I just recently purchased a Savage 116 7mm Rem. Magnum rifle and because of the cost of the ammunition, I've decided to start reloading(and because of the fun of it).

I would be shooting mainly at a shooting range nearby, at 100 and 200 yards, and would like some advice.

First: What brand, type(boat tail, soft point, etc) and weight of bullet would be recommended. I'm most interested in accuracy, maybe if I start hunting w/ this rifle, I will do another research on it...

Second: What type, and brand of powder. I've read that H4350 and IMR-4350 would be good for accuracy, so I might get started on these...any suggestions?

Third: Any book, magazine, or url, as source of information on different loads, tips, and advices.

For the primer..I've decided to start with Federal, as I've read on another topic.

A friend of mine loads the 7mm. He uses the Nosler 140grain partitions for hunting and uses a fairly stout charge. I do not know which powder he uses. I would recommend the Lyman 47th reloading manual and the manual of the bullet and or powder you select so you can cross reference. I like Hodgdon powder quite a bit myself so I would start there and then adjust if I wasn't satisfied. Nosler Ballistic Tips are also known for accuracy as are the hornady A max. You may need to try a a few different brands to find out what your rifle shoots best.

If you haven't done so already, consider reducing the trigger pull on the Savage. It is a very decent factory trigger but need to be 3-3.5lbs of pull to help accuracy. Also if you haven't shot orowned Savages before they are quite good despite the reasonable price. best wishes for the rifle and load.

Sell the 7MM Remington Mag and get something like a .223 as long as you are going target shooting. After shooting 50 rounds with the 7MM you see what I am talking about. Beside a caliber like that is not as accurate as something like a .222 or 223. I use 4831 with the 7MM and a 140 grain bullet, but don't shoot targets with it. Good Luck

luis-tux, Welcome to the forum and to the reloading addiction.
My 7mm Rem Mag is the reason I started reloading. I tried almost every brand of factory loads with very poor results.
My deer hunting and accuracy load is:
Winchester Brass
Sierra 140gr SPT's (flat base)
64.5grs Reloder 22
Winchester WLRM primers
3120 fps
I get a consistant .5 MOA from this load and sometimes better.
This is a upper end load so do your homework, start low and work up watching for pressure signs.
You can get loads of information from the powder and bullet companys web sites.
Good luck and once again, welcome.

Sierra 168 HPBT and RL-22 along with CCI large rifle primers works great.

As for a site with more information, naturally I would suggest http://stevespages.com/page8.htm

[ 10-10-2002, 17:17: Message edited by: ricciardelli ]

Louis, welcome to the forum!

While I do agree with the observations about starting with a smaller chambering, I can't fault you too much, since my first centerfire was a Savage 7mag......

Anyhoo..... First things first. Get a couple of reloading manuals and read them. Then, read them again. Go to Barnes and Noble or your local library, and see if you can find some more books to read, such as "mettallic cartridge reloading", etc.

Then, start with some inexpensive loads with some of the lighter weight, standard bullets. I've had very good luck with 154 Hornady's over I4350, with mild loads.

Another word of caution: the 7mag is a chambering where the data varies tremendously. Between the Nosler book and the Hornady book, speeds and charges vary almost 10% in some bulet weights! Be careful, and don't worry about speed. At 100 yards, there is no difference. HTH, Dutch.

150g Nosler BTs work great for me.

H4831SC powder is great. start around 58g or so and work up.

Great target load is 48.0g of Varget. With 150s its loafs around 2700fps. Easy on your shoulder and super accurate.

Best way to find satisfactuion in reloading is to buy a chronograph (Midway has good prices..Chrony basic model is usually about $60-70). You need to know your velocity and its variation to prove consistant handloads. Plus you can then calculate or look up on a table your own downrange ballistics (sierra reloading manual has good tables).

Good luck

Greetings and welcome.

You've found a place with lots of experience, and, many, sometimes quite differing, opinions.

To the suggestions posted previously, I'd add, especially if you plan to do a fair amount of target shooting with your 7RMag - you might consider some reduced (60 - 70% of full power) loads of IMR/H4895 (also works with 4064 and, supposedly, RL15, although I have no personal experience with reduced RL15 loads). The burning characteristics of those powders allow for excellent accuracy at lower load densities; the resultant reduced recoil of those loads makes for more pleasant shooting when you're doing a lot of it.

If you check Steve's page http://stevespages.com/284_4_140.html you'll note a max of 57 grains I4895 with 140 grain bullet, so you could go down into the mid 30 grain range and go from there.

Some of the reduced loads can be incredibly accurate - Ken Waters listed a particularly accurate load of 40 I/H4895 and 175 grain Hornady's for the 7RMag in one of his "Pet Loads" articles years ago. That load, or a grain or two more of 4064, has produced numerous sub 1" five shot groups and 2,300-2,400 FPS (about the same as the original 7x57 loading) in my 7RMags, with negligible recoil. Just be sure to use magnum primers so all the powder gets a chance to burn.

R-WEST

[ 10-10-2002, 22:34: Message edited by: R-WEST ]

Thanks for all the advice....

In regards to buying a .222 or .223 caliber rifle...well that will have to be for next year(and more $$$).

I guess now is just a matter of waiting for that reloading kit to arrive, buy some supplies and start the fun!

I was wondering if maybe reloading with a lighter bullet, I could have a ligher amount of powder, and have less recoil without loosing accuracy(It shouldn't matter that much at 100yds, or maybe 200yds, should it?), and have a different load for hunting, with a heavier bullet.

In regards for the trigger, I'll have to admit that I like the fact that it is a very simple trigger(It makes me think is more reliable), but it is really very heavy!But I'll check with a gunsmith on that one.

By the way, anyone here from Utah? If yes, any gunsmith you'd reccomend?

Print out Dutch's comments and read them 3 or 4 times a day, especially his suggestion that you buy at least 2-3 loading manuals and read them through at least twice BEFORE you drop that first powder charge.

No one here would want to scare you away from the hobby, but there are certain aspects of reloading that work exactly opposite what your common sense will try to tell you. For example, most folks would assume that using a very small amount of powder would always be safe, while using too much powder would be dangerous. In fact, one of the most common ways to literally blow up a rifle action is by accidentally charging a case with a small amount of slow-burning powder. Only after much reading will you learn such things.

So do like Dutch says: Buy the manuals, study the manuals, then start with lighter weight bullets, which will help hold the recoil down.

I would add the recommendation that you buy a good strap-on recoil pad and use it from the start. As others have noted, the recoil from firing this rifle off a bench for 50-60 rounds will add up and give you a tender shoulder. The last thing you want to do is develop a flinch, so I advise guys like you to get a good recoil pad and use it. I bought a strap-on PAST shoulder pad years ago and wouldn't shoot without it (30-06 and .243 mostly). If you can't afford a nice pad, make one out of something like folded-up carpet padding or the like.

Kentucky, thanks for the kind words, and allow me to return the favor: Ditto on the Past shoulder pad. I don't shoot the bangers without it anymore, either.

Let me emphasize, also, that YES, you can shoot light loads but NO, you can't make them with the slow powders usually used in the 7mag. Doing so is known to result in occasional DETONATION OF RIFLES. As in: KABOOM!

For light loads, use the "youth loads" published at Hodgdon.com, or the SR loads in the Speer manual (included in the Rockchucker kit). I have use the SR loads, and they work. Not for benchrest accuracy, but plenty accurate for field position practice (1.5 m.o.a. for five). These loads also save on shoulders, ears, barrels and pocketbooks!

Oh, and don't forget to have fun. HTH, Dutch.

LT, I can't really improve on the earlier comments, Dutch is right as usual. I have (4) current loading manuals, & I still read them cover to cover when I buy a new one. You can always learn something.
The 7mag is a great round, but as stated earlier, you can get better accuracy from a .223, .308, etc. There is really no point in shooting a magnum w/ lighter, faster bullets IMHO. If you are shooting for accuracy, Sierra & Hornady make 160gr+ match bullets. I have had good luck w/ RL22 & IMR7828 in the 7mag. Good luck, welcome to the board!

If you are just going to shoot paper
use
hornady 139 SP flat base
winchester brass and primers
start at 62 and work up grains of rl 22
OAL is critical in a 7 mag

don't believe a SOUL who tells you it aint accurate. While the 223 can be a joy to shoot all day long, the 7 mag will have more satisfaction... this from a guy who "benchshoots" a 416 rem.

space your shots, ALOT.

GET A CHRONO... if you don't do anything else, get dial calipers and a chrono.. hell, shoot factory ammo, and get a chrono... did I mention get a chrono?

If you find out how to measure your case overal lenth, do it for every different bullet, and subtract .0275

be safe

jeffe

Thanks again for the advices.
But when I said a lighter bullet, I should have mentioned a faster burning powder too! Yes, I am aware or the problems w/ too little powder, the reason I would do that, is to have less recoil.

Not that the extension/pads i have on the rifle don't do a good job(I realized I needed them badly after my first set of 20 rounds), but since I'd be just for shooting paper, I would not need that much power mainly for shooting at short ranges, maybe 200 yds every now and then(after I get a better scope that is).

But as far as jeffeoso's comment...I agree it is alot of fun shooting a 7mag. but...why would I subtract .0275 from the overall lenght of the case? You mean reduce the lenght of the factory case or reduce that amount after shooting?Sorry for my bad English, but also why would I do that?