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One of Us |
i've just aquired a bar in a 300 win mag the guy i got it from wouldn't use reloads he told me that reloads needed a special crimp has anyone had any experience with this | ||
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one of us |
I reaload for alot of auto's and do not crimp. It would be easy enough to check if you have enough neck tension. Reload 4 shells to the bottom of the cannelure. Put them all in the clip at the range.....check and see if the last one moved by seeing if it's still at the bottom of the cannelure. | |||
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One of Us |
I load for a 243 BAR and I use a lee factory crimp die just to be sure the bullet does not move. Works for me! | |||
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one of us |
I have a BAR in 30-06. Same experience as R D McMillan. I crimp in the cannelure of the bullet with a Lee FCD and have never had a problem. | |||
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one of us |
If you crimp in the cannelure, you don't need the Lee "Factory crimp die", you can crimp with the ordinary seating die. I've used both crimping methods without any problem. You may have to SLIGHTLY reduce the diameter of the inside sizer (as I did) to get a firmer neck tension, since the 300 WM has short neck; 2 or 3/100 of a mm. could be a good option. | |||
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One of Us |
ooops"" i misread the post I thought it said getting loaded at the bar | |||
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one of us |
Actually, I have a modicum of experience at both. My BAR .270 requires no bullet crimp, nor does it require the "small base dies" that some autoloaders may need. Getting loaded at the bar, on the other hand, may place a special "crimp" in a key part of your anatomy, depending on the attitude of your significant other. | |||
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one of us |
I use the cheap Lee Factory Crimpe die w/ all of the BARs I've loaded for. It certainly doen't hurt anything and it gives the added confidence that each load is the same. Good Luck Reloader | |||
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