Hornady Annealing System

Pretty much just 3 tools and temp sensor.

I haven't seen this. Thanks for posting
on it.

This looks like the perfect annealing set-up
(for me anyway). Temperature control and
spinners. Don't need anything else.

I will be picking one up on my next Midway order.

dxr

Doc, yes I use that system. I like the cartridge holders, they are very practical and worth the price of the kit on their own.

I'm not too keen on the Tempilaq stuff, though. It seems to be more easily visible (melting point) than the temperature crayons I have tried to use, so that is a positive. On the down side, the Tempilaq leaves a residue on the case even after melting. Sadly, this is darn hard to get rid of (tumbling does not seem to get totally rid of it), and you are often faced with polishing your cases with steel wool after you are done annealing. So,,, I'm kind of in two minds about the Tempilaq...

A member here suggested using Tempilaq in the following fashion: use Tempilaq on a number of cases (10-20, say) and time how long it takes for the laquer to melt. That will then be the time to anneal cases without Tempilaq.... Practical? I don't know, I have not tried it out.

- mike

Doc,

Thanks for the posting. I didn't know that existed.
I've been annealing cases the old fashion way, with a propane toarch and cases sitting in a cake pan with water covering half the cases; then tipping the heated case over in the water to quench.

Don

You will find that after annealing a few cases using the Tempilaq, that you don't need it for the rest of the batch...you can tell when the case gets to the right temp from time in the flame and the looks\color of the case neck. I've had my kit for years and am still using the original bottle of temp indicating liquid.

I won't argue with what ever one wants to use as it's their own business .

A shallow SS pan with about 1.5 - 2 " of water in it . It Works real nice with a ball bearing lazy Susan wheel under it, so it can be turned .

Or you can do one at a time with out it .

A steady rest ( a block of wood or what ever ) in which to rest the torch in . ( Nice if it's height adjustable for different cases ). Set cases in a some what evenly spaced circle not to close together though .

I used to use my free hand fingers to grasp the cases down in the water and twist the case as it heated ( much better heating pattern was achieved ) by doing that . Least wise for me .

Now in a Dim light ( Doesn't need to be pitch black or so dark you can't see where you are ! )Light the torch move it so the Heat portion of the flame ( Coned Blue ) just touches the case neck ( I used to Aim for the top 1/4 of case neck ) Now heat until the tip of neck turns red .
At this time Note what color the shoulder is turning hopefully Orange , if not move the flame down slightly on the neck .

Some people use a drill press , portable drill in a vice to spin the case .

With a little practice which ever method you choose you'll be a pro in no time . Low volume annealing is real easy , seriously !.

I took a Factory case and used it as an example for the heat pattern from annealing , so I would be some what assured I was doing it correctly .

So I maybe screwed up 4-6 cases until I realized I was COOKING the Brass !.

Way Back 25 Years ago ( When I started annealing cases ) I loaded 15 years before I even annealed a single case !. I'd shoot cases until they split then toss em and use new ones .

Good Luck which ever road you choose . I don't like anything on the cases when I anneal as someone has already posted it's a pain to remove cooked material !. Your Eyes and or Time is best indicator !!.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

What kind of torch is used. Propane, MAPP?

I have never done it myself because I don't have the equipment but an old timer that taught me to reload many years ago (God rest his soul) annealed his by getting his casting pot hot and holding the cases in the lead till the heat got to his fingers and then he would drop them in a pan of water. He said that kept him from getting them too hot because he could feel the heat.
I guess it worked.

I guess what is not clear to me yet, is why do we need to quench annealed cases in water? These "annealing" wheels don't dump them in water, they heat the neck and drop into a container.

I've not seen a reason for the water yet.

Why do some systems advise tipping them over into water and other annealing mechanisms do not?

I'm thinking about trying this Hornady kit....grab a small blow torch and my drill, rotate them in the flame for 6 seconds (seems to be the right amount of time, depending on case/caliber) and drop them in a bin.

Good thing is I have about 150 old cases I can practice with, that I have no intention of reusing.

Doc ; It's to prevent the case head and body from overheating as you DON'T want them softened !.

Water isn't required , it's just an insurance thing . if you choose to spin in a drill press or portable drill in a vice you don't use water .

Except to drop the cases into , I like the water bucket as it doesn't ding the case necks up . Remember your softening them so dropping them on each other is kind of counter productive if they're dinged up .

Or if you prefer letting them stand is OK to , I had one fall over and lit a paper on fire once , so I used the water bucket method from then on .

Yes A lead pot dip would work as the Lead melts at 327.46°C (621.43°F), boils at 1749°C (3180°F), and has a specific gravity of 11.35; the atomic weight of lead is 207.2.

Make sure Lead is Bullet lead as it's altered with antimony or tin and melts at a little higher Temp .

Either torch will work MAPP is hotter so faster , Don't use an Oxyacetylene torch !!.

You can use something like this or a Hand bottle model .

http://www.doityourself.com/invt/5972617

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&pro...17-PK1001&lpage=none


[URL=http://www.professionalequipment.com/torch/

TurboTorch I used one of these , " Because I Had It " it soldered many many custom homes copper piping together , before it ever saw annealing duty .



Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

I believe the Bernzomatic was the brand recommended in the turntable annealers.

Hornady told me that after using their annealing system, water was not necessary, only used for safety b/c the cases are hot.

I was advised to anneal my 7mm/300 RUM cases after they were necked down to .277 and fireformed once. Also, to anneal Lapua .06 cases after they were necked down to .277 and fired once. Then, they can be annealed when bullet seating is no longer the same per case, i.e., when some cases do not accept the bullet easily.

The golden, unwritten rule is to anneal about every 3-6 firings, maybe more, but my brass will "tell me" when.

And finally, and incidently, brass stamped "Frontier" may or may not be manufactured by Hornady, while brass stamped "Hornady" is made by Hornady.

quote:

Originally posted by doctorxring:
I haven't seen this. Thanks for posting
on it.

This looks like the perfect annealing set-up
(for me anyway). Temperature control and
spinners. Don't need anything else.

I will be picking one up on my next Midway order.

dxr

Well, just so you know, midsouthshooterssupply.com MAY start selling this product and 95% of the time, they are cheaper than midwayusa.

They are to call me with a price today or by Monday.

I rarely order from midway anymore as their prices have gone up substantially as well as their shipping.

I'll use them but typically as a last resort.

I forgot to mention if one uses a plumbers torch set up , Some come with a semi U bend back flame thingie . It's for keeping heat on the back side of a sweat joint when soldering copper tube .

These tend to be large enough to use when sweating 1/4-2" copper tubbing .

Just be careful if you leave it on while doing cartridge cases especially with MAPP Gas !. It has a tendency to Heat REAL QUICK and just maybe a wider pattern than you would like !!.

Annealing into infinity and beyond !. Buzz Light Year !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

quote:

Originally posted by Doc:
...Why do some systems advise tipping them over into water and other annealing mechanisms do not? ...

It keeps the Case Head from becoming too soft if the Flame Temperature is too Low - thus softening the entire Case (including the Case Head) before you see the Red, if it is not in water.

You can burn your fingers on short Cases when using the Hand-Held Method before the Case Mouth gets Red if the Flame temperature is too low.

The bernzomatic torches are available at walmart in a kit, $19.99.

I am surprised a simple propane bottle will do the job. How high is the temperature of your garden variety Bernzomatic?

MAPP can obviously be used but propane is better because the heat is lower, more easily controlled and the brass temp better observed.

Heating brass necks red is much too high a temp, it makes the brass dead soft, without much "spring back" to provide bullet tension.