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one of us |
I read in Hodgdon Manual #27 that measuring case head or belt expansion can be a good means of measuring pressure. It says that for unbelted cases one should measure just in front of the extractor groove and that if expansion is 0.0005" then that would be considered maximum. For belted cases one should measure the belt and it should expand no more than 0.0007". The question I have is should this test only be done on new cases or only on once fored cases or does it matter? I would think only on new cases. Rufous. | ||
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one of us |
The method of measuring case head expansion to determine pressure is an old, and in my experience, fruitless method. First, it would be absolutely necessary to measure the head in exactly the same place, since lack of concentricity within .00005 is a certainty. Second, no instrument ordinarily available to the handloader can measure reliably within such tolerance. I have a lot of respect for many of the proponents of case head measurement, like Ken Waters and others, but I just disagree that this can be an accurately measured indicator. I believe it's a bit like witching for water: The measurer sees what he expects to see. On the other hand, I'll admit this: If the case head expands enough to be measured, then the load is definately too hot. | |||
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<.> |
Let me note here that Rufous cites 0.0005" (five-ten thousandths) and StoneCreek cites 0.00005" (five-one hundred thousandths). Probably a typo here, but the point about available instruments being able to measure this dimension AND variables in concentricity are both germane to the discussion -- be the dimension ten or hundred thousandths. Now I'm wondering about the head dimensions on some of my loads! | ||
one of us |
Hey rufous, I answered you over on HA, so I'll not repeat it here. I will say that Pressure Ring Expansion is my prefered method, but I do record Case Head Expansion as well for my Test Loads. Stonecreek is correct about them being "old methods", however he is incorrect about them not being able to measure the values accurately. There are indeed a couple of tricks to doing it properly but they are not all that difficult to master. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
Hot Core: so instead of measuring the belt of my 300 Win Mag cases you think it would be best to measure the pressure ring just in front of the belt? So I run the case through the fl sizer and measure it at the same point (Federal cases so one anvil on the "F") and then fire and measure it at the same place again? Is that right? Hodgdon manual said 0.0007" on the belt would be considered max. Would it also be 0.0007" on the pressure ring or back to 0.0005"? If measuring the point just in front of the belt then I would think it would be clear that one would not want to use a new case since they are generally drastically undersized and would expand significantly. So if once fired and fl resized case measures 0.5130" at pressure ring then after firing it should not measure more than 0.5135 or 0.5137" Does this sound right? Thanks, Rufous. | |||
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<Daryl Elder> |
Measuring case head expansion is not a reliable indicator of pressure. No 2 lots, or even any 2 rds. of brass are identical in composition or temper. Art Alphin's 'Any Shot You Want' explains this better than I can and I believe this discussion has made it's rounds before in these forums. Just my 2 cents-- what's that in US$? | ||
one of us |
Absolutely right...we've been here and done this before. The only thing I can say is "you give someone a micrometer and they have to measure somelthing with it" and why not. it keeps them busy. | |||
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<MePlat> |
What is the correct way to determine safe pressure? Don't want to hear go by the books. What if you have a wildcat and it is not in the books? What if you have a tight chamber and short throat? What if you have a large chamber and long throat? Of course one could always load just hot enough to get the bullet out of the barrel and then go up a couple grains and call that max. How does one do it I wonder | ||
<.> |
Some goof in another forum (I won't name him.) liked to buy used break top revolvers and then load ammo until the gun failed. He'd do the same thing with bolt action Mausers. Then he'd run a "curve" or "slope" or some sort of "equation" out from his "data" and pronounce what was "maximum pressure" for such and such. Well, gun metal fatigues just like brass. Overloading a gun and shooting it, then shooting again, and again with increasing loads until it fails tells you little about the load, and MAYBE a bit about metal fatigue in a gun. I think we're all whistling in the dark on pressure, loads, and internal ballistics. I'm convinced that pressure signs are unreliable, and calculations are nearly worthless unless and until mfgs start providing more ballistic data on their powders. | ||
<Daryl Elder> |
There was one fellow on this forum that had purchased a strain guage set-up for cheap. You glue it on the bbl and hook it up(?) and there you go. He posted a web site as well, but I don't recall it but I'm sure someone will. Velocity is usually a good indicator; if you get X speed with Y charge, don't worry, be happy! Of course, there are exceptions. Wildcats are one. Tight chambers are another. The best us mortals can do is read all the signs: primers, bolt lift, smoke and flames, sirens, etc.. | ||
<MePlat> |
I would still like to know how it is done. It would be a star in your crowns to help me out on this. I must have been doing it wrong for years and would like to be enlightened. Then we must say that all the people who published load data for wildcats without the aid of a pressure barrel should not be believed. If it is not to be believed then what do we go on? Then we could say that if people who have worked with wildcats or improved cartridge and who does have a lot of experience cannot be believed then none on this forum should be believed whren they give out load data too. So we are all suspect in the reliability department I assume. Somewhere we have to make a determination on what is safe and what is not safe so how do we do it? Can it be done; because what may be safe in a pressure barrel with a factory cartridge may not be safe in another barrel that is a production barrel according to some then we are back to my original question: How can safe pressures be determined? I am open to all suggestions on this subject since it pops up every now and then. | ||
one of us |
Well, boys its the best we have, but you must be able to read a mic...It has worked for years, now all the geniuses are condeming it as a proven method, so how about telling me a better method, for the homespun boys stuffin there own and can't afford or want a million dollars worth of computerized pressure equipment.... horsehockey, measuring the pressure ring works good enough for Govmint work! ------------------ | |||
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<Daryl Elder> |
Well, I used to think it was a good way to measure pressure until I measured the rings on some 9.3x64 RWS brass on reloaded rounds. I lost all faith when the rings on hotter charges measured less than those with lighter charges. User error? It doesn't take a genius to use a mic. To eliminate my own incompetence I got a tool and die maker to measure them as well. Same result. And, yes, most wildcat load data is bu**sh*t. A chrony usually reveals that most data is optimistic at best and dangerous at worst. Many wildcats were developed at a time when chronys were expensive, elaborate affairs that almost nobody could afford. Now that inexpensive instruments are available the truth comes out. Check out the 'Peak Strain' thread. [This message has been edited by Daryl Elder (edited 01-14-2002).] | ||
one of us |
Hey rufous, I'll take your last paragraph and answer the questions as they came. rufous: So instead of measuring the belt of my 300 Win Mag cases you think it would be best to measure the pressure ring just in front of the belt? rufous: So I run the case through the fl sizer and measure it at the same point (Federal cases so one anvil on the "F") and then fire and measure it at the same place again? Is that right? Also, I've found CHE to only be reliable on shots 2-6 or 8, depending on the strength of the Loads. This does involve a slight "learning curve", but everyone I've taught this method to has understood what is going on after one trip to the Range. By the time they've made 3 trips, they have been able to teach other folks. I do agree with DB Bill concerning this though(as strange as that may seem). I've found people must be intelligent enough to work a "Radio tuning knob" in order for them to be able to do this. And rufous, after seeing your questions, I know you will not have any problem getting these methods to work well for you at all. rufous: Hodgdon manual said 0.0007" on the belt would be considered max. rufous:Would it also be 0.0007" on the pressure ring or back to 0.0005"? What I recommend is for you to fire one box of factory ammo through your firearm, average the PRE for those 20 cases and use that value as your "Comparative Benchmark Standard". Then develop your Loads in those same 20 cases and as long as you do not exceed the Benchmark PRE, your Pressure will be within the limit set "for that Lot of cases" at the factory. PRE is normally reliable for shots 1-6 or 9 depending again on the strength of those Loads. When measuring PRE, rotate the Pressure Ring between the anvils to find the "widest" diameter and use that as your PRE. Go slowly so as not to "force" the Pressure Ring through the anvils. I use the highest measurement that will not allow the case to fall out from between the anvils. After a short while, this goes quicker than you can read it here. Just hold the 0.0001" capable Micrometers in your right hand and support the Case with your left hand while turning it. rufous: If measuring the point just in front of the belt then I would think it would be clear that one would not want to use a new case since they are generally drastically undersized and would expand significantly. So as not to tell you a WHOPPER, after you become REAL FAMILIAR with CHE and PRE, you actually can use "new cases" to develop Loads without ever using a factory round, but that requires a thorough understanding of these methods that only develop over a fairly decent period of time. There are some very subtle measurement indicators that will tell you when to STOP, but they are not for this level of discussion. Just don't concern yourself with "developing Loads" in new Cases for right now with these methods. rufous: So if once fired and fl resized case measures 0.5130" at pressure ring then after firing it should not measure more than 0.5135 or 0.5137" Does this sound right?
------------------ [This message has been edited by Hot Core (edited 01-14-2002).] | |||
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<MePlat> |
I'm still waiting for the ballistic experts on this thread to clue me in as to the correct method for determininmg safe pressure. While not a mental giant I could possible understand if it were worded in simple words without mathamatical equations that are as long as a Sharps long range rifle barrel. In the mean time I will certainly not trust anyone that says anything concerning any loading data in any way until I hear from you guys since the loading books say that their data may not be safe in some rifles or handguns. What do we do? | ||
<Daryl Elder> |
I dunno, take up cooking? It's possible to have a failure with factory ammo in a factory gun. There are no guarantees in life. | ||
one of us |
Get Ken Waters' "Pet Loads" and read his chapter on "Developing Pet Loads" -- he details how to measure the pressure ring and what his standards are for different types of guns & cartridges. My only addition to it is to measure each case at multiple points around the pressure ring since (in my rifles, anyway) the expansion may not be consistent depending on soft spots in the brass and irregularities in the chamber. Waters has been using this method for at least 40 years and hasn't blown himself up. In fact, if you compare his loads to book max loads they're usually the same or a grain less. No method is infallible, anyway. I measure PRE but also shoot the same rounds over the chrono. If I started getting 3200 fps with 180 gr. in the .30-06 I would suspect something was wrong. John | |||
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one of us |
Ray.... a really simple answer. If you want to go faster get a larger case. Trying to measure pressure by using a mic on the case just so you can squeeze the last 20 or 50 fps out of a case is at best poor reloading practice and can be dangerous. Basic rule #1...if you want .300 WinMag velocity out of a .30, don't buy a .308 or .30.06. Buy the Win Mag but then don't try and push that to Weatherby velocity. Basci rule #2...the only way to get "free" velocity is to get a longer barrel. | |||
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one of us |
quote:
Be careful, don't believe everything you read, and figure out for yourself whether it's a worse mistake to load lighter than one needs to or heavier than one should. | |||
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one of us |
Meplat, My apologies. I should have read the whole thread before I answered you. Barring the sacrifice of the appearance of each of your firearms to some sort of a stick-on strain gauge, you are really kind of stuck with loading data from people who DO have pressure-measuring equipment and use it. Art Alphin recommends, for cartridges for which reliable people have produced loading data, not exceeding the velocity achieved by those people. Obviously, you need a chronograph, must correct for barrel length, start from below, panic & back off immediately at any pressure signs, which you can't count on appearing anyway. As far as wildcatting, we know that many people do it, and some sort of extrapolation or, on a good day, interpolation may be done from known safe loads. But if you are asking for a sure safe way for you to wildcat without pressure-measuring equipment, you're asking the wrong question. It's like a plastic surgeon asking for a sure safe way to do facial surgery without anesthesia. It could perhaps be done, but why? It is neither safe nor necessary. This is not intended to badmouth those who do wildcat and know what they are doing. And maybe they will post here all the details of why their particular loads are known to be safe. But if you're looking for signs, I suggest you read Art Alphin's discussion of same in his reloading manual, available from Sinclair. P.S. Obviously, this is a very conservative opinion. You may find one or two posters here who have a diiferent view. But I really think Art knows what he's talking about. Which mistake would you rather make? [This message has been edited by Recono (edited 01-15-2002).] | |||
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one of us |
DB Bill, I was just answering the mans question.. Believe me I don't worry with that stuff, havn't got time..I load up til I get an extractor mark or sticky bolt and back off two grains or until she shoots good. BTW I'm not recommending this practice to anyone else.. ------------------ | |||
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<Slamfire> |
As I understand Water's method, he doesn't use it for measuring chamber pressure, he uses it to judge relative pressures. If his load causes pressure ring expansion in excess of factory ammo, he figures the pressure is higher. He allows that in instances like the standard .257 loads, where the factories never loaded hot. He does not permit it in cartridges like the magnums, where the factories are right up near the SAAMI maximums. It also tells him if he has a batch of "soft" brass, or "soft" primers. Either of which can cause trouble even if actual pressures are below max. I'm using a runout setup so I'm more consistent than I would be with a mike. And I'm not pursuing maximum velocity anyway. If I was I'd get a bigger cartridge to start with. | ||
one of us |
I have something interesting concerning a .30-378 WBY with their factory rounds;180 Barnes X;ejector marks on all their rounds but no stiff lifting bolt;the rounds were shot at no more than 40 F;{chrono 3350f/s}. I know when I reload if I get extractor marks I get also hard bolt lifting,but with the WBY out of the box ammo ,there is something I cannot figure it out;I wonder shooting these ammo at 80 F., what will be the limit that the rifle can take without having hard bolt lifting... | |||
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one of us |
rejPelly, Normally you will get an extractor mark (in a good chamber job) before you get a sticky bolt.... ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
Thanks Ray,I have learnt something new; reloading ;it is a confusing and interesting hobby... | |||
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<Slamhound> |
I get around most of the 'confusion' by staying on the conservative side and try not to push my handloads too hard [and my guns probably appreciate it]. I shoot for the fun of it and even if my bullets are only traveling 3000 fps instead of 3200 fps, i'm still having fun. | ||
<Ken Howell> |
"Well, gun metal fatigues just like brass. Overloading a gun and shooting it, then shooting again, and again with increasing loads until it fails tells you little about the load, and MAYBE a bit about metal fatigue in a gun." Well said. During World War Two, a buddy of mine (sniper) majored in tank crews because there he could get hot German 9mm ammo loaded for the Schmeisser. In his waist band, he carried a British .38 revolver. With a pair of dikes, he raised enough burrs on the rims of that hot 9mm ammo to give them a way to headspace on the rear face of his revolver cylinder. One day, an insistent bowel sent him running into the latrine, where he dropped his trousers and sought relief. The momentarily forgotten revolver dropped to the tile floor -- -- and shattered. | ||
one of us |
Ken;the gun story is something someone should keep in mind;from now on I will reload to get velocity 200 or near below the max.one;with hot loads ,times after times;sooner or later something should or willgive in.I wish keeping my rifle in good shape;reloading light loads I will eliminate the "confusion thing". | |||
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<Paul Dustin> |
I would agree with Ray. When I think my loads are getting hot I start measuring case head or belt. I have been reloading for 27 years and still do it the same. We measure around the case head for the avage. If the case head expansion of .0005 is and indication of high pressure and I back my loads down. | ||
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