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<Mads>
posted
How do you clean your barrel?
what solvent do you recomment?

Mads

 
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<KING>
posted
I use Shooter's Choice, my preference. Removes copper. Run a patch w/SC through bore turn rifle upside down overnight. Run bronze brush through then a patch w/SC again. Then several dry patches. Run another patch w/SC through the bore, leave overnight then run another patch or two through. If any GREEN/BLUE comes out it's copper. Continue until no more GREEN/BLUE comes out. My way of cleaning my be flawed but seems to work.
 
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I still use Hoppe's #9. If I want to remove copper ina hurry, I use a homemade foul-out. Takes about 20 minutes.

Eddie

 
Posts: 158 | Registered: 28 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Tetra Gun Bore Cleaner and/or Bore Tech are REALLY fast at getting the copper out. They also contain a ton of ammonia, so, keep a window open. Barnes CR10 and Sweets 7.62 are fast, too, but not as fast as the first two mentioned. None of the ammonia based solvents can be left in the bore for too long, or they'll cause rusting or pitting, or so I've heard.

Shooter's Choice works well, if you have time to leave it in the bore overnite as KING noted, as does Birchwood Casey's Bore Cleaner.

If the gun's a known fouler, or, if I can see copper in there, I'll usually hit the bore with either Tetra Gun or Bore Tech, clean that out good, then stick a B-C patch in there overnite (Shooter's Choice has such a petroleum smell it kinds of makes me queasy), and follow up the next day with some JB Bore Cleaner paste.

R-WEST

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"the spotlight of truth will cause the cockroaches of deceit to run for cover every time"
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[This message has been edited by R-WEST (edited 05-09-2002).]

 
Posts: 1483 | Location: Windber, PA | Registered: 24 January 2001Reply With Quote
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First good old #9, followed by Sweet's, followed by Shooter's Choice, and once more with #9.

Finish with a very lightly oiled patch.

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http://stevespages.com/page8.htm

 
Posts: 3282 | Location: Saint Marie, Montana | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Some years back after acquiring a borescope, I tested all the bore cleaners I could get my hands on checking bores after each step. Something tells me Saeed did something similar here. Anyway, the only one I didn't check at that time was Butch's which was just about to be invented. Off and on I had used about everything available, including Outer's Foul Out. I learned that neither Hoppe's nor Shooter's Choice will get the copper out. An Outer's is too much of a hassle and takes too long.

After all that experimenting I concluded one way to insure a squeaky clean barrel within a minumum of time and exertion, was to get out the carbon first with a mixture of Shooter's Choice and Kroil. Two patches with that. Then, following the directions carefully, JB bore cleaner, 10 trips first, reverse the patch, and 10 more. A clean patch wrapped around a worn out bore brush with a bit of Kroil, 10 trips, reverse and 10 more. One clean patch on a jag with a tiny bit of Kroil, or your favorite bore oil and you're done.

Sweet's and CR10 took about equal time between them, but with the wait for the stuff to act it takes forever to get the copper out. I found that in the same barrels as with the JB, I'd have to treat the bore 2 or 3 times to remove all copper. Too much time and effort.

Last year I was shooting one gun several times a week on an experiment (338WSM) and had little time to clean adequately being more concerned with loads and load development. I hadn't used the Butch's Bore Shine, which I got right after that initial experiment. I also didn't have time to borescope the barrel. I opted to clean with Butch's first removing the carbon with Shooter's and Kroil. I put the Butch's on a nylon bore brush with about 10 trips, adding solvent at the muzzlle on the 5th trip. I let it sit while loading, sometimes 15 minutes, sometimes a couple of hours. Then remove the residue with a couple of dry patches, and another clean patch on a jag with Butch's. If no color, a patch with Kroil and back to the range. At the conclusion of about 400 rounds I expected a totally coppered up bore. I cleaned that barrel as above, time about 5 minutes, dried it and checked. Surprise! Not one speck of copper!! To say I was impressed was putting it mildly. I never put a bronze brush through the bore, only jags, patches and a nylon brush. It's been by far the best and fastest method I've ever encountered.

I believe all the cleaners and methods work. Instructions from the manufacturer must be followed. You can't apply Hoppe's instructions to JB, or JB's to Iosso, nor to Sweet's or CR10. The guys that make the stuff know how it works best. It's just a matter of finding a system that works for one person's comfort. I'm lazy. I'll take this method with Butch's.

[This message has been edited by Bob338 (edited 05-09-2002).]

 
Posts: 1261 | Location: Placerville, CA, US of A | Registered: 07 January 2001Reply With Quote
<Mike M>
posted
A mixture of 75% Shooters Choice and 25% Kroil. I don't use the amonia based solvents unless the barrel is copper fouled to the point that accuracy is affected.
 
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I use GM top engine cleaner mixed with Kroil. Also use Sweets for the copper. Every other pass thru the bore with a brush i will use choke cleaner on the brush. Well good luck!
Tom

 
Posts: 1098 | Location: usa | Registered: 16 March 2001Reply With Quote
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used :Sweet's 7.62 worked good.
Found JB worked better
Use now: "Wipe out" ,it's the best
just fill the barrel with
foam let it sit for 10 min
wipe with dry patch done.

Regards Martin

 
Posts: 328 | Location: Alberta Canada | Registered: 25 June 2001Reply With Quote
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Mads, if you would have asked this a month ago I would have readily replied "Butch's Bore Shine". But now, I am not so sure.

I bought some stuff called Montana X-treme from Sinclair International and I am flat impressed.

Anytime I can clean a rifle bore without resorting to bronze brushes and with less effort I am going to be happy. With both, Butch's and Montana X-Treme I can quite often get a bore clean with just a few patches and maybe a half hour of time.

I like to swab them with wet patches several times then let them sit 5 to 10 minutes. Then do it again, this time trying to sort of "scrub" the barrel with the swab. Then I let it soak a little longer. Often a few of these sessions is all it takes. Sometimes I will need to resort to brushing, but often times I do not need to. Both of these products are OK to leave in a barrel and let it soak a while. On really dirty barrels I have left both of those solvents soaking overnight with good effect.

A guy brought over a 6 X 284 Winchester that he had not cleaned in over a year. I really had to scrub that one with several brushes, but MAN did I get a lot of stuff out of it with the Montana X-treme!! (Had to soak that one overnight)

Anyway, I feel these are the best two solvents out there. Having said that, if a barrel is REALLY coppered up, there is nothing like some Barnes CR-10 and some nylon brushes.

R F

 
Posts: 1220 | Location: Hanford, CA, USA | Registered: 12 November 2000Reply With Quote
<KTS>
posted
http://www.mp7.com/
MPro-7 Fast, Effective. Once your bbl is conditioned you will use nothing else, it is just to easy.

Wes

 
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<.>
posted
Ammonia shouldn't harm gun-steel, but it IS hard on bluing. You don't want ammonia based cleaners sitting on your blue finish.

Ammonia will cut coppering, and it neutralizes the corrosive salts in corrosive primers. With ol' Turk Mauser ammo I swab the bore with ammonia dilute 1 part to 3 parts water. This cuts coppering and neutralizes the corrosive primer salt.

But I run a dry patch and then an oiled patch to prevent rust. I like TetraLube as an "oil."

Tetra Bore Cleaner seems to work for me. Lots and lots of ammonia in it. But I'm always shopping for a better way to clean a bore.

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<eldeguello>
posted
I use Shooter's Choice for cleaning, and Hoppe's No. 9 for rust-proofing & its' SWEET SMELL!!
 
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<Mudruck>
posted
The absolute best copper and powder solvent Ive found is the ProShot Copper Solvent IV I got from shootersoasis.com. Ive used it on the 22-250 and my old military stuff. Worked wonders.

Mudruck

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"Our Country won't go on forever, if we stay soft as we are now. There won't be any America - because some foreign soldiery will invade us and take our women and breed a hardier race!" - CHESTY PULLER, USMC
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Utah Varminters Association http://www.armscenter.com/uva

 
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<roybaddy>
posted
The guys at Sierra bullets have had some bad experiences with ammonia based cleaners. I spoke with Carrol Pilant a few years back and he told me that Kevin Thomas the senior ballistician felt that Sweets was responsible for pitting several test barrels. Rich Macholz another one of the "Tech Reps" on the 800 line reflected the same information. He said that he felt that stainless barrels were even easier to pit than carbon steel using heavy ammonia cleaners. Both of these guys told me that they were using "straight" from the bottle cleaners, not a "Witches Brew" of several cleaners mixed together.

I went through all the phases you can go through. At one time I was cleaning with top engine cleaner first, then an ammonia base cleaner, brushing my heart out, then a follow up with JB. Along the way I bought every new "whatzit" that some guru said was the greatest.

I bought a borescope from Bald Eagle a while back just to see what was taking place on the "inside". A friend was helping me set up the scope, and gave me a can of the latest wonder cleaner he had discovered. That was my first experience with Wipeout. Let me say that for me it made more sense than any other method of cleaning. No brushing (longer barrel and throat life) No ACID, NO AMMONIA (for sure no pitting) Now all I push through a barrel is a cotton patch. It finally dawned on me that this method is safe, inexpensive, and relaible. The bore scope says so. Guess what I don't miss all the brushing, or the smell or having to remember just which one of the bottles to use next.

If you need something to do to keep you away from the wife and kids, use three , four or five of those other cleaners. If you ruin your arm or a barrel, so what!

But if you have other things to do, and still want dead clean barrels, use Wipeout. The difference is amazing, I actually enjoy cleaning my guns. What is that line on T.V. "You deserve a break today". You can find out a lot more on the web site www.sharpshoor.com

 
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<Reloader66>
posted
Shooters Choice wins this cleaning race. Shooters Choice can be left in the bore and not harm it. Many gun bore cleaners now on the market will damage the bore if left in to long. Best copper solvent is Tetra Copper Solve. Tetra desolves copper fouling and and will not harm your bore.
 
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<rifleman13>
posted
s

[This message has been edited by rifleman13 (edited 05-13-2002).]

[This message has been edited by rifleman13 (edited 05-13-2002).]

 
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*WipeOut*
 
Posts: 268 | Location: God's Country, East Tex. USA | Registered: 08 February 2002Reply With Quote
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I still use the old Hoppes #9 with nitro benzene. I use it because I like the smell and because I always have. I haven't felt any real need to change yet. I may be a bit of a dinosaur in some respects. Regards, Bill.
 
Posts: 3836 | Location: Elko, B.C. Canada | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I now use Wipe Out from Paul Co. exclusively. Spray it in the barrel (it foams to fill the barrel), let it sit for 10 minutes and run a dry patch through the barrel. No scrubbing, brushing, etc.. It is actually that easy. It is also non toxic and doesn't smell up the joint. Now I just need to give away the other 15 or so bore cleaners I have sitting around.

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"If it ain't a 45/70, it's just a passing fad"

 
Posts: 487 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 07 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Pardon me but a lot of this seems very varmint or range day based. How about those of us who shoot about 3-4shots a week mostly on different days?

I wipe throught with Kroil to get rid of the black and a proprietry gun oil to store. Every half box (10 rounds) I leave Hoppes no9 in overnight. This seems to keep everything manageable. The 222 doesn't seem to ever foul so it gets the Hoppes every 2 boxes

 
Posts: 2258 | Location: Bristol, England | Registered: 24 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Dave Jenkins
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I'm with Bait....Wipe Out is the bombdiggidy. No smell no scrubbing...now I can spend less time cleaning and more time shooting.
DJ
 
Posts: 569 | Location: VA, USA | Registered: 22 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Russell E. Taylor
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WHERE THE HELL IS THERE SOME ONLINE INFORMATION ON THIS WIPE-OUT STUFF?????????

I've searched for "wipe out," "wipeout," "wipe-out," including variations of "Paul Co." and "Paul Company." I found ONE dead page for www.paulcompany.com, and that was it. I found ONE place selling "Wipe-Out" from "Paul Co."

What is it, some "secret" product???

Russ

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"Out here, 'due process' is a bullet!" -- John Wayne, "The Green Berets"

 
Posts: 2982 | Location: Silvis, IL | Registered: 12 May 2001Reply With Quote
<bigcountry>
posted
 
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quote:
Originally posted by bigcountry:
http://www.paulcousa.com./

THANK YOU!!!

Russ

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"Out here, 'due process' is a bullet!" -- John Wayne, "The Green Berets"

 
Posts: 2982 | Location: Silvis, IL | Registered: 12 May 2001Reply With Quote
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I hear it's mostly spit!
 
Posts: 1946 | Location: Michigun | Registered: 23 May 2002Reply With Quote
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It is! LOL, I remember that thread too. But W-O is spit from a rabid dog...so it has foam/scrubbing bubbles that really work on copper.
 
Posts: 569 | Location: VA, USA | Registered: 22 January 2002Reply With Quote
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