How do you guys mark re-sized cases for identity purposes?

A few years ago, I started loading .32 Remington ammo formed from .30 Remington brass. Easy, one-pass operation. Problem is, I also have a .30 Remington, and the danger exists that I could get loaded ammo mixed up (I defy you to look at a .32 Remington and tell me if it's .30 or .32 without a side by side comparison.)

To fix this, I simply started dyeing the headstamp area on re-sized brass with a red sharpie. I was amazed at how resilient the ink is once dry. Though diminished, you can still see the red ink, even after two or three firing/reloading cycles. When it gets dim, I just hit it again with the sharpie.

I bring this up because I am about to embark on a project to re-size .308 brass to .358 Winchester, and again, I have both calibers. Even though there is little danger of mixing up loaded ammo (loaded .358 cases are obviously not .308 Win - at least to a sober man!), I want a good system to quickly identify the ammo, should they somehow get mixed together (Earthquake, sonic boom, comet strike, Michael Bloomberg getting elected president, or some other natural disaster).

So how do you guys mark brass re-sized to a caliber different from the headstamp?

I did the same as you when opening up 30/06 to 8mm/06. I also went a bit further by using a small burr in my Dremel to grind off the 30 in the 30/06 stamp as extra insurance.

I have a lot of brass that has been formed from one caliber to another. In most cases (bad pun) I can use US military headstamp brass that has no caliber headstamp. Then I have to depend on the container marking to tell the difference between 7.65 Mauser, 8X57, .358, 9X57 or 35 Whelen.

I also have 308 and 358. But I dont worry too much about mixing them as once loaded it is pretty obvious. I also shoot 260 Rem, so I try to use 243 Win brass (which I do not shoot) to form 260 Rem. It seems far more available then 260 brass.

One thing you might consider is loading with easily discernable bullets. For instance Bt's in the 308 and RN's in the 358. It would be pretty hard to mix those up.

Most are pretty obvious; keep them in separate ammo boxes. I would not recommend grinding on the head of a case because someone will take that idea to the extreme and, well, cause bad things to happen.
I sometimes use markers on the primers to designate different loads. Different colors. So dying the heads is a good idea and will last a few loadings.

I have several wildcats based on the 280 Rem case. I just keep them is well marked boxes and never have two open boxes at once.

To keep certain people from poaching my brass at matches I started marking my brass with colored markers around the case about half way between the shoulder and head. Makes it real easy to spot on the ground or in someone else's pile.
Stays on for several loadings and even tumbling.

I made a Dremel cut on my 12.7x44R amade from .348Win because we were many with that fad at the time and i always went up missing brass.



I load 30-30 cases in three calibers and did the following:
30-30 nothing at all
8.15x46R nothing at all because they're so different from the original 30-30
32-40 i made a small cut in the case base using my lathe.

Sharpies are your friend.
I also mark my reloaded cases with a center punch mark. This way after shooting and resizing/cleaning I know how many times I have reloaded the cases. Each time gets a dot.