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Picture of cepryan
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I am new to reloading, and would like to know how without any extra equiptment, you can tell when pressures are to high. any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
Posts: 7 | Location: Southeast Arizona | Registered: 26 April 2005Reply With Quote
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If you are new to reloading, you should have one, or more, loading manuals. Once you have read them, from beginning to end, you will have a very firm grasp of "pressure signs".


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Posts: 1283 | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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If you have not done any reloading and just gettin started a good manuel like a lyman reloading manuel will give you a lot of basic information. a must have for a reloader.
stay inside the lines. most manuels give a minimum starting load and a maxamim load.
always start low and work up I can not stress this enough. as you increase the charge toward max you will experience an increase in velocity and at some point you will see pressure signs such as a heavy or stick bolt lift, deeply cratered primers, soot around the primer pocket. a completely blown primer with gas in the face, seperated cases and so on so use caution and work up slowly checking and study each batch of reloads if you start to low on the charge weights there are other sign as well that resemble hi pressure signs.
Dave
 
Posts: 2134 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 26 June 2000Reply With Quote
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You are very, very right to ask. This can KILL you if you get out of line very far.

As said, obtain several reloading manuals and study them.

First consideration is action operation. A lever action will "lock up" from an over pressure load before a bolt action. You have this problem, back up and figure out the problems.

From there it is the combination. You need to start low, as recommended in a reputable manual. Then the mid range load. Looking for the signs described.

Keep a factory case apart for comparison. Does your reload look to expand the case more than the factory? May be too hot. Primers may flatten. Not all primer cups are the same. You will need experience. A stout firing pin spring can slow the deformation. Old tired spring can make you think you have a hot load when you don't. (surplus rifles, old, maybe) Luck.
 
Posts: 519 | Registered: 29 August 2007Reply With Quote
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Well, PRE and CHE are old. That much is true.


Prove all things; hold fast to that which is good.
 
Posts: 2281 | Location: Layton, UT USA | Registered: 09 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of vapodog
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quote:
Originally posted by cepryan:
I am new to reloading, and would like to know how without any extra equiptment, you can tell when pressures are to high. any info would be greatly appreciated.

before this thread goes any further lets be clear what we're talking about....ok?

are we talking about handguns?

Are we talking about shotguns?

Are we talking about lever acton or pump or semi auto rifle?

Or are we talking about centerfire rifle rounds in modern bolt rifles such as the Savage 110 series or Remington 700 rifles or Winchester M-70 or other similar bolt action rifles?


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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Picture of cepryan
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thanks for all the posts, i have been loading a little with my brother, but now i am going to reload myself as well. I have been shooting a long time and know most of the signs but was just lloking for a little mor info. vapodog; I am loading for a FNH PBR in 300WSM and 223 for my ar-15. For now just these two but after a while i will start loading for my hand guns.
 
Posts: 7 | Location: Southeast Arizona | Registered: 26 April 2005Reply With Quote
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sorry, with my 300WSM i have been getting alot of soot around the neck of my case with both factory wichester supreme ammo and our reloaded ammo.
 
Posts: 7 | Location: Southeast Arizona | Registered: 26 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Soot is caused by the case neck not sealing to the chamber, and is generally attributed to low pressure. I'm not sure this is the situation here, as it's happening with factory ammo. Nor can I convince myself that the rifle has a short throat that would cause pinching the case neck. You should feel that interference when the cartridge is chambered.

Here's what I think. The WSM's have nearly no throat in the chamber. If the chamber is cut long, you have a headspace problem. Without a correspondingly lengthened throat, on firing the cartridge case stretches, forcing the the case neck into the lands. This in turn pinches the neck and prevents sealing. For this to be the case, the throat/leade must be cut with a separate reamer from the chamber reamer. I don't know the machining process for your barrel, but it's the way I see that your problem could arise. Others with more experience may have a better theory.


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Posts: 1184 | Registered: 21 April 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by cepryan:
sorry, with my 300WSM i have been getting alot of soot around the neck of my case with both factory wichester supreme ammo and our reloaded ammo.


A little soot is normal say about half way down the neck. soot down on the shoulder or case body is usually caused by low pressure but it can be caused by brass that is too hard.
Soot can also be found on the outside of cases fired through autoloaders and machine guns.
 
Posts: 13978 | Location: http://www.tarawaontheweb.org/tarawa2.jpg | Registered: 03 December 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of cepryan
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winchester 69, thank you, i have been using wincehester silver cases and have been told they are harder and cannot be loaded as many times as regular brass. I am trading out the nickel for brass. And to sr4759 the soot has been limited to mostley the neck thank you.
 
Posts: 7 | Location: Southeast Arizona | Registered: 26 April 2005Reply With Quote
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