Help- I have a 300 Win Mag. new to me. glass bedded- free floated. 4-12x Nikon- 165 gr speer, shoots all over at 100yds. 4 in. One round from a cold barrel right on second round 1 in. left 3 doen, 3rd round somewhere else. Checked screws- mounts. I am confused- never had this happen in 50 years. Suggestions.

Easy, change bullets, both size and brand. The barrel will eventually tell what it likes. Look at powders next. Good shooting.

Try another scope to verify Nikon is good.....try another handload....Speer 165 flats ? Try some other bullets....boat tails fly flatter than flats....

Dick,
What type of action, what is the barrel contour, what type of stock? Need some more information. Also, I have never had very good luck with 165 gr. bullets in a .300 win mag. Try some 180 gr, maybe a factory load like Federal Premium and see what they do.

Good Morning,
More info- sorry about that. Action is a 770 Winchester, Stock is Wood (glass bedded. Barrel is standard contour. I had been loading 71.5 grains of H100V vith a COL of 3.34 as recommended. Am looking at some speer 180 SP I have on the shelf powder is a question. As for the scope this is the second one and with the other -same results . What would be IYO best powders- The 300 Win. Mag is new to me.
Thanks
Dick

I just helped a friend with a load development in his 300 win. He wanted to use a monometal so we used the 180 grain TTSX. We worked an Audette's ladder with IMR 4831 and found a charge weight that gave him .5 moa @ 200 yds out of his Rem M700. His rifle is box stock other than a trigger job that breaks like glass at 3.5 lbs. I agree with Pagosawingnut that you should try bullets 180 grains or higher.

Good luck

Some good responses here. I too, would suggest trying the 180 Speer's or maybe some 180 Sierra's in the rifle.

For powders, the 300 Win Mag rifles I have messed with shot best with either H 4831 or H 4350.

I shot lots of stuff with a 300 Win Mag loaded with H 4831 and the Sierra 180 Pro Hunter. Never had to chase anything.

And not to be insulting, but you say the gun is new to you, is it clean? I recently agreed to mount a scope and sight in a rifle for a friend and could not believe how dirty the barrel was, it took me all morning to get that gun clean.

sounds like a new barrel to me

I understand the cleaning bit and no offense taken- worked a long tme to get the "stuff" out of the brl. Am in the process of loading the 180's have both SP and some mag tip. H4831 SC will be the powder. New WW cases- as I have never used Mag primers would they be a necessity?

I always have better luck with 180s in any of my 30 cals. assuming its a 1 in 10.

Did YOU check to be sure of free-float?

Dick
Several things to check. First, since the rifle has been off the stock, make sure the bedding screws are torqued to 40 inch/pounds. That is the figure that Winchester recommends for their wooden and non aluminum bedded synthetic stocks. I personally like the 165 gr bullets but have found that they need to be either a Hornady GMX or a Barnes TSX to get any kind of accuracy in a .300 Win Mag. Normally the rate of twist is more suited to a 180 gr.
doesn't sound like a scope problem.
We tried light for caliber bullets in different rifles, such as a 350 gr in a .458 Win Mag or Lott. Looked like I was shooting a shotgun. 4 to 6" groups at 50 yards. We did get, with a LOT of experimenting a couple of groups to shoot 2-3" at 100 yards but nothing I'd take home to mom. The 165 gr will shoot marvelously in a .30-06 but lacking in a .300
Hope this helps

Thanks - many good ideas and all winter to work on them. Have not checked the torque fp. Will do. Is it floated Yes did it myself - and this is not the first.

Does anyone out there use the Hornaday O.A.L. gauge? The books recommend a 3.34 OAL but the gauge shows more. What is being used out there as set back from rifling? Most of the other guns work well with .020, and barnes wants .050 what's being used with the 300? Will check on Wed. for some GMX 180's. I use the 139's in a 7MM Mag and they SHOOT.
Thanks again for the input.
Dick

try a hornady 190 grn over 81 grn.H1000 and a fed.215 mag primer

You needn't abandon the 165 Gr. bullets just because one combination doesn't work . If you're going to get some 4831 , give it a try with the 165s , at a few different charges . We have been shooting 165s out of the 300 WM for years with excellent accuracy and performance . My powder of choice is IMR-4350 at around 70 Grs. = 3,000 FPS .

quote:

I had been loading 71.5 grains of H100V vith a COL of 3.34 as recommended

Dick, It doesn't sound like you've done a proper load work up for your rifle.

Did you start with 71.5gr of 100v? That should be pretty close to a max load.

If you have a specific bullet you would like to try, load up 3 or 4 different powders in .5 grain increments, starting 10% below the recommended max load.

Classic powders for the 300 WM and a 180gr bullet include, IMR7828sc, RL22, H1000, and H4831sc.

I had the exact problem with my Model 700 chambered in the .300 Win. Mag.

I did something that I normally do not do but I changed two variables at the same time. I bought a higher quality scope than what was currently on the rifle and I installed a McMillan stock.

The next time I went to the range the rifle shot well and more importantly to me the point of impact moved correspoding to the windage and elevation adjustments of the scope. Unfortunately, I do not know what corrected the problem.

Just went through the same problem myself, and not just on a new gun to me but a new gun period. And to beat it all it was a 700 5R 300WM.......well known model known for good accuracy. Not mine though, 3 inch groups right out of the box but I did find other issues too. I sent the gun back to Remington twice in 3 weeks with chamber and extractor issues......I was pissed, Remington's QC sucks big time now and I hate to say that as I have always been a Model 700 fan.This is the first gun I have ever had to send back and even had to send it twice.......and this is a $1K+ special-run model!

After sending the rifle back twice and having the chamber burnished, chamber polished, barrel hand-lapped, and extractor repaired it is doing better. But, I am not happy with the fact that this gun is really favoring heavy bullets (200+ Gr) way over any others. All the other 300WM 700's I have dealt with in the past would shoot 165 grain bullets well under MOA.

Sll
If you have access to a inch/pound torque wrench, you might try experimenting with the bedding screws a bit. I believe that the stock on that model comes from Bell & Carlson and they recommend 50 inch/pounds of torque on both screws. If it doesn't change, what I have found to work is to take the front bedding screw up one inch/pound at a time and pretty soon, you should see the groups get smaller and smaller. If that doesn't work, torque them both to 50 in/lbs and try backing the back screw off one in/lb at a time. One of these ways will get you to a much better place. Also might help to try some of the Federal Gold Medal match 190 gr ammo while you are doing that.

It took me a while to find a load sutiable for my 300 mag browning a-bolt. 180 nosler bolistic tip with 76gr. of reloader 22. it shoots 3 shot groups at 100 that you can cover up with a dime. but you better hold on

Pagos....I know where you are coming from as I also had to remove the stock for a better fit on the magazine box from the factory also and re-torqued them properly. My accuracy was not a mount or bedding issue, it came with an out-of-round chamber and chatter marks from the reamer. Fire-formed brass to the rifle would not re-chamber most of the time. I was going to have to FL Re-size everytime without it being straightened out and the rifling was rough when running patches through after thoroughly cleaning. The bolt sliding in the action is "gritty" feeling also.......just a bad, bad QC issue from Remington. Today's actions are nowhere near the butter smooth ones back in the '70's.

I have gotten some good groups since getting it back. I did shoot a .385" at 100 yards with 168 grain Bergers, but cannot do a 1/2 MOA with that load every range trip. It REALLY likes 208 grain A-Maxes every trip though.

sll,
Is it possible that the rate of twist for the 5R barrels is different from the standard rot for the .300 win mag? My .308 5R barrel is the easiest barrel I own to clean. Not a rough spot in it.

No, it is 1:10. It is easy to clean, but it was also easy to foul. It was just one of those barrels that after it was squeaky clean, you could push a snug oily patch through it and feel tight spots at certain distances. Mine is much smoother now after they hand lapped it. Trust me, this thing had major issues when I first got it. Remington has got it going in the right direction now, but only after I sent it back twice. This must have been one that was made on a Monday AM or Friday PM .

When a rifle shoots as you describe then it's time to get out the hair dryer and remove all the glass bedding and rebed the rifle..That is the problem....Not saying you can't find a load that shoots OK in it as is, but all loads should shoot well in a proper rifle, with less than a inch differnce in accuracy between the worst and the best loads IMO..I would not let a rifle leave my shop that shot like yours is shooting..A good gun should shoot any load to 2 inches max. and should shoot some to an inch or better with 3 shots at least.

Ray
Thanks for the info. When the wife left she took the hair dryer and being mostly bald I have no use for one. Suppose I'll have to hit the big box store and get one. Or is there another way to remove the bedding. Never thought of bedding as a problem area in the past but this rifle seems to be a whole different ball game. I have used J-B weld, acuragleass and other forms of epoxy to bed- never had a problem in the past. What do you use?

Thanks again
Dick

Dick,
I mostly use Marine Tex but Brownells Accraglass is good as is Devcon.

I don't use screws to tighten it up as that can create a bind, just force the barrel action down with your hands and let it settle in or you can use those latex bands on the rear tang and put a bit of weight on the barre in front of the forend.

On a m-70 put a layer of tape on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug so that you only get contact on the rear of the lug.

Ray

I have been using the tape trick for years. Where can I find marine tex. I used that stuff years ago to fix the engine block on an inboard engine. The boat shop I worked at in the summers had it but I don't know where to find some.

I use surgical tubing to hold stuff in place.

Will try your method- sound good.

Thankx
Di9ck