Ok, what is your preferred tool/method of deburing after trimming? Why is that your prefered method? What else have you tried? How did you come to the conclusion that what you use is best/easiest/etc?

For the outside, I use the deburring gizzie that looks like a little rocket. Inside I use a tool from Lyman that bevels the inside.
There are automatic tools but they are pricey.
I don't know which way is best; at best it is one of the tedious little jobs that goes with reloading.

I use a very old(maybe over 50yrs) RCBS Tool to Deburr the outside and a relatively new(maybe 20yrs) Lyman VLD Tool to Champfer the inside.

Then I stick an old worn-out 22cal Bore Brush, which is wrapped with 0000SteelWool, into the VLD Handle and "Polish" the Case Mouth with a couple of twists. I use this same Brush on my larger rifle Cases too.

Varmint Al has a Cup soldered to a rod with SteelWool in it that he recommends. I find the 22cal Brush works fine for me though.

Since I've Polished the Case Mouths, the Random Fliers have been reduced. I believe it is because the Bullet Base has less of a chance to get Scratched as it is Seated. That may be Full-of-Beans, but it seems to help when I shoot at l-o-n-g distances.

Best of luck to you.

I have an adapter which holds a Forster/RCBS type deburring tool in a drill press. I use this for outside deburring. For the inside, I use a Lyman VLD removed from the wooden handle and chucked in a drill press. The drill press makes quick work of deburring and doesn't wear your hands and wrists out like manually twisting the tool will.

I have been using the RCBS tool with good results, but it is certainly tedious! I thought about getting the Hollands' tool for inside the neck. I'm sure its similar to lyman VLD. Sposed to have a differant angle to reduce chance of bullet damage and such. It makes sense hot core that your polishing would reduce flyers. I will try that.

Only good thing is, once you trim and debur, at least you don't have to do it again right away!

Have a look at this one.
http://www.giraudtool.com/
You can set it to do do any angle you want.
I use different angles for different bullets.

quote:

Originally posted by guncurtis2:
Only good thing is, once you trim and debur, at least you don't have to do it again right away!

Hey Curtis, Best of luck with the Polishing. It is quick and simple.

On my "Hunting Loads", I typically Resquare the Primer Pocket, Trim, Deburr, Champfer and Polish after every shot, but that does not mean everyone should do that. By Resquaring the Primer Pocket, I get a "feel" for how much the Depth was Reduced due to the Pressure. And I usually see a very minute amount of Case Length growth with the SAFE MAX Loads I tend to use. Doing the entire process helps me keep an eye on what is happening with my Cases.

I noticed Stonecreek mentioned using a Drill Press to do his Deburring. For me, that does not work as well as doing it by hand. I tried using a Drill with the Lee Case Length Gauge Shell Holder and I'd occasionally get too much of a Bite resulting in a deeper cut. So I went back to doing it by hand. Glad it works for him though.

Somewhere out there, maybe Lyman, one of the manufacturers makes a Cutter for a Laythe Style Trimmer which Trims, Champfers and Deburrs all at the same time. But the Lathe Style Trimmers just are not as accurate - for me - as the Lee Tool.

Best of luck to you.

RCBS case master one of the best reloading things I have bought FAST AND EASY.

I use a 3 flute countersink deburring tool made by Beck a German firm available from SPI. A quick half turn does the inside to 100 degrees, then I hold the case mouth against one of the cutting edges with my thumb and turn the case to knock off the outside burr.

I have the case chucked into my Lee shellholder thingy. I trim with the mandrel trimmer, then remove the burrs (inside and outside) with the little rocket-shaped thingy. I can put a case into the shellholder, process it and take it out in about twenty-five seconds. Below is a picture of the hand-powered lathe my dad made for me from my description of what I wanted. It's a half-inch bolt with a drillchuck on it. The bolt rotates in half-inch brass bushings. It rotates very smoothly-- runout and endplay are less than one millimeter. The crank is stout strap steel welded to the bolthead, and has a nice, spinny handle on it. The base is red oak with a nice polyurethane finish. I used to use a 3/8-inch chuck, but I couldn't get .473-inch cases (.30-06 and .308) into it mouth first so I could scrape the primer pocket clean. The bigger chuck easily fits the bigger cases.



Below shows how I trim. I have welded the Lee trimmer to a 5/8" open end wrench, then cut off the excess handle from the wrench. The wrench opening exactly fits the tighten-down thingy of this .223 shellholder thingy with a very small amount of filing down. It takes just a small amount of filing-down of the shellholder thingies to have the wrench fit all of them. I trim, pick up the deburring tool, do the inside and outside, and remove the trimmed case without ever putting the trimmer down. Saves oodles of time.

To scrape primer pockets, I can either chuck just the brush tip in the chuck, or put the case mouth first into the chuck and use the whole handle. I find that's easier on my hands and fingers. It takes just a slight tightening by hand of the chuck to adequately grip the case for scraping. They go in and out really quickly. I never have to put down the tool. This one is such an improvement over the old one made out a pencil sharpener that I used for about six years...



I use the 82-degree countersink below to spin the crimp out of the primer pockets in mil-surp brass. Takes about three spins of the crank and that crimp is outta there! The tool was sold by Sears about fifteen years ago. Not sold anymore. Too bad-- it's a good one. Never gets dull...



Just for kicks I tried a 300RUM and a 300WSM in my lathe. The RUM (left) fits in deeply and requires a bit of tightness to hold it for working it. The WSM (right) is fatter and fills the opening so much that no tightening is possible-- the jaws are retracted as far as they can go. The case would still probably be held tightly enough to work it but if it spins, there is no way to tighten it...

Hey HomeBrewer, I've said it before, and here it is again - you do make some "Fine Thingys".

I've been using the lyman trimmer that has universal case jaws and it comes with 9 caliber pilots. it also has carbide cutter. I have found it to be extremely accurate and cutting a consistant length. It goes quickly and easily as well. The dern deburing has not been as pleasant. Thanks for all the suggestions. We'll see how they go...

RCBS deburring tool, which looks like a small rocket. Then I polish the mouth. Press steel wool into a pipe cap and twist the mouth into the steel wool a couple times. Smooth, polished and burrless.

This happens to be from RCBS but it's actually made by L. E. Wilson.

Simple...does small to large diameter case necks, both inside and outside.

But I also use this adjustable VLD type K&M reamer for 22 caliber flatbase bullets.

I like the LYMAN INSIDE/OUTSIDE DEBURRING TOOL.Once you get it set,it deburrs both inside and outside of the case neck opening in one operation,purty much cuts the time to do this task in half.The trick to using it is,getting it set right because it is adjustable for different calibers.

For inside neck deburring I use my Lyman VLD tool chucked in a cheap cordless drill. For a while I didn't know the cutter unscrewed from the handle.

Steve E.........

Has anyone here tried the Hornady Lock and Load Case Prep Center?. If you have used it, "What do you think of it?" They are hard as hell to find so that tells me that they are either great and everyone wants them or they are not so great and Hornady is still tweaking them.