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I have been rolling on lube for years....Sprayed enough One Shot to melt a hole in the ozone. I just picked up my first tin of Imperial sizing die wax....Stupid question is how do you use it correctly? ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | ||
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Hey Ted, You can either: run a finger across the top, rub it together with your thumb, then spin a case between the lubed digits...or you can get some on a rag or paper towel and spin a case therein. I love the stuff! Good hunting, Andy ----------------------------- Thomas Jefferson: “To compel a man to furnish funds for the propagation of ideas he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical.” | |||
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You use it kinda like shoe polish: Just run your fingers across the wax and rub it on the case with your fingers. Use it sparingly, and just cover the case with a light film. It's easy to get too much on the case. | |||
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You can also take a standard RCBS lube pad, rub some on it with your fingers and roll the cases on the pad. It does not take much. The Redding lube it the small tin appears to be the same stuff, only green. I ran a tin of Imperial Wax dry a couple of days ago and started using the Redding stuff, cannot tell any difference. DOUBLE RIFLE SHOOTERS SOCIETY | |||
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Do be cautious about getting the Imperial wax on the shoulder of your case as it will give lube dents, especially if it builds up on the interior of the die. Cleaning the die from time-to-time is a good idea. | |||
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Been using Imperial since 1971, my "foster" grandfather was the inventor, and by the way, the name comes from Imperial Margarine, because the first batches were made and sold in empty margarine containers. It is cleaner than any other sizing compound, and you just wipe a little bit on with your fingers, and I do mean a little. DrMike is quite right about the lube dints, and cleaning any die is a good idea from time to time. At one time Imperial was patented, but the patent is probably long expired by now, thus the Redding compound may be the same or nearly so. I still have a lifetime supply of the original. LLS | |||
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I lay down a bunch on an RCBS lube pad, a couple of sweeps with a med to small paint brush, roll together a few times and they are ready. The wax works way better than the lube oil. Shoulder dents have dissapeared since I switched over to using wax. Savage Vaporizer | |||
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Finally a good use for the RCBS pads!! | |||
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I do the same thing only I smear some of it on the pad then spread it around with a flat blade knife (back side of a hacksaw blade works fine), work it in and than scrape off the excess and put it back in the can. | |||
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As someone said above a little bit goes a long way. I have over half a can left after doing probably 100,000 cases. Since I have the very good Forster stuck case remover, a long time ago I decided to see just how much or little IMP was really needed to lube a .223 case and a .30-06 case. The answer was--about 1/10 of what I originally used. Using the IMP along with the Forster neck graphiter works great and it's not nearly as messy as rolling cases in the other gunk and there's no wasted spray floating around the bench. You will want to be sure to clean your FL die after EACH use. I find that brake parts cleaner works quite well. Be sure not to spray it on any plastic accessories that may be nearby. If the enemy is in range, so are you. - Infantry manual | |||
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Great point for amamnn about using the graphite applicator. When I switched to using graphite on my case necks a huge amount of hate and discontent went away!!!! LLS | |||
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Ditto what's been said about rubbing the index finger across the top of the wax, then spinning the case body only around the thumb and forefinger. A little dab will do ya, keeping it off the case shoulder. After doing that, I dip the neck in some powdered graphite so it's lubed. Don | |||
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