Okay, I'm a new reloader and am working on my first round of reloading. I do not have anyone at my side for directions or help. I have succesfully lubed, sized and decapped my brass. I changed from the RCBS sizing die to the bullet seating die. I've taken all my measurements and believe I am set up to seat the Hornady 400 Gr soft point with cannelure to the proper depth. However, my instruction sheet says that there are some calibers that the bullet should not be crimped and then goes to give procedures for bullet seating without crimping and bullet seating with crimping. Which do I want? Will this change when I switch to Barnes bannded solids and Barnes Triple Shock X bullets?

My experience crimping the 416 Rigby is a history of pain. First, the bullet should be seated to the depth corresponding to the crimping groove on the bullet, I personally put the lip of the case to the top of the crimping groove. Obviously this is unnecessary if their is no crimping groove.

Here is the bad news: I have never been able to roll-crimp the 416 Rigby without getting some, however slight, deformation of the shoulder. The solution is a factory crimp from Lee. You will have to send them a dummy cartridge as it is a special order item. I believe it is the only solution.

The real complaint with Hornady and Nosler bullets for the rigby is that the crimping groove is in the wrong place (it's setup for the 416Rem).
Woodleigh does offer there 416 bullets with choice of crimping locations (they have a different # for the rigby and rem bullets)

IMO the best way to crimp the 416 Rigby is to send a $25 check, a 416R case with bullet seated to OAL..no primer or powder to Lee Precision. Have them make you a factory crimp die...mine took about 3-4 weeks to get.

Other option: Two operation crimp with your dies: Buy a 7/8" flat washer. Set your seating die up so that it comes in contact or close to contact with the shell holder..that is where the die will crimp...When you go to seat the bullet (which you obviously do before crimping) put the 7/8" washer between die and press that way you should not crimp but seat the bullet. Adjust seating stem to OAL you want...

Before you go to crimp take off the washer and back out the seating stem so it will not contact the bullet when you go to crimp...

This may all take some trial and error but outside of purchasing the Lee Factory Crimp Die...it is the best way I know of...

SBT,

Forgot to add...

I have not used the Hornady Bullets...just the Barnes TSX and North Forks and I crimp all my 416 Rigby stuff...but with different bullet you may have to crimp at different lengths...This is where the Lee Factory crimp die will be helpful to you as it is much easier to adjust than your seating die and in general the crimp will be more consistent, etc..

Perhaps none of us have really answered your question. Yes, you should crimp bullets in the .416 Rigby if there is a crimping groove in the bullet. If you choose to use bullets with no crimping groove then the only answer to adding more than just neck tension is a Lee Factory Crimp which will allow some crimp on the bullet (slightly deforming the bullet in the process).

Thank you gentlemen, you have been most helpful.

I just crimp them with the die...the secret is to use very little crimp it doesn't need much at all...

I also turn about .003 to .004 off the resizer button in a lathe or by hand in a drill press with a file, as that button is usually oversize and I want that bullet very snug..then its a good idea to use a powder the comes to the neck shoulder junction or may half way up the neck, just a tad of crush is very good, too much crush can cause compaction, you don't want that..........

All this is for my hunting loads for the most part, but its a good practice on eveything where its dooable. Big bores under certain circumstances will set a bullet and in some cases it will knock one into the case...

As an added note you may want to invest in a file trim die...they are much more accurate and locate the crimp more accurately because all cases are the same...sometimes using a rotory trimmer makes one set his crimp too hard to catch the lip and then you get bulged cases that will not chamber....All this stuff is important on rifles used for dangerous game, be sure its right before you look old Mbogo in the eye....good luck.

Ray,
I will bow in advance to your experience but tell me how the rotary trimmer causes one to set the crimp too tight (with resulting case bulge)? I can understand if you have varying case lengths and make the mistake of setting your crimp die on the shortest case you will bulge the longer cases, but what does this have to do with rotary trimmers? An added comment, in France I can only obtain Vihta (I use N 165) and Vectan (I use Tubal 8000) and neither will allow me to fill the case beyond the shoulder, or just into the neck, of a Norma 416 Rigby case unless I am loading for way above 2400 fps with a 400 grain bullet. Perhaps US powders allow this?