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Yes, you read the heading correctly. I received, as part of the total deal, 100 pieces of brass and 2 boxes of Woodleighs, dies, etc. Now here's the good part....the person who previously owned the firearm/brass, etc. installed the primers WITHOUT FIRST SIZING THE NEW BRASS. How do I know this? Because it's OBVIOUS from the bent case mouths, etc....it's typical new large bore brass. The question....can you size the brass as normal and just punch the new primers out? I don't know what sort of primers are in there so I don't want to use them...plus, the installation of the primers was done with a hammer or crowbar or some other non-applicable appliance. I don't want to set off the primers by punching them out...and after nearly 30 years of reloading....this is a new one on me! Thanks!! Gary DRSS NRA Lifer SCI DSC | ||
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I've punched out live primers over the years. I have never had one go off. I do wear glasses and ear protection just in case. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Me too I've pressed out a lot of them and never had an issue, eye protection recommended just in case. I would press them out firmly but with no sudden slams into the primer. | |||
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If the brass is brand new, why not just neck size? Pete "Be kind to your neighbor, he knows where you live." | |||
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Couldn't you just take out the depriming pin off the bottom of the expander rod? Or if you have a Lee Collet then you could take out the mandrel and carefully adjust the die to toggle over at just the right point to size the neck to whatever diameter you want. That works for when you have a whole set of cases with powder in them and find out you forgot to size the necks because the bullet falls through (don't ask me how I know  ).____________________________________ There are those who would misteach us that to stick in a rut is consistency - and a virtue, and that to climb out of the rut is inconsistency - and a vice. - Mark Twain | Chinese Proverb: When someone shares something of value with you and you benefit from it, you have a moral obligation to share it with others. ___________________________________ | |||
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Here's some collective input: www.snipershide.net/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&B...arch=true#Post345475 | |||
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Thanks, gents for your thoughts. To try to briefly tell the story...the brass has NEVER been full length sized...it's obviously brand new. It's also 425 WR caliber...at about $4 a throw...they don't give it away. And this individual had primed all 100 pieces of brass w/o running ANY portion of it through a sizing die....not to mention triming to correct length. And, of course, I don't know what kind of primers they are...brand, magnum, etc. Bottom line, I'll use my shooting glasses and ease them out best I can. Thanks, again. Gary DRSS NRA Lifer SCI DSC | |||
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Ya know, I do it at times.. but really.. if I was using my head. .I wouldn't... the cost of the primers isn't worth putting an eye out... I'd kill the primers by giving a shot of WD 40 down each case with the straw that comes with each can of that taped on the side... When you have killed the primers with WD40, then deprime it and resize and then seat new primers... Even at todays prices.. 200 primers is $6.00 or so.... Would you risk putting your hand in front of a buzz saw for $6.00?? of course not... so why risk an eyeball or worse for $6.00... Life Member: The American Vast Right Wing Conspiracy Jan 20, 2009.. Prisoner in Dumocrat 'Occupied America', Partisan in the 'Save America' Underground Beavis..... James Beavis..... Of Her Majesty's Secret Service..... Spell Check Division "Posterity — you will never know how much it has cost my generation to preserve your freedom. I hope you will make good use of it." John Quincy Adams A reporter did a human-interest piece on the Texas Rangers. The reporter recognized the Colt Model 1911 the Ranger was carrying and asked him "Why do you carry a 45?" The Ranger responded, "Because they don't make a 46." Duhboy....Nuttier than Squirrel Poop... | |||
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I've pressed live primers out of cases before, with no mishaps. As mentioned above, "Press" - don't "punch". And wear eye protection. Question - could you not chamber each case and fire the primer off? Sounds like more fun, and safer to boot (if the cases will chamber) | |||
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When I buy new brass, I chamfer the case mouths, prime, charge and seat bullets. I don't size first, unless the mouth is wrinkled. Then I neck size only enough to iron out the wrinkle. | |||
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I'm in the put 'em in a fire arm and fire 'em off group. If that wouldn't work, I'd just deprime them carefully. You can crush a primer in a vise as long as you don't give it a sudden jolt. Don't try this at home, kids. | |||
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I've deprimed live primers many times and never had one go off until just recently, definately makes the heart skip a beat  wear your safety glasses. | |||
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I buy new primed brass all the time and never size them. Just run the brass far enough for the spindle and sizer ball to go through the neck, back it out, trim and chamfer if needed, and load it up. We are not talking bench rest rounds. I just did it with my 260 and speer nickle plated brass and still got groups under an inch. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
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If they are for a specific gun see if the brass fits in the chamber easily. If so, Add powder and bullets and you're off! You'll be fire-forming these anyway. I've loaded about a lot of .223 .308, 30-30 and 6.5-284 by adding primers, powder and bullets and ignoring the resizing die. If the brass chambers, you're all set. | |||
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As long as you use a slow uniform motion you will not have any trouble. Protect your face and eyes. Put a shield between you and the press ram if it has a priming slot that is open toward you. After you deprime though you have to figure out how to safely discard the old but still hot primers. You could just pop them in your rifle first. Then it is business as usual. | |||
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I've deprimed them before and had one go off with no bad side effects, but thinking back on it I think it's a whole lot smarter just to stick the case in the rifle and pop the primers. | |||
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I agree with that. If case mouths are dented, I'd use my Lee Universal Expanding die to gently open them without flaring the mouths, or if I didn't have that, a closed needlenose pliers will work. If the cases won't chamber, though, you'll have to size. I've done that with the primers in place, removing the decapping pin. "A cheerful heart is good medicine." | |||
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Size em enough to get em to chamber then, fire the primers and get busy if you don't want to use some starting loads and bullets to fireform the cases with.....I'd do the latter. | |||
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If the brass is brand new it should be loadable. Maybe just running the case in the die enough to straighten out the necks should be enough. or you could shoot all the cases through the rifle to kill all the primers and start over. This must be done outside. I have seen primers shoot flame about 20 feet. -------------------- THANOS WAS RIGHT! | |||
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And the smoke from the primers contains a good bit of lead in a finely atomized form that you can absorb by breathing it. Needs to be done outside. "A cheerful heart is good medicine." | |||
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I have done a bunch never had one go off...you probably have more risk driving to work. Where eye protection and ear protection...if you worried about particles one of those dust masks Mike Legistine actu? Quid scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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I don't know what the big deal is. Woods had the best solution. Simply take the de-capping pin out of the die and re-size them. Either full length or neck size if you are sure that the brass is new. I see a lot of new brass offered in catalogs that are primed. I have re-sized a lot of cases with primers in them by taking out the de-capping pin anf running them in a re-sizing die. | |||
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Whilst I've removed a lot of live primers, it's probably not the smartest thing to be doing. It would be so easy to just run them through the rifle and fire them... | |||
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And it soils the barell pretty bad, at least last time I tried it maybe ten years ago. Regards Goran Browning BAR II Safari .338WM Sako Hunter .30-06 Remington 700 .222Rem Ruger 10/22 .22LR Blaser ES80 cal. 12/.222Rem Browning B325 cal. 12 | |||
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+1 I never size new brass except for the necks. many times a Fl die will not even touch new brass enough to size it. Most of the time I just shove the mandrel in and raise the press just to uniform the necks. Works like a champ. Good Luck Reloader | |||
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If I were going to go through all the trouble to work up a load, I'd do it with primers that I am confident using i.e. ones that I can identify and can duplicate. While I have pushed out many a live primer with a universal decapping die, for safety sake, I'd touch them off, outside, and re size. You apparently don't want to save the primers so there is no point in taking the chance, however small, of de-priming them live. And, you also want the cases uniform so sizing after deactivating the primer is prudent. PS I loaded a whole tray of virgin 45 Colt cases with powder only to find that the bullets (fell into) the unsized cases when attempting to seat them. | |||
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Thanks, gents for all the responses. First, let me say that while I appreciate the folks that recommend neck sizing with the existing primers, etc...this is NOT a good idea for this particular caliber or any of the older nitro express calibers...for numerous reasons, tolerences of chambers, etc. Second, the type of brass (Bertram) is notoriously non-uniform in it's virgin state. Third, the primers, as loaded, are not identifiable as to magnum, non-magnum, etc., therefore duplicating the loads the next go-round may or may not work. And fourth, the recoil of a 9.5# 425 WR from the bench, while working up loads, is not for the recoil-shy. So I think I'll try to CAREFULLY de-prime them, or, if I set just one off......oil the barrel and have a primer shoot-fest. Thanks, again, for the responses. Gary DRSS NRA Lifer SCI DSC | |||
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I had a fast read so I did not notice the dies brand, but, for example, RCBS has removable decapping pin. Take it away before the work and put it on again when you finish. bye Stefano Waidmannsheil | |||
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