quote:

DavidReed

You don’t need the decapping-pin in the stem to do this. The threaded stem that holds the expander ball and pin is sufficient to do this maneuver to push the case out of the die.

David,
My apologies. I was thinking "primer removal" and you are talking about "case removal". The case in the pics looks very firmly stuck in the die to me. Do you think your method would work for sure ?

That case is fully in the resizing die so cutting the head off is only going to take what is left of the rim and a bit of the case head at the extractor groove. It is not going to cut the solid base of the case off just leaving the thin walls which could be collapsed easily enough allowing the case to fall free.

I doubt that screwing the thin decapping rod down to try and push the stuck case clear will work either as that case is well stuck with the rim ripped off by the shell holder, indicating a well stuck case.

Use Imperial Wax resizing lube and you will not get a case stuck in a die.

The primer needs to be fired, drilled out and the case head tapped with a 1/4" UNC tap, then the case pulled from the die with a 1/4" bolt and washer packers as suggested already by some.

Primers are hard to deactivate with oil, water etc, and you will not know it has been deactivated until you attempt to drill, hit with hammer and nail or some other method of firing the primer.

If it were me I would back the decapping rod out leaving the resizing spud about halfway in the case i.e. not sealing the case neck, place the die upside down in a vice, hold a nail with pliers and hit the primer with the nail - BUT before hitting the nail wrap everything up in a thick towel including the vice, nail, etc. Wear gloves and safety glasses. Flatten the nail tip slightly to ensure a good strike on the primer anvil.
If the primer fires it will travel up the nail hitting the plier jaws, the reason you do not hold a nail in your fingers.

In my gunsmithing days I have had to adapt to some tricky situations some shooters have got their firearms into including one with a live cartridge stuck in a rifle chamber, the extractor ripped over the head of the cartridge and the owner getting a stick broken and jammed down the barrel in the field followed by a cleaning rod also broken and jammed in the barrel when he got home. Successfully removed everything without damaged to me or the rifle.

I'M too lazy to read the whole thread, but you might try removing the adjustment/locking nuts from the recapping stem and pounding the shit outa the decapping stem and buying a new one for $6-7.00 dollars.

Hip

I think rcraig and chuck nelson hit it right on the head...buy a new die.

quote:

Originally posted by 30.06king:

quote:

buffybr
posted 03 October 2022 05:57
After reading this thread yesterday I was reloading some .257 AI shells for my upcoming antelope hunt next week.

After cleaning and sizing the brass I noticed two shells with a crack in the case mouths so I went ahead and primed them, then squirted WD 40 in the cases and let them sit overnight.

Before chambering the cases I poured the excess WD 40 out of them. THEY BOTH FIRED!

Wow ! DPCD is right again ! I had always believed oil contact would kill primers. Thanks for invalidating this with your experiment.

Yeah, DPCD doesn't post incorrect info. I can't say the same for some others on this forum who always seem to come up with "real-life experiences" that prove some stuff that is beyond belief.

Saeed has mentioned that he has done several tests and it seemed that nothing can reliably kill primers. As I recall he filled primed cases with all different kinds of solvents and penetrating oils(Kroil, WD40, etc), and all(or most) primers fired.

quote:

Originally posted by 2152hq:

OR,,Here's another idea.

Again lock the die in a bench vise horizontal.
Prop a propane torch so that the pinpoint flame just touches the primer itself..
Light that baby up,,and leave the room.
It'll take 15 or more seconds of direct flame to detonate the primer.
But you will be safely out of the room so nothing can dent you.

We took many stuck live rounds out of Milsurps that way back in the 60's and 70's.
A number of them M/Nagants that seemed to stick their steel cased ammo quite often.
Just the bbl'd action set on a berm with the torch proped up to set the tip of the flame up and inside the breech onto the primer/casehead.

The case would blow out the back,,the bullet exit the muzzle.

Am I understanding correctly: igniting the primer would force the bullet to exit after traveling the length of the barrel, and it would blow the stuck case free of the chamber?

I am astounded if this is correct, because I would think that either the case or the bullet would exit, but not both. IE, if the case blew out of the chamber I would have thought that there would not be enough pressure to force the bullet down the barrel. I guess the forces are more instantaneous than I had thought.

quote:

Originally posted by JBrown:

quote:

Originally posted by 30.06king:

quote:

buffybr
posted 03 October 2022 05:57
After reading this thread yesterday I was reloading some .257 AI shells for my upcoming antelope hunt next week.

After cleaning and sizing the brass I noticed two shells with a crack in the case mouths so I went ahead and primed them, then squirted WD 40 in the cases and let them sit overnight.

Before chambering the cases I poured the excess WD 40 out of them. THEY BOTH FIRED!

Wow ! DPCD is right again ! I had always believed oil contact would kill primers. Thanks for invalidating this with your experiment.

Yeah, DPCD doesn't post incorrect info. I can't say the same for some others on this forum who always seem to come up with "real-life experiences" that prove some stuff that is beyond belief.

Saeed has mentioned that he has done several tests and it seemed that nothing can reliably kill primers. As I recall he filled primed cases with all different kinds of solvents and penetrating oils(Kroil, WD40, etc), and all(or most) primers fired.

I've said exactly the same thing in my post above re trying to deactivate primers. No matter what method you attempt you will never know if you have deactivated a primer until you try picking it out, drilling it, hitting with nail, etc., etc.
NEVER assume a primer has been deactivated until it has a good pin strike and won't fire or it has fired.

A primer in an empty case is not a bomb, I would have had it safely fired, as explained how in my post above, and the case removed from the die in a matter of minutes, not 15 posts and 15 days later.
Scrapping the die and purchasing another, jeez what next.

Just use some common sense and cover the hammer, nail, pliers and die with a large folded up towel, and wear gloves and safety glasses.

We happily pull the trigger on cartridges in guns generating 40,000 to 65,000+ psi hoping like hell everyone along the way of manufacturing the steel, the gun and the ammo has done their job properly and everything holds together.

quote:

Originally posted by JBrown:

quote:

Originally posted by 2152hq:

OR,,Here's another idea.

Again lock the die in a bench vise horizontal.
Prop a propane torch so that the pinpoint flame just touches the primer itself..
Light that baby up,,and leave the room.
It'll take 15 or more seconds of direct flame to detonate the primer.
But you will be safely out of the room so nothing can dent you.

We took many stuck live rounds out of Milsurps that way back in the 60's and 70's.
A number of them M/Nagants that seemed to stick their steel cased ammo quite often.
Just the bbl'd action set on a berm with the torch proped up to set the tip of the flame up and inside the breech onto the primer/casehead.

The case would blow out the back,,the bullet exit the muzzle.

Am I understanding correctly: igniting the primer would force the bullet to exit after traveling the length of the barrel, and it would blow the stuck case free of the chamber?

I am astounded if this is correct, because I would think that either the case or the bullet would exit, but not both. IE, if the case blew out of the chamber I would have thought that there would not be enough pressure to force the bullet down the barrel. I guess the forces are more instantaneous than I had thought.

It worked,,and it worked many times over.
Stuck loaded rounds removed from rifle chambers.

I believe the reason it worked is because the case was jammed in the bbl in each instance. Stuck real good...rim ripped off from attemps to remove it.

That jammed in place case provided a (IMO unscientific mind) a sort of locked breech for an instant for the pressure to build to a point where the bullet could succesfully exit from the muzzle.
The Case would loosen it's grip from the chamber walls and pop out the of the breech as well.

As noted the fired casing would usually come back out with enough force to damage the torch head that was placed up inside the breech with the pin point flame on the case head.

quote:

Originally posted by JBrown:

quote:

Originally posted by 30.06king:

quote:

buffybr
posted 03 October 2022 05:57
After reading this thread yesterday I was reloading some .257 AI shells for my upcoming antelope hunt next week.

After cleaning and sizing the brass I noticed two shells with a crack in the case mouths so I went ahead and primed them, then squirted WD 40 in the cases and let them sit overnight.

Before chambering the cases I poured the excess WD 40 out of them. THEY BOTH FIRED!

Wow ! DPCD is right again ! I had always believed oil contact would kill primers. Thanks for invalidating this with your experiment.

Yeah, DPCD doesn't post incorrect info. I can't say the same for some others on this forum who always seem to come up with "real-life experiences" that prove some stuff that is beyond belief.

Saeed has mentioned that he has done several tests and it seemed that nothing can reliably kill primers. As I recall he filled primed cases with all different kinds of solvents and penetrating oils(Kroil, WD40, etc), and all(or most) primers fired.

I've done pretty much the same testing myself. Some died, some lived. No guarantees.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Of course some of you have done all manner of marginally safe (and patently unsafe) things, like speeding, drinking, and going out with married women, as I do regularly. Laws of safety do not apply to me; however, I still advise everyone else not to try anything except sit on their couch and watch TV. Some guys seem to attract disaster and I don't want to be responsible.
I guarantee that if some guys try to pop a primer, that 2% of them will end up with a primer in their face.

Snort!!!!!

.

quote:

Originally posted by Kolo-Pan:
I know what I am going to try.

I am going to get a long thin piece of steel rod and grind one end down to somewhat resemble a firing pin.

Then set up the die in a vice.

The rig up the rod to be right next to the primer.

Then put a rather large piece of steel plate (courtesy of my friend at an auto repair shop) between me and the die,

Then hit the rod onto the primer with a hammer while I am protected behind the steel plate.

Then use my RCBS stuck case removal kit to get that brass case out of the die.

Then go from there.


Thank you very much to everyone for your suggestions. I appreciate it,

Haven't heard from you as to how you got on removing the stuck case? Hope silence is not indicating you blew yourself up
Always good to get feedback on problems solved?

I have an old RCBS stuck case remover and it really works, but for years we poured oil in the dye to soak the primer for awhile and then drilled the the primer out on the lath, inserted a threaded screw and pulled it out. Thats what everyone did, the primers never popped..My gunsmith did one that way yesterday..

All this stuff may or may not work, but my contention is why not use the old RCBS stuck case remover, set it up and using a Cresent wrench push the stuck case out of the die..Oh so much simpler...

quote:

Originally posted by Kolo-Pan:
'Hope silence is not indicating you blew yourself up"

No I didn't blow myself up. Still studying the problem before I attempt my idea.

I have a stuck case remover but it cannot be used if the primer is stuck in the case!!!!

I wonder about putting the whole thing in a bunch of newspapers and lighting on fire (after I run away. Once the primer is blown many different things can be attempted.

Are you for real?

quote:

Originally posted by Kolo-Pan:
'Hope silence is not indicating you blew yourself up"

No I didn't blow myself up. Still studying the problem before I attempt my idea.

I have a stuck case remover but it cannot be used if the primer is stuck in the case!!!!

I wonder about putting the whole thing in a bunch of newspapers and lighting on fire (after I run away. Once the primer is blown many different things can be attempted.

JFC, it's not like studying for a COVID test.

OMG!!! I'm tired of reading all this nonsense; Send the die to me and I will remove the case for you. And no, do not set newspapers on fire; that is just crazy.
Also, just because some guys drilled into primers, please don't do that either.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
OMG!!! I'm tired of reading all this nonsense;

I know what you mean, it's a tough job sometimes, but somebody's got to do it.

I know; I'm not really tired of it; I still read the threads for entertainment. It's just that I could have fixed this die on day one in literally 4 minutes, but here were are months later, still agonizing over it.

"Send the die to me and I will remove the case for you" "I still read the threads for entertainment"

"Sending" it anywhere with a live primer is "entertainment". I'm done fooling around with it.

quote:

Originally posted by Kolo-Pan:
"Send the die to me and I will remove the case for you" "I still read the threads for entertainment"

"Sending" it anywhere with a live primer is "entertainment". I'm done fooling around with it.

Ammo with live primers is sent anywhere and everywhere all the time. What's the difference ?You better get back to your studies.

Ive not read the entire thread. I am mostly puzzled how one gets a PRIMED case stuck in a die??? Ive had plenty spent cases stuck in a sizing die, but the only die my primed cases ever see is a bullet seating die. What am I missing?

You're not missing much. I myself was a bit confused about it also am still not sure what his intentions were. I just gathered that he was afraid of a catostrofic explosion of some sort short of leveling his neighbor hood and I'm still not so sure he isn't still on the fence about how to deal with it.

Y’all’s been duped. Why did Kevin-kolo-lindy-22wrf remove all of his posts…? Because the premise of this topic was abject fucking bullshit from the get go.

Prove us wrong Kevin and send that die to DCPD… No one will hold their breath.

P.S. Is the burning newspaper Shtick what you did to the action you tried to sell Kobe?…

THA_THA_THA_THAT's ALL FOLKS!

Time to move on!!!

Hip

this is nonsence, save the world, take it too your gunsmith..Mine charged me $10.00 and coffee.

I recall a tool that mechanics use on brakes or wheels we used to use them..and they worked very well indeed...You sawed the case head off, inserted the tool in the case, turned it tight and pulled the brass out slicker n snot..I can,t for the life of me recall the name of the tool,, help me out on this somebody.I lost mine and never replaced it as the old RCBS tool worked and I had one of those also.

Im not satisfied with the new stuff, it just doesn't seem to work and its over engineered by bean counters..BTW a 45 or 50 caliber brass bore brush usually works pulling a blown in half case out of the chamber or die. push it in and pull it out..same principle as the tool..

These are yesterdays options and work with stuck cases with or witwithout primers or blown cases in your rifle chamber or dies..For what its worth??

Do I correctly remember reading something about a hydraulic method with oil and a ram rod?

Make a shallow cut in the side of the case head, 1/3 of the diameter of the case or less, just enough to get levering device into the side of the case.

Turn the decap/expander stem in as far as you can to make the die and expander rod as short as possible to gain clearance.

Screw the die into the press from the inside of the frame so the cut you made is flush with the top of the press frame.

Insert a good strong screwdriver or other levering device into the shallow cut in the case head.

Use the top of the press as a fulcrum and see if the case can be leveraged out of the die.

use a rag between the lever and press to prevent buggering the top of the press.

Like old dogs, this thread should be taken out behind the barn and shot in the head. Done many of them back in the hills; we didn't have no vet or money to pay one. Or like unwanted puppies; put them in a burlap sack and throw them in the pond. Ah, fond childhood memories. Kids now are soft.
As for the hydraulic method; can't use it because the recapping rod in still in there. If it weren't he could just use a punch and drill it out. My offer to remove it stands, but I know he will never send it.

quote:

Originally posted by Timan:
Make a shallow cut in the side of the case head, 1/3 of the diameter of the case or less, just enough to get levering device into the side of the case.

Turn the decap/expander stem in as far as you can to make the die and expander rod as short as possible to gain clearance.

Screw the die into the press from the inside of the frame so the cut you made is flush with the top of the press frame.

Insert a good strong screwdriver or other levering device into the shallow cut in the case head.

Use the top of the press as a fulcrum and see if the case can be leveraged out of the die.

use a rag between the lever and press to prevent buggering the top of the press.

While I suppose anything is worth a try with what available tools you have, you have obviously not attempted to pull bearings or pulleys from shafts where most often any amount of leveraging and pounding will not do the job. Using a proper bearing puller or a similar arrangement to a stuck case puller and items will smoothly be pulled from shafts without buggering anything, just like a stuck case will be removed from a die using a propriety or home made puller such as many have suggested here.
Just has to detonate that live primer, again as many have suggested how, so the case head can be drilled and tapped 1/4" NC.

Of course because the OP thinks he is dealing with a nuclear device on the point of exploding he is not going to listen to anyone here and likely has purchased a new die. His old die and stuck primed case is scheduled for disposal with the next shipment of nuclear waste from his area. Unfortunately the half life of a primed case likely greatly exceeds that of normal nuclear waste so our plant Earth is going to be in danger for the next billions of years. Sadly because I am now 71 years old I don't think I will be around to see the final solution.

Eagle27
My conclusion also

Well its been fun, and fairly worthless thread, well maybe not, depends on the reader..