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Hello all, New to reloading and I sorta am ramping up to start reloading for the 6.5x55 swede. I have the Lymans 49th edition book. The reason that I wanted to get into reloading is so that I can load for my swede. I have a cz 550 in 6.5x55, so modern loads are what I am looking for. But, if I am reading the data correct, the Lymans is sorta "downloaded" in all bullet weights. Also, using my googl-fu, I have seen that it seems that most manuals have reduced loads for the 6.5x55. My question is this: Which reloading manual should I look for that gives realistic loading data for this round? I know that I need to get more than one manual, but I would like to get one that will allow me to use the full potential of this round. Thanks in advance. | ||
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kruger You will find most manuals have loads with lower pressures due to the huge numbers of old military rifles and commercial 96 actions that are out there. Check out the latest Nosler manual. They have slightly higher velocities listed for the Swede. There is also quite a difference in case capacity from some European made cases to some American made cases. Be careful mixing brass. I would suggest you pick up a good supply of brass ( a couple hundred at least) so you have the same brass to work up loads. In a modern rifle you should be able to work up loads the same as any other calibre if you watch for signs of increasing pressure, such as flattened or cratered primers, stiff bolt lift or extractor marks on the case head. If you do work up some + pressure loads that work well in your modern rifle you must take extra care that this ammo never gets mixed up and fired in an older military rifle. Hope that helps | |||
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Thanks for the info Snowman. Originally, I got in 200 rounds of PPU to shoot. And, I am keeping the brass to reload. Being new to reloading, I am kinda hesitant on going outside the reloading data, cuz, I dont know what I am doing, or can get away with. Not enough experience just yet. However, I have been trying to gather up as much info as I can, and on several forums, I have noticed that it was mentioned that the newer data that is in the reloading manual is different from the previous versions manual. Not trying to go outside of parameters, and I do understand that the manuals have to CYA, for legal purposes, but I am looking for printed data for this round that I can use. And, I have heard that there is data that is meant for Modern made guns, but have yet found it. | |||
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THanks postoak. Got any more links? Really looking for 125 grain and 140 | |||
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One thing you MUST do is use your reloading manual as a guide to good sense. If you read about someones load on such and such forum you are flirting with disaster. That load should be verifiable with documented printed information somewhere. Bullet manufacturers and powder manufacturers publish this information. Once you gain an abundance of experience you are able to tell if a load someone posts on the internet "sounds too good to be true" and I must admit I've seen a few and in some instances I've seen people days or weeks later recant their "pet load" and say "oops I meant RL15 instead of RL19 or 46 grains instead of 56" or something like that. I've been reloading since I was 14 years old and am nearly 54 now and I still always refer to my Sierra reloading manual or the link below. Sierra and Nosler manuals show load data for modern rifles. http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/ | |||
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The first thing I would figure out is why you are reloading. If it is for more speed, accuracy, cost, what? I go for accuracy first, so the "modern" loads may, or may not, be what I am looking for. I always start with the "old fart" loads and work up from there. I found that in my 6.5x55, I just couldn't bring myself to keep going after I found a load that shot about half an inch consistently. It is on the low end of what Hodgdon says with IMR4831 powder. I just couldn't get past it. It took a nice hog at 200 yards for me, so I just consider that a win. If I need more, I buy a bigger gun.  That's part of the fun, although it does have me in a bind with the wife sometimes. Things like "Why did you buy the 264Win Mag? You already have the 6.5x55, 260, 6.5x284 and 6.5-06AI?" And she has the audacity to think the 100 fps is not worth it. I agree with Snellstrom. Get and use all the books you can. Like him, I go to my Sierra first. Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
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Multiple manuals (spanning decades) is how I approach reloading. Read, compare and read some more to verify. You cannot just grab an old manual and look at load data for a given cartridge ! Some of the older manuals did NOT distinguish b/w the 4831s,4350s,4895s,4064s and others in the cartridge section. 4831---I or H ? The answer is in the manual---somewhere ! Also understand that some powders have changed w/ time---H 4831 for example. | |||
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Speer and Nosler both load to 50K CUP which is above the 46K CUP std. Both recommend their loads only be used in modern rifles There may be others but I'm sure of these two. ------------------------------------ The trouble with the Internet is that it's replacing masturbation as a leisure activity. ~Patrick Murray "Why shouldn`t truth be stranger then fiction? Fiction after all has to make sense." (Samual Clemens) "Saepe errans, numquam dubitans --Frequently in error, never in doubt". | |||
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I used the 6.5X55 in a Sako & in a Winchester action for a fair while and I had the same issues that you face. The best bullet for hunting are any TSX, Nosler Part 125 gr & Hornady 129 gr or 139 gr sp & Hornady 160 gr RN The best powders I found were ADI 2209 (H4350) & VV N160. I used Lapua cases. I worked up loads using a chronograph - 125 gr - max 2950 fps (very similar long range results to a 270 Win!. 129 gr bullet - 2900 fps. 139 gr bullets - 2750 fps. The 160 gr RN gave 2600 fps with N160. I used to get 10 reloads per lot of cases with partial FL sizing to fit the particular rifle before I retired the cases. "When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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Thanks for the info guys. I am new, but, not gonna do anything that will put myself in danger. Old enough to know that in this particular hobby, mistakes have dire consequences. I know the dangers of this, but I do want the option of stretching out my rifle, if I need to. | |||
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See Atkinson's comment on the 7x57 thread below this thread. Totally apropos.  rogerOld age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone.. | |||
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THanks Bart. An enlightening read. | |||
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 Your choice of the 6.5X55 is a good one and hard to beat in the lower 48.Your search for a safe, higher pressure load than presented in most manuals for this cartridge is reasonable if you have a modern rifle that will handle 60,000 PSI safely . When you are ""working up"" such loads hear is some information that will come in handy.  The 6.5X55 case measurements vary substantially from one manufacturer to another . There is an indication here that their case capacities may vary meaningfully also. I'll let you determine that.[1]Remington case 172 grains--neck wall thickness .012"--head diameter .474". *[2]PMC case--------182 gr. nwt .009" hd .472". [3]nny case--------183.5 gr. nwt .012" hd .477" [4]Lapua match-----180gr. nwt .015" hd .477" [5]Win ------------175.5 gr. nwt .013" hd .470" [6]Bosnian---------177/174 gr nwt .009" hd .475" [7]Federal---------184gr. nwt .014" hd .475"/.473" [8] Norma----------180/177 gr. nwt .015" hd .478" [9] CBC------------176.5gr. nwt .011" hd .475" This is not being given to you to scare you. When you are working up near max and max loads for one manufacturers cases you should now be cognoscente that your load most likely WILL NOT BE THE SAME in another manufacturers cases. The pressures may vary considerably.Hope this helps. rogerOld age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone.. | |||
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Wow, didnt know that there was that much difference between the cases. Right now, all I have is some once fired (by me) PPU brass. Right now, that is all that I foresee until I get some loads started. May get some Lapua in the future. | |||
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Thanks bartsche This is one of the most important to understand aspects of reloading I have seen "shared" on the web in quite a while. I feel that the manuals don't explain this well enough. Most just parrot the "don't change components with out starting load development over" line, without any real explanation as to why. And this is just one component. Thanks again. muck | |||
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 Thanks,Muck rogerOld age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone.. | |||
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a 6.5 swede is a great caliber. My particular favorite loads are a 140 grain bullet (accubond or hornady) with 46 gr of rel 22. shoots a ragged hole in my tikka (and my previous cz550). enjoy a great gun and the fun of reloading. I would start low at 42 grains and slowly work upword to be sure that this load works safely in you gun. Have fun. | |||
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You will have a short road to what you want with Rel 22 and 120 grain nosler BT's No matter where you go or what you do there you are! Yes tis true and tis pity but pity tis, tis true. | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Reloading New to Reloading. Question on 6.5x55 swede
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