For those that cast your own......where do you get lead?....how do you measure it's hardness? Do you add antimony? Who is your preferred supplier of tools, molds, furnaces, lube etc.?

Vapo, over the years I have accumulated lead/wheel weights/linotype, and pure lead from a number of sources. I still have a friend in LA that is holding 1k of wheel weights for me (and maybe more) for 500 lbs of linotype. A buddy and I bought out a print shop in Central TX about five years ago and split a bit over 8k of lino, so I am somewhat set in that regard.

There are still smelters that will alloy what you want, but it can get expensive.

I have been casting since 1980 and have almost every mould I can see myself ever needing. That doesn't mean, however, that I won't pick up a mould off ebay or some other site if I see something I need.

Lubes I buy from Thompson, and I use Red Angel. I make my own muzzleloader lube.

My casting pots are an RCBS Pro-Melt for bottom pour, and an old Ohio Thermal that I converted to a ladle pot. (Ohio Thermal became the Pro-Melt...).

And as far as alloy goes, many years ago I read where (I believe) Dean Grennell said that seven lbs. of wheel weights to one lb. of linotype made a very versatile alloy, useful for just about any handgun application. I have used that recommendation for years.

There is a cast bullet forum just down the page a bit. Most of us use wheel weights with pure lead from roofing and or plumbing or linotype to get our required alloy but rotometals has all the verified alloys. There is a world of difference between alloy hardness and toughness and for some application the need is different even though the BHN may be the same for each. You might be best of visiting the http://castboolits.gunloads.com/ where there is a wealth of knowledge and component sources, even though many of the forum members (past and present) visit here as well.

Vapo - this is about the best starting place for learning about cast bullets

Los Anglese Silhouette Club

Next is CastBoolits web site.

Most of my lead came from wheel weights, lead pipe, roof flashing and plumbers lead.
One very key metal is tin and I got that from 60-40 solder and lead free solder which is mostly tin.

I only use two alloys.
1. Wheel weights plus 2% tin
2. 20 parts lead 1 part tin

My equipment came from all over.
Furnaces, sizers, dies, molds from Craig's list, E-bay and Grafs and gunshows.
Bullet lube from White Label lube.
Hardness tester is a long discontinued LBT that I got cheap on Ebay.
For 20-1 lead for a BPCR you do not need a hardness tester. Just mix the alloy right cast and shoot.
For wheel weights and other 3 part alloys you can learn to test with your thumb nail - but you almost need a tester to learn with.
I never add antimony. Antimony comes in wheel weights. If you want better control of your metal lurk over at cast bullets - they have several sources of alloys including Roto Metals.
I don't think Roto Metals has the best prices these days though.

For run of the mill moulds you can pick them up at Graf's or ebay but there are a lot of crappy molds out there. Many were produced by Lyman.
Lee molds can be used for some applications. Some folks like them and others hate them.
I use a few.
A often big step up in quality from Lyman and Lee are RCBS and Redding-Saeco molds.
However you have to be careful even with these. There is no guarantee they will be a good fit with your land and groove dimensions.
For a premium rifle such as a quality BPCR or Schutzen rifle many people buy custom molds.
Two of the best are Steve Brooks and Paul Jones.

There are a couple of other custom mold makers.
You need to do a good bit or research to make sure you get a good mold with some of them.

With Paul Jones and Steve Brooks I believe they will hold your hand if you ask them enough questions. Supply them with a neck and throat cast and they can make you a superb mold.

If you use scrap metals you will need two different melters. One for the dirty work of smelting the dirty scrap into ingots. Many people use a cast iron dutch oven and a turkey fryer for this.

The actual casting furnace is smaller and should be kept cleaner than you can manage with the smelting operation.

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
For those that cast your own......where do you get lead?....how do you measure it's hardness? Do you add antimony? Who is your preferred supplier of tools, molds, furnaces, lube etc.?

thanks for the feedback guys.....it seems I have a lot to learn again.....and that's half the fun of something new.

Hello Vapo,
The primary thing to learn with casting is to not get caught up in the infinetesimal BS that some of the guys love.
1. You can do very well with only 2 or 3 alloys.
If you are shooting rifles and hand guns there may be a way to use the same alloy in both.
Learn the simple easy to use alloys and forget the rest.
2. Don't get rolled up in endless experimentation with bullet lubes. The current methods for developing them are not scientific and mostly waste a lot of time. There are a few tried and test lubes that work. Buy them and used them.
3. Learn to fit the bullet to the gun barrel.
4. Don't try to drive the bullets to fast.
5. Start out learning with cast bullet friendly rounds.
6. Keep in mind that many people case only for handguns. Others cast only for rifles. The two groups argue about things they do different.
It is really two different applications.

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:
thanks for the feedback guys.....it seems I have a lot to learn again.....and that's half the fun of something new.

I get lead and tin from RotoMetals. RCBS and Buffalo Arms make nice molds, I have 2 RCBS lubrisizers, and Lyman melting pots.

Vapo,
As with everything it depends on what you will use the bullets for. Are you casting for rifle? Pistol? Hunting? Plinking? Target?
When I used to shoot handgun metallic silhouette with a 357 MAX revolver I settled on a gas checked pure wheel weight load. For plinking I use light loads with pure wheel weight. You don't have to go crazy on alloys unless minutiae floats your boat or the application demands it.
I use an RCBS Pro Melt and RCBS molds have served me well.

Vapo,

I did a bit of casting with my father in the 70's and 80's. For various and sundry reasons I have started to look into casting again. I hit all of the tire shops in town and nearby. All of them, even the smaller locally owned shops, were unwilling to sell. Since I live near the coast it seems that most shops willing to part with wheel weights have a well established consumer in the fishing sinker business. Businesses in general are keeping tighter reins on lead I am sure due to regulatory activity and liability.

I sure miss the good ole days when they would give you a 5 gal. bucket for free if you carried it out of the shop. I am curious to know how you lead scrounging works out for you.

Eric