Hello. I have a DPMS bull barrel .223 and am having an occasional problem with the slide not closing all the way on some of my reloads. Normally, of course you just pull back the Charging handle and the bolt carrier comes back and you’re good. You can either cull the round or make another, usually successful, attempt to chamber the round. Also, this usually happens with the first round in the clip and indicates your clip is too full. What has happened twice to me is my gun fires, ejects, and chambers several times just fine and then I have a round that doesn’t fully chamber. Since I’m in the process of shooting I don’t notice the round didn’t chamber and pull the trigger. It feels like a misfire but is really just the trigger failing to knock the firing pin forward (thank God) because the round isn’t fully into the chamber. Where I run into real trouble is I am then unable to open the bolt carrier because the round is stuck and the front of the carrier had hold of the brass. I have to take it to the gunsmith who won’t let me watch him undo it and tells me he did it “very carefully—it’s tricky” and then charges me $30. Worst of all, however, is when this happens prairie dog shooting is OVER. These are reloads I have made with my RCBS short-base die. The first was a once-fired Fiocchi and the second a twice fired (once by the Military and once by me in the form of Black Hills ammo) Lake City brass. The first had a Speer bullet and approximate COAL of 2.225”. The second one was loaded with 24 grains of H335 and a 55-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip, trimmed to 1.75” and a COAL of 2.223” (Probably more info than you need, but wanted to give you as much as I could). With the exception of the Military’s go-round with the Lake City brass, these were previously fired only in my AR. Has anyone ever had this happen? It’s clearly a case of my brass being too big for the chamber, but is it DPMS, RCBS or could there be something I’m doing wrong? Although two times might not be enough to make the case, it’s just too coincidental that both times it was a reload for me to think this isn’t due to my reloads. That’s why I posted it here instead of on a rifle site, but might post it there too. Thanks for your help. Joe
1.Are you crimping your reloads? The crimper in the seating die, if adjusted down to far can bulge the neck or shoulder, resulting in a jam as you discribe. No crimp is needed. 2. Make sure your RCBS full length small base die is making full contact with the shell holder, then turn the die down another + 1/8 to 1/4 per instructions. 3.Have you trimmed your brass to the correct lenght.
Posts: 1295 | Location: USA | Registered: 21 May 2001
Something tells me his "very carefully-it's tricky" is to hold the rifle muzzle up over a bench, pull the charging handle back, and while pulling the charging handle down hit the bench with the butt of the rifle. If he takes longer than 5 minutes he probbly stepped out back for a smoke.
Do you crimp your bullets? What do you to the cases of the ones you take apart and reuse? Out of how many rounds does this happen? Try sizing about a dozen cases and see how they chamber. With out a bullet in the case you will have to put the case about half way into the chamber. When you let the bolt carrier go forward use the charging handle to lower it into position. If you let the carier slam into the case it willsize it to the chamber and not tell you anything. If the bolt doesn't close properly it could be a headspace problem. Your die might be a touch long. Or the shell holder too tall. Shell holder and die from the same company I'm guessing. Should be a good match. Do you kiss the base of the die with the shell holder? If the case chambers try seating bullets, no pwder or primer and see how they feed. You can cycle them from a magazine this time.
If the gun functions with factory ammo, its not the gun.
A bad day at the range is better than a good day at work.
Posts: 1254 | Location: Norfolk, Va | Registered: 27 December 2003
Leave it to you guys to hit on something. I crimp the daylights out of my rounds. I noticed the other day that they changed length several thousands; the COAL got longer. I would've thought that meant skinnier brass and no problems chambering but when two of you say it, it makes me think twice. Also, note the two types of brass sticking are LC and Fiocchi. I know LC is thicker because it's Mil brass, but GFL seems thicker to me as well--the primer pocker usually needs reaming.
If I could ask a follow up question to you guys then---you don't crimp??? I've always been afraid of that because I had a couple rounds (factory that time) that when they chambered the bullet got pushed into the brass. This was probably caused by the crappy clip that came with my DPMS, but the result, if it fired could be pretty damned bad too since it seems that would be very nearly like having a round stuck in the barrel. Fortunately the gun didn't go off--don't know why.
So---Crimp or no crimp??? Again, thanks to all you guys. You know a lot of stuff about a lot of stuff.
I do not crimp for M16A1, Mini-14, AR180. Neck tension holds the bullet. Military ammo requires 35 to 45 lbs to pull the bullet. My test shows i can get the same bullet pull when on seating a bullet into a sized neck, the neck expands .002" on seating.Make sure your expander button is .002" smaller than bullet diameter.Some reloaders use a Lee Factory crimp die, this will not bulge the neck or shoulder. Here is a good link for reloading for auto. http://www.exteriorballistics....ics/gasgunreload.cfm Read the part about "Neck Tension"
Posts: 1295 | Location: USA | Registered: 21 May 2001
Actually, the Lee Factory Crimp die is what I'm using. It seems to lengthen my OAL but not sure what it's doing to width. I wouldn't have thought it would fatten the neck but who knows. With the small amount of measuring equipment I have (basically a caliper) and not being sure if I can hit the same place on my neck tapers it's too hard to tell. What kind of tool would I use to test if I'm fattening the neck? Thanks.
Sounds like you're crimping too much with the Lee factory crimper. First I wouldn't crimp a bullet that doesn't have a crimping groove or cannelure. Read the instructions that came with your crimper again very carefully and adjust it like wise.
I believe and do crimp all ammo I use in AR 15's.
Almost forgot. I don't like the bang the buttstock method to dislodge a stuck cartridge. Here's another more safe way and easier on the rifle. Push both take down pins out and take the upper receiver off the lower receiver. Turn the upper receiver upside down and with a wide flat blade screwdriver you will see a spot where you can wedge the blade inbetween the carrier and receiver. Lever it open then put the carrier/bolt the rest of the way open with the charging handle.
I've never crimped any of my 223s but then again I've never loaded for an AR type rifle. There are taper crimp dies available for the 223. Any advantage using a taper crimp for rounds loaded for ARs ?
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002
Originally posted by craigster: I've never crimped any of my 223s but then again I've never loaded for an AR type rifle. There are taper crimp dies available for the 223. Any advantage using one for rounds loaded for ARs ?
The important thing with the 5.56/223 is over crimping can bulge the neck/shoulder. This is why when using a roll crimp which is incorporated in most seater dies to have the cases all trimmed to the same length. The Lee factory crimp die eliminates that problem as it's not dependent on same lengths. I think the poster was over crimping with the Lee factory crimp die. He had to be if the OAL grew after using it. That die works by a collet squeezing in from the side while the case is at a stand still. So you can see if you squeeze too much the metal has to move somewhere, thus the OAL grows.
No, I don't crimp. I use neck tension on mine. 52's and 77's for match ammo. You'll also need a collet puller to pull them. I haven't gotten one to pull in a kinetic puller.
A bad day at the range is better than a good day at work.
Posts: 1254 | Location: Norfolk, Va | Registered: 27 December 2003
