Ok...here's my set-up...
1911 built by Cylinder & Slide
Lee Pro 1000 loader (w/ carbide dies)

Here's my problem:
I can't for the life of me get the seating depth/crimp adjusted properly w/o problems. It seems like the bullet is trying to jam into the lands. I'm sure I'm crimping enough (I know this can be an issue) b/c I measured the factory rounds I've got @ .468" at the mouth, and mine are just a hair under that. I can get it where it will chamber all the way w/ a bit of pressure (and would definitely chamber w/ the slide forcing it in), but I figured it would be better if it would drop right in (as the factory rounds I checked do). I thought I had everything adjusted right, but then I started getting bulged cases when I seat/crimp (and won't chamber b/c of that).

I'm loading 230 gr RN Laser Cast (.452 diameter)

45 ACP should not be roll crimped. If you must crimp use a taper crimp and only enough to hold the bullet tight and still maintain headspace. Bullet seating and crimping should be done in two seperate steps. Otherwise you'll bulge the cases, as you have found.

Ray

It does sound as if you are ove crimping if you are bulging the case. I seat & crimp in seperate steps. You can do it in the same step but you'll likely shave the bullet some. Try backing out your seating die a bit to where the case mouth bell is just turned in.

Taper crimping is always a separate step, so, if you are seating and crimping in the same step you are roll crimping. You may not need to crimp at all. The seating die will narrow the case mouth down. Try just seating the bullet and then chambering it. For my bullseye loads I do not crimp. For stiffer loads, I do. The other possibility is that the brass is too long (stretched) and that is affecting the chambering. Try chambering an empty case.
Peter.

I don't have a problem, per se, with my .45 loads. More of a question.

I have RCBS carbide dies with a taper crimp seating die. Some of you have said that seating and crimping should be two seperate steps. I can see why that would be beneficial, and I can also see how that would help me in my loads.

The question is: How do you keep from screwing the seating die all up adjusting to crimp and not seat every other time, then back to seating and not crimping? Do you guys purchase and use seperate dies for this? I like to set my dies and forget about them, once I've found a good load...

The RCBS die set I bought for the 45 ACP came originally with a roll crimp die. I purchased an additional taper crimp die and use the roll crimp die solely for bullet seating, so yes, I do it in two steps with two dies.

Alternatively, there is the Lee Factory Crimp carbide die which crimps and resizes the whole cartridge at the same with an aim to guarantee that the overall cartridge dimensions will meet specs. Here's a link.

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1182...log/dies-pistol.html

I use the Lee Factory Crimp die on my 400 CorBon, it's the only way to go with a bottleneck pistol case unless you want shoulder bulge and a weak crimp.

I do have a Lee FCD for .223 and I like it.
But, Would the Lee be a true taper crimp for the .45, or would it matter since the Lee works a bit differently?

CharlieHo, I think the Lee Factory Crimp carbide pistol dies are slightly different from the rifle dies, which I also use. The rifle dies don't post-resize the entire cartridge, they just crimp. On my 400 CorBon it is not a taper crimp but a lateral crimp, same as the rifle dies. A taper crimp tends to push down on the neck and can result in shoulder bulge.

i have the lee factory crimp die for 45 acp. have no problem with crimp or feeding, use 185 lead semi wadcutter, have a colt MkIV

quote:

I can't for the life of me get the seating depth/crimp adjusted properly w/o problems

Check to insure you have a taper crimp die, if so adjust it this way.
Back off a couple turns on the die body and seating stem.
With a case in the shell holder, and the ram at the top, screw it down until you feel it contact the case.
Back the die body off 1/8-1/2 turn and adjust the seater to seat a bullet to the desired OAL.
Back the seater off a turn or two, and adjust the die body down until you get a proper crimp on the seated bullet. All you really need is enought to take the flare from the case mouth with the 45acp.
Once the crimp is adjusted lock the body lock ring and screw the seater down to contact the bullet with the ram still at the top of its travel.
Check and adjust the seater to insure the oal is where you want it and lock the seating stem.

quote:

It seems like the bullet is trying to jam into the lands. I'm sure I'm crimping enough (I know this can be an issue) b/c I measured the factory rounds I've got @ .468" at the mouth, and mine are just a hair under that. I can get it where it will chamber all the way w/ a bit of pressure (and would definitely chamber w/ the slide forcing it in), but I figured it would be better if it would drop right in (as the factory rounds I checked do).

If the COL of your ammo is too long for the chamber you can have the bullet hit the rifleing and be pushed deeper in the case. This may bulge the case and prevent the cartridge from feeding.

Color your bullet with magic marker at the point it reaches full diameter and try dropping it in the chamber of your pistol with the barrel removed from the pistol. The cartridge should fall in the chamber easily and seat with the rim even with, or just below the chamber hood. If it doesn`t, check the bullet for rifling marks in the ink. If they show, seat deeper until the bullet chambers properly, and the ink shows no contact.

You don`t give the COL you are seating your bullet to, but I`ve found some need to be seated quite short in my Kimber even though they are of the same general nose shape. Be sure to start your load development low and work up if the bullet needs to be seated deeper then recomended in the data you are useing. The change MIGHT change the pressures and you don`t want to start with a max load and a deep seated bullet. Most manufactures will give a OAL with their data that is short enough to fit all SAAMI chambers with their bullet. The problem comes when useing other makers bullets. They may or may not have the same geometery even though they appear the same. A call to the maker should get you a COL that will chamber in your pistol if you have questions about it.

quote:

Originally posted by Catfish Hunter:
Ok...here's my set-up...
1911 built by Cylinder & Slide
Lee Pro 1000 loader (w/ carbide dies)

Here's my problem:
I can't for the life of me get the seating depth/crimp adjusted properly w/o problems. It seems like the bullet is trying to jam into the lands. I'm sure I'm crimping enough (I know this can be an issue) b/c I measured the factory rounds I've got @ .468" at the mouth, and mine are just a hair under that. I can get it where it will chamber all the way w/ a bit of pressure (and would definitely chamber w/ the slide forcing it in), but I figured it would be better if it would drop right in (as the factory rounds I checked do). I thought I had everything adjusted right, but then I started getting bulged cases when I seat/crimp (and won't chamber b/c of that).

I'm loading 230 gr RN Laser Cast (.452 diameter)

Just take the bell out of the case when crimping, taper or roll crimps. You may need to seat the bullet a little deeper.

catfish I had the same problem when trying to seat & crimp in one operation so I seat then crimp seperatly.