdon website where they list reduced loads.

Very good questions,better to be safe than sorry.On the topic of down loading,a good rule of thumb is to never load lighter than the given powder charge for a given bullet weight.Reason being you could experience a preasure jump and exceed safe limits.I'ts been my experience if you stick with the load you'l be hunting, or target shooting with, you will become most comfortable,there for the rewards are acuracy pure and simple. And after all that's what we are all after. Equipment Big selection,all most boggles the mind.Every body has ther own pet items, You can mix and match,or just purchase the many good beginer kit's available.The kit's are usualy less expensive and easy to ad too.good luck ,gray beard.

I agree with starting out with the RCBS Master Kit. Everything in it will give you a very good start on this fun hobby. Who knows, for what you want to get out of reloading, this kit may be all you'll ever need. As you learn more, you MAY develop a greater interest in the details, but I don't think there's a need at this point to spend hundreds more on competition level components. Develop the interest and knowledge, and then go from there. Heck, you may even hate doing it. I doubt it though...