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I want to get some formulas for 12 Guage Skeet and Trap Loads using AA hulls as well as Federal Gold Medal hulls for 1 oz. shot columns 2 3/4 dram equiv. Powder, Wads and Primers Also, same information for 1 1/8 oz shot column and 3 dram equivalent. What is the latest and greatest powder and why? Thanks in advance. | ||
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If you're loading for target loads, a large number of different powders will work quite well. Some of them are Alliant Red Dot or American Select, Winchester Super Target, IMR 700X, Hodgdon Titewad, Hodgdon Clays, and Solo 1000. In 12 gauge target loads, you might as well use the fastest burning powder you can that is appropriate for the loads you are making, as you will use less of that powder for a given load and velocity. For example, you could also use the slower burning Green Dot, but you will need a few grains more than you would need of Red Dot, so the loads would cost you a bit more. There may be tiny differences in performance with these powders, but I've not been able to discern any practical effect in shooting them. Nowadays I use Hodgdon Titewad when I can get it -- it's slightly cheaper than any of the others, and you use a bit less of it, so it makes for the least expensive loads. Otherwise I like Hodgdon Clays. But really, the differences are so small that I'd go with what I could get cheapest, or that works out to giving the smallest expense per load. In rifles, different powders can often make a large difference in accuracy and performance of a given load with a given rifle, but this is not true of shotshell loading -- the performance of one powder is essentially indistinguishable from that of another, provided they are of about the same burning rate. For wads, I like the Claybuster clones of the Winchester WAA12 (for 1 1/8 oz. loads) or WAA12SL (for 1 oz. loads)-- these wads work the same as the Winchester ones and are substantially less expensive. The Federal target hulls CAN be loaded using the Winchester wads or their clones, but this doesn't work as well as using the Federal wads because the internal capacity of the Federal hull is different enough -- it is somewhat larger -- from the Winchester hull that you don't get a really good crimp using the Winchester wads. The Federal wad is slightly longer to accommodate the larger internal dimensions of the Federal hull. I'd use Winchester 209 primers for the Winchester hulls and Federal 209 ones for the Federal hulls. If you want to use one primer for all, then I'd recommend the Winchester one. Get a loading booklet -- you can get them free -- from the powder manufacturer of whatever powder you are using, and then follow the loading instructions there. Shotshell loading is a kind of "cookbook" exercise. If you come upon Remington or Peters 12 ga. hulls (older target hulls, newer STS, Gun Club, or promotional loads), you can treat them as if they are interchangeable with the Winchester AA hulls and load them with the same primer, powder kind and weight, and wads as you use for the Winchester ones. (This will not really work with Federal hulls, nor with the smaller sizes -- 20 ga., 28. ga, .410 -- in Remington hulls. To get good results with those you need the primer, powder weight, and wads that are made specifically for them.) If you are loading for skeet, use #9 shot. For trap use #7 1/2 or #8. There's no need to load for high velocity, as clay targets are easy to break. I shoot skeet, and load 1 oz. of shot to about 1125 to 1150 f.p.s. More power than that just makes you more tired from the extra recoil as you shoot. The standard target load in 12 ga. is 1 1/8 oz of shot, loaded to 1125 or 1200 f.p.s. In my view, that extra 1/8 oz of shot isn't needed -- it won't really raise your scores, and shot is more or less expensive. I've repeatedly mentioned cost of loading here. That may or may not be a consideration for you, but if you are contemplating reloading shotshells, then it must be a factor, otherwise you'd just buy and shoot factory loads. In rifle loads you can improve on factory loads and tailor them for your gun and your use. In shotshells, that is not really true -- the factory loads are as good as what you can load for yourself. But also, if you do a good job with loading, your shotshell reloads can also be as good as original factory loads. So the only considerations in loading shotshells are cost of the components and how much of them you use, the quality of your loads (i.e., how well you put them together), and the time you spend in loading. [ 05-09-2003, 18:55: Message edited by: LE270 ] | |||
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I have been shooting skeet for 18 years now. I used to shoot registered skeet and shot around 35,000 to 40,000 rounds a year. For 12 guage I use AA hulls only, 700X powder, win 209 primers and I use 1 oz claybuster wads. I have been using 1 oz of hard 8 shot and find it to work well in both skeet and trap (from the 16 yard line). For handicap trap I use hard 7 1/2 shot, again, 1 ounce loads. Like the other poster I have yet to find where a 1 1/8oz load ever helped my scores. When I shot registered skeet I shot in AA class in all 4 guages. Hope this helps, Don | |||
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30 cal.,,I use win.209 primer,19gr.of red dot,or,20gr of green dot[I think it patterns a little better]claybuster 1100 wad[waa12 repl.]1 oz. of #9 for skeet,#7 1/2 for trap.After I use up my keg of red dot,I'm thinking of trying some clays,If I don't like that I'm switching to green dot.Red dot is a fine powder,and burns fairly clean,but a little brutal if you're going to be shooting all day.As allways back these off a bit and work up to them.Good luck,Clay.P.S. I'm using aa's and sts hulls. | |||
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LE270, Groove and Claybuster- Thank you all for your assistance. I have been a half ass shot shell reloader for about 20 years. Most of my reloading has been for dove and quail. My nephew has started shooting skeet for about a year now through the local 4-H chapter and he has gotten the reloading bug. So, I am going to coach him in the reloading aspects. For him, we're going with the Solo 1000, the Claybuster wads and the WW209 primers; all of which he has already purchased. For me, I purchased a bunch of Versalite Wads years ago hence, I still have a bunch. I am going to load with those until I run out. Of the posts, two of you reference the Alliant powders first, Red Dot & Green Dot. Does that stuff burn any cleaner than it used to 20 years ago. I used to load that back then and that stuff was nasty; unburned powder flakes out the yang!? Again, thanks!!!!!!!!! | |||
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quote:I listed these powders first mostly because they are probably the most widely known and used, and because Alliant comes first alphabetically! Yes. The present-day versions of these powders are cleaner burning than they were in the past. If being clean burning is a najor consideration for you, then you should try Hodgdon Clays -- it's generally considered to be the cleanest burning of the lot when used in 12 gauge target loads. I also agree with the advice to use hard shot. It costs a bit more, but it does perform somewhat better because the pellets do not deform as much when shot. [ 05-10-2003, 05:21: Message edited by: LE270 ] | |||
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12 ga Win AA Hull Win 209 primer 18.5 gr of Hodgdon CLAYS CLAYBUSTER Wad (SP4100-12 I think) 7/8 oz Hard 8's Fast, good patterning, LOW recoil load that SMOKES the clay birds and the feathered ones. I do quite a bit of Field Trial and Pointing Dog Hunt Test gunning and have come to use this load exclusively for those activities. Also use it on Shooting Preserves on liberated Chukars and Quail, also Grouse and Woodcock when I carry a 12ga. Switch to HARD 7 1/2's works good on pointed preserve pheasant. I said "I Think" in reference to the Wad part #. It is by Claybuster, I don't remember the # right now but it is their wad for 7/8-1oz loads. | |||
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