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I have used the product. I think it is very good, but not quite as quick and easy as described in his advertisements. The maker suggests a rather unique way of cleaning, basically wrapping a cotton patch moistened with a small amount of the product around a slightly loose-fitting nylon brush (ie. approx .270 brush for .30 caliber), then run back and forth through barrel 15-20 times, then repeat until patches come clean, then dry patch. He claims this should take just a few patches regardless of how old and dirty your barrel is. In my experience it took about 5 patches with a fairly new well kept barrel after about 20 shots, took about 10-12 pathces in a pre-64 model 70. First patch or two comes out very dark with powder fowling, subsequent pathces come out very blue then progressively lighter. This is the best product I've tried to date for removing copper fouling, with the possible exception of Wipe-out. Definately much more effective than Sweets and CR-10. I've been unable to remove copper fouling from a coppermelt-cleaned barrel with Wipe-out. I have been able to remove a small amount of copper fouling from a Wipe-out-cleaned barrel with coppermelt. The product itself smells strongly of ammonia and also bubbles when opened like it's carbonated. The primary draw back of the product is the cost, payed about $35 for four ounces. Haven't quite decided if the extra cost is worth it, especially since Wipe-out works so well at $12 a can. Concerning the company, I've actually found them very accomidating. When purchasing the product, I wasn't charged S&H. The CEO wrote me an email informing me of the mistake. I called on a Sunday afternoon expecting to get a machine, but ended up talking to the CEO (Gary Hunter). Briefly discussed the product, guns, shooting, hunting, etc. Seemed like a real friendly guy. Lives up in Alberta somewhere. Hope this helps. | ||
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bbergman, Thanks for the feedback. I am glad someone has actually tried it. I think it is just too rich for my blood for what you get. They advertise 3.5 oz. for $29.95 + $7.50 shipping for a total of $37.45. I just don't think it can be that much better. $7.50 shipping.....ouch. Bob | |||
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The best way I've found to remove copper is to plug the chamber (Sinclair sells chamber plugs), fill the barrel with household ammonia, let it sit for 3-4 hours, drain, wipe, and inspect the bore. If copper remains do it again. Cheap, easy, and effective. What more could you ask? | |||
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I'll second that LeoCal. After trying with Butchs and JB's on a very coppered bore I used Commercial Strength Ammonia (10%) available from True Value at $4/gallon (yes, a gallon)10% is incredibly strong, much more so than what you buy at the grocery....DO NOT DO THIS IN THE HOUSE. Watch the copper come out within minutes. Following dry patches I flush the barrel with alcohol, more dry patches and a light lube. With this method I actually have to let normal copper fouling build back up to maximize accuracy. No more expensive copper cleaners for me. | |||
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Interesting posts about the 10% ammonia. For cleaning barrels after corrosive surplus ammo, I have been cutting a slit in a patch, poking the corner of the patch in the eye of the slotted tip of the cleaning rod, and then threading the corner of the patch through the slit in the patch. I put a cup of Grocery store ammonia on the ground and push the cleaning rod through the rifle. With the muzzle submerged in ammonia I pull up the rod, sucking the ammoina all the way to the chamber before the suction seal is broken. This process was doing a good job of dissolving the corrosive salts if it was after a conventional powder solvent cleaning. The problem was the ammonia took the bluing off the muzzles. I decided that surplus ammo to get on the paper was too much trouble, and I just use the pulled bullets now to get on the paper. But after reading this thread, I would like to get some 10% ammonia for copper fouling in stainless barrels. | |||
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