This is also posted in the gunsmithing and small bores forums. Sorry for the duplication, but want to reach as many that may know about what to do as possible.

I have a .257 Weatherby Magnum in a Mark V Deluxe that I have tried and tried to get to shoot consistently. Just when I think I have things looking promising...it goes to frustration in a hurry. I went shooting last week and a load that showed promise (more than once) went to hell. A load that had been a pretty good load in the past shot like crap. I blamed it on the fouling in the gun (less than 20 rounds) and decided I was done playing this game...the gun was going up for sale to be replaced by something more accurate.

Well, I got to thinking today about the barrel and the barrel channel. From what I understand the Mark V's in wood stocks, the barrel should be free of touching the barrel channel except for the pressure pad towards the end of the forearm. I decided to see what I had going and got a dollar bill and tested for float in front of the pressure pad...looked and felt fine. As expected I was stopped at the pressure pad. I couldn't get anything to go through the gap behind the pressure pad so I unscrewed the barreled action from the stock, inserted my dollar bill and put things back together. I couldn't even wiggle the dollar bill. On top of that I noticed that the bluing is worn on both sides of the barrel from apparently "riding" the stock.

I am guessing that I need to relieve this pressure if I expect things to get better. I have no intention of removing the pressure pad...at least at this point. Am I thinking correctly? If I am, how far back towards the action do I relieve this pressure? Do I go clear back to where the barrel meets the action, or do I stop short (front of the chamber)?

Any ideas and help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

300 There will no doubt be a number of opinions on how to "fix" the problem. It would appear that you have barrel contact with the forearm of the stock and yes that could move to point of impact all over the place.If it was my rifle I would relieve the stock right from the chamber area to the tip of the forearm. I would then glass bed the action and approx the first 3 inches of the barrel in the chamber area. The rest of the barrel would be free floated. I would then shoot the rifle again with some of the more promising loads and see what groups are possible. I would also seal up the inside of the forearm with Tung oil. I suspect your stock is not sealed and you are taking on moisture or drying the stock out depending on atmospheric conditions. This is changing your point of impact. On a rifle I am going to hunt with I want some clearance between the forearm and barrel. If the rifle still will not shoot I would then add a pressure point at the tip of the forearm using bedding compound. Apply enough compound to create contact with the barrel approx 1 inch in length. Tighten the front guard screw to within 1/2 turn of fully tight. Let the bedding compound set,clean things up and then fully tighten the guard screws. That should provide a slight and even upward pressure on your barrel. If the rifle still won't shoot consider a new barrel. Hope that helps.

I have a weaterby mark V svm syn. factory seconed in .308 that I had to remove stock material on one side of stock channel.. And a mark V accumark factory seconed in .280 rem that I added a front end pushup org. free floated. Im very happy with the results on both.

I have herd that the 257 mag. can be barrel burner, and somewhat finicky. I once had a 25-06 that only liked one load and ended up free floating that rifle. FUN FUN

Mine has always been a tack driver, I've tried exactly one load in the .257. RL22 and 100 TSX, often puts three in one hole, normal five shot groups are .6 or so. It does foul, I have to clean mine with wipeout about every 20 shots as well, but I can put up with that.