I went down to the Bass pro shop and bought a lyman. I brought it home and looked through it on the loads i was wanting to load.I also have a 11th edition Speer that I bought at a auction and started matching load data also with Hodgdon off the internet. WEll to my surprise they were different, some was quite abit different with the same load I was wanting to reload. I guess my question would be WHY?
Is it close your eyes and pick the one by chance.lol

Yep, several of the manuals differ a lot.
I think the best guidance is to use good common sense when working up loads, and go with the minimum powder charge for openers.
The reason they differ is because each source uses actions and barrels that differ(Length especially), and data is taken in different environments, using different chronographs.

Yes, that is common in reloading data. It is even possible to find data using the same (or equivalent) components, where the MAX load of manual A is below the MIN load of manual B, say. Go figure...

This reflects the fact that reloading is not an exact science. Even where attempts are being made to be as "scientific" as possible, results differ. Chambers and bores of test barrels differ, powder lots differ - you name it.

So what to do? Most of us try to obtain data for equivalent components from as many sources as possible (2-3-4...), and then we decide on what will be a sensible starting point, and at which point we will DEFINITELY stop. Then we work up from below looking for pressure signs in OUR rifles, with OUR components. Some people are inclined to push boundaries and continue until they see pressure signs (at which point, they are likely well over accepted pressures), and some people stop when they reach their pre-set max.

- mike

Even if all publishers used pressure barrels for all their handloading data (they don't) each would be using different pressure barrels, test equipment, brass, primers, powder, bullets, and loading dies. The Lyman manual is the first best data book an aspiring handloader should own (even before he or she does any other shopping). After that I recommend new handloaders buy the books published by the manufacturers of the bullets they plans to use - especially the premium slugs (Nosler, Barnes, Swift, etc).

Thanks for the responce, now it makes alittle more sence to me. I will do that and find the load that I feel comfortable with. I don't think I would go all the way to the max just don't feel good about doing that.

I once had a nice talk with the head ballistician of Speer once, asked the very same question. It was phrased along the line "Why didn't you include Unique in your new book?"

His answer said it all. "There's only so much room in a book and there are A LOT of powders."

Eric

Some people swear by them and others swear at them.

I've found some of the older ones more interesting although many of those do not have any info on the newer powders.

If you really want to have some fun, get P.O. Ackley's handloading books, vols. I & II from years ago. Just be careful using any of his info with the modern powders. They are out of print, I believe but still provide interesting reading.
Bear in Fairbanks

I read recently that reloading manuals would be more appropriately named "Reloading Reports": "This is what we used and this is what happened."

I couldn't agree more. Some manuals use various factory rifles, some use pressure barrels on universal receivers. Bullets made by different manufacturers vary greatly on how much pressure they will generate leaving the chamber.

Get your hands on as many manuals as you can, and read them all. You will notice that 2 or 3 powders keep showing up more than others. A previous post recommended using the manual from the bullet maker you will use. I concur.

The wide variation in test platforms & exact components used i swhy you see such a wide variation. Some use test barrels, some actual firearms. Every chamber & barrel combo is going to give a slightly diff. response to a given load. The best you can do is use average data from at least two, & three is better, sources. Start in the middle average & work up.

I acquired my first reloading manuals in the 60s.
Listed loads are definitely warmer than those in later editions and has been attributed to lawyeritis or fear of lawsuits.

I've heard it said that provided you use a powder charge that nearly fills the case, you cannot put enough of that powder in the case to blow the gun. I'm talking about rifle rather than handgun ammo.

It takes some experience to be able to detect a flattened from a normal primer as a sign of pressure. Also, with bolt actions, you'll sometimes notice that rounds with excessive pressure result in a more difficult or harder bolt lift.

For anyone wanting/needing to quickly cross
reference what practically every bullet, powder,
and reloading company has tested and come up
with loads, check this out:

http://www.loaddata.com/home/i...730&CFTOKEN=72355018

The volume of powder is hidden until you
subscribe, but you can still see just how
many thousands of loads they have available.

Yes, it costs about thirty bucks, but imagine how
much it would cost to buy all those manuals. And
there are also many more loads than these
companies had room for in their manuals.

www.ammoguide.com has over 21,000 loads for 750-some cartridges. They have several hundred each for .223, .308, .30-06, .45ACP and many, many others. Chances are they have your cartridge and more than a few tested loads for many different weights of bullets for that cartridge. Just $18 a year and so very worth it. Oodles of info there. I'm a member on my second scrip. Love it...

Always start with minimum and work your way up. I usually go with the data from the same company that makes the projectile. Lyman is a good book though because it uses everyones components.

It's a great time for reloaders, isn't it? IMO. the web benefits shooters almost more than other group by allowing folks to interact with their "online reloading manuals". For example, http://AmmoGuide.com/ offers some very useful tools like "Visual" and "Ballistic" comparison tools...


There are some reloading websites that are little more than paper manuals in that they simply list out static load data. But the best websites can and will do MUCH more, adding in software that integrates with their data (i.e., the dimensions of cartridge cases, ballistics, load data etc.) to provide visuals and other "smart" features for a more "interactive" experience. For example, AmmoGuide provides a "case dimension search engine", useful for identifying mystery rounds and other complex "sorting" type features you'de normally have to spend hours doing by hand. Paper books just can't do stuff like that.

And - WEB pages never get "dog-eared" and fall apart on you :-) Mike

Differences in test guns. Differences in bullets, jacket materials, bearing surfaces, etc.

Unfortunately as in most things in life nowadays, the lawyers have gotten hold of reloading books. Some loads are so ultra conservative as to be useless. Older books may be a bit "generous" with their recommendations also. Reloading data has become a bit like global warming, their might be some truth to it but with so many different spins being put upon it you don't know what you can trust.

The best advice: buy a chronograph. It'll let you know what your loads are doing and that'll help you know where to go from there. Look at several sources of load data. The powder manufacturers online data is free and often overlooked. Get a general feel for what your load should be capable of, for example, if you're shooting a 150 gr bullet out of a 30-06 you know that you should be able to get 2900-2950 safely. If you've got a 140 gr bullet out of a 7mm rem mag then you know you can get 3200-3250. If you're getting something more than that then something's wrong.