Hey guys,

Just got a new custom rifle built on a Rem 700 action in 7mm WSM. 24" #5 match grade barrel, and have been to the range to break it in before doing some serious load workup for it. Starting rounds are new factory brass, 140 gr remington bullets (the cheapest ones I could get, I'll use others for load work-up) and 64.5 gr Re 19 (a mid-range charge from what I can tell from reloading data on the web)... Problem is I'm having significantly more powder and copper fouling than I would have expected, almost like I'm not completely burning the whole charge in the round cleanly.

Cleaning process has been 2 patches soaked in Hoppe's No 9 wrapped around a bronze brush, then 2 dry patches around a brush (does a great job of getting all the powder fouling out- and there's a lot, but no granules seen on the patches). Next I need 7 or 8 patches on a pierce-type jag soaked with Sweets to get the bulk of the copper out, but there's still a little visible copper seen along the grooves when looking down the muzzle despite the patches eventually coming out clean.

I've done this now 16 times and haven't seen a significantly appreciable decrease in copper deposition and my poor arm's getting worn out. Last rifle I broke in was over 10 years ago and I don't remember it being this bad.

Questions:
How much longer should I continue this process?
Should I be concerned about seeing a little copper in the barrel when looking down the muzzle?
Powder fouling seems excessive as well- Should I just switch to imr 4831 or a slightly faster burning powder? (I plan to use 140 grainers for load development and deer)

Thanks for any advice!

You need some wipe-out... it'll take care of the copper and your elbow.

Whenever I get a new rifle, prior to shooting, I use bronze brush (never stainless steel) one caliber smaller wrapped with patch smeared with a good amount of USP (or JB) bore paste on it and give it about 100 strokes, changing patches smeared with bore paste every 20 strokes or so. Clean thoroughly afterward to get all the paste out. This tends to smooth-up/polish the bore just a wee bit and makes cleaning easier on most barrels. Break-in as normal.

I do the same when I acuire a used gun, but I run a couple of patches dripping with Kroil and let the barrel "soak" a couple of days prior to bore pasting the barrel.

For normal cleaning I use 2 patches soaked with Butch's Bore Shine, then scrub with bronze brush about 20 strokes or so and let sit for 5-10 minutes. Wet patch again, let sit 5-10 minutes, followed by a dry patch. Alternate as necessary until no fouling shows on dry patch. I follow up with FP10 to lightly oil the barrel between usage. I use Sweets about every 200 rounds or so just to keep the copper in check.

Light streaks of copper don't bother me too much after cleaning with Sweets, I figure it's just burnished in. Always use a bore/chamber guide.

I haven't used Wipe-Out or any other foam cleaner, so I can't remark on them, but many really do like it.

I break-in my barrels in the following manner:

Shoot one, clean.
Shoot two, clean.
Shoot three, clean.
Shoot four, clean.
Shoot five, clean.

I then start load development, and clean every five. After 100 rounds I clean every 20.

I use Sweets and clean per their instructions until the bore is clean. The first shot typically takes an hour to clean out. My latest Savage, a 22-250, took over 300 strokes and 30 patches to clean-out the first shot. At present, 20 shots take just five patches and 50 strokes. You should clean until the patches come out white and no more copper is visible. It will be a royal pain in the rear, but you'll appreciate it later.

I can go as much as 40 shots between cleanings, and cleaning is a breeze.

If you have unburnt powder in your barrel, then your load is operating at low pressures. If you don't have any pressure signs, then increase it.

excessive copper can be from a rough bore BUT it can also be from a bore that was lapped too smooth. I had to rough up a PacNor select match tube to get it to stop fouling with copper in 5 rnds. That made all the difference.

are your case necks "sooty"? does the boltface show powder rings around the edges of the primers? if so, you are too low in pressure which will cause poor combustion of the powders and makes for much more powder fouling.

I have to agree with new_guy. I just started using wipe-out and I am totally hooked on it. I recommend trying there test on a rifle that you think is clean and you will be amazed. I also broke in my barrel with the Tubb's Final Finish using the 3 finest grit bullets. Now I spray wipe-out and leave over night and the barrel is sparkling clean after I run a dry patch.