Lee Factory Crimp Die?
Somewhere on some reloading site or gun forum I read that only a few cartridges benefit from the Lee Factory Crimp Die. I believe those included were the .30-30, .30 M1 Carbine, and maybe the .38 special and 9mm. I just can't remember all the details. I thought I bookmarked the site, but I didn't. The bottom line seemed to be that handgun calibers don't need the FCD, and not all rifle calibers do. I reload the .30-30, .308, .223, 9mm, .38 special, .45acp and .45 SUPER. Do these calibers benefit from the Lee Factory Crimp die? Can anyone give me a general answer as to what benefits and what doesn't, and/or maybe a link to a discussion on this topic? I sure would appreciate it. Thank you

I think most rifle calibers do benefit from it, most especially when you're seating to magazine length and can't put the bullets right out in land contact. The crimp increases the bullet starting force, improving the uniformity of ignition. It makes the overall length less critical, as the crimp gives a similar starting force to the starting pressure of a bullet seated to the lands, according to Lee. I've noted slightly higher velocities, better shot-to-shot velocity spread, and most importantly, better groups, with it. Don't base your opinions of crimps with experimentation with the roll crimper built into most seating dies, as that's highly variable with slight differences in case length and die adjustment. The Lee crimper gives a very uniform crimp. It's immaterial whether the bullet has a cannelure or whether you're seating to the cannelure; it will crimp the case into the bullet, making a shallow cannelure for it. That's basically how cannelures are formed in bullets at the factory, and this doesn't "damage" the bullet any more than engraving the rifling does. The Factory Crimp Dies are cheap, so give 'em a try and see for yourself.

I definitley will try them. It's interesting to see what calibers people use them in. Now, if I could just learn when, where, and why to use the Redding Profile Crimp Die I would feel like I'm beginning to get somewhere. I have not purchased any of these. I'm making a list of which one to buy in which calibers.
Thank you

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Originally posted by NotRicochet:
I think most rifle calibers do benefit from it, most especially when you're seating to magazine length and can't put the bullets right out in land contact. The crimp increases the bullet starting force, improving the uniformity of ignition. It makes the overall length less critical, as the crimp gives a similar starting force to the starting pressure of a bullet seated to the lands, according to Lee. I've noted slightly higher velocities, better shot-to-shot velocity spread, and most importantly, better groups, with it. Don't base your opinions of crimps with experimentation with the roll crimper built into most seating dies, as that's highly variable with slight differences in case length and die adjustment. The Lee crimper gives a very uniform crimp. It's immaterial whether the bullet has a cannelure or whether you're seating to the cannelure; it will crimp the case into the bullet, making a shallow cannelure for it. That's basically how cannelures are formed in bullets at the factory, and this doesn't "damage" the bullet any more than engraving the rifling does. The Factory Crimp Dies are cheap, so give 'em a try and see for yourself.

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I use the Factory Drimp Die on every caliber I load for.I totally agree with NotRicochet in his statements.When used with the Collet Die is where the FCDie shines for me.My #1 Ruger in .243Win has a very long freebore and getting close to the lands is NOT an option.It has improved accuracy more than taken away in my experiments.

I have only 4 years under my belt at reloading but have plenty of manual reading to go with it.On another site I got ridiculed for statements like the above paragraph.Rank amateur etc were the comments.

On this sites main screen you`ll find FAQ`s and one of them is a test on crimping by Saeed himself under controlled conditions with different rifles.These guys are NOT rank amateurs and their findings are the same results as mine.

So for $10 apiece for the dies do you`re own experiments on your favorite rifles.I have a feeling you won`t be disappointed.A few calibers I use it on(.222,.223,.243,30-30,30-06,7mm Mauser,7.62x54R.

Mike Berger

Thanks, Mike. I will look up the FAQs. I hear you about other sites. There are some sites so bad you can't say anything without getting badmouthed. Thank you for the encouragement.
If you get time could you, or anyone, explain the Lee Collet Die to me. I have not used many Lee dies. They work ok, but they rust very easily. However, I will just take better care of them if it's beneficial to use them.

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Originally posted by tula9130:
I use the Factory Drimp Die on every caliber I load for.I totally agree with NotRicochet in his statements.When used with the Collet Die is where the FCDie shines for me.My #1 Ruger in .243Win has a very long freebore and getting close to the lands is NOT an option.It has improved accuracy more than taken away in my experiments.

I have only 4 years under my belt at reloading but have plenty of manual reading to go with it.On another site I got ridiculed for statements like the above paragraph.Rank amateur etc were the comments.

On this sites main screen you`ll find FAQ`s and one of them is a test on crimping by Saeed himself under controlled conditions with different rifles.These guys are NOT rank amateurs and their findings are the same results as mine.

So for $10 apiece for the dies do you`re own experiments on your favorite rifles.I have a feeling you won`t be disappointed.A few calibers I use it on(.222,.223,.243,30-30,30-06,7mm Mauser,7.62x54R.

Mike Berger

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The Collet Die neck sizes only so it ain`t good for auto`s or pumps or some lever actions.It`s great for bolt or single shots like the #1.The ammo will only fit the rifle it was fired from because all chambers vary just a little bit.So case segragation is a must.

It forms the case neck around a mandrel and depimes at the same time.No lubrication is required.Trim cases again at this point for the last time of the life of the cases.A single stage non-breakover press works best for feel,but I can do the job well on a Lyman or a Rockchucker well.Following the directions in the die set closely and turning the die in little by little until you get neck tension on the bullet is the key factor here.It takes very little pressure to do the job.

The bullet seater that comes with the set is very accurate because it bottoms out on the shellholder.Again....very little pressure is involved.

The one drawback of the system is unequal neck tension from case to case.At this point I don`t care.Why?...because the bullet is axially aligned with the chamber of that rifle.

Then I "snug" the bullet in place with the FCDie using the same amount of pressure each time on every case.Light pressure.

One batch of .243Win has ten reloadings with the longest case just .003 past trim length.This method works well for me.It turned a 2" rifle with factory ammo into a nickle size group rifle @ 100yds with this method.

Well.....there ya have it.I weigh each charge of powder by the way.I am already beat up from the other site so a few more flames can`t hurt me.Smiling ,satisfying, range time outweighs the flames easily in my mind.

Thanks, Tula. That sounds like so much work and time consumption that I wonder if I really want to do it But I will carry on.......

It is perfectionist I agree and a little time consuming,but not as much as full length sizing and trimming each time you shoot a batch of cases.It`s way faster.And easier.

Good Shooting to You,
Tula9130

I used them on my 45-70 and 458 win loads. I dont crimp any of my other calibers.

I have found like some of the others that it can tighten up accuracy on some rifles. It did in a 7 x 57 of mine.

Other wise, I use them on the 30/30, 45 Colt, 30/40 Krag and 444 Marlin. I like them for ease of use.

None of my rifles are auto loaders so I don't use them on other calibers I load for.