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I just acquired a old .38s&w that I shot with my grandpa as a kid, and now own. I load for all my rifles, but never for handgun. Could someone please explain to me in layman's terms what the purpose of each of the 3 dies in the 3 die set is for? The seater obviously seats, but I don't know why there are two sizers. I think it has something to do with it being straigh walled. I was planning on buying the Lee carbide 3 set dies.


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Posts: 8 | Location: Pierce Co. WA | Registered: 20 September 2005Reply With Quote
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First die also would be the first step in the reloading process is the sizing die, this just simply resizes the case, the second die is the bell die also the second step, this is critical for belling the case mouth as to where the bullets will be easier to load, all it does is expand the case mouth a few thousands, and the last die is the seater die, which just seats the bullet just like a rifle die. The only difference from rifle and pistol dies is the bell die it just makes loading the cases much easier. Hope this helps you. The bell die just takes the place of the expander ball basically, a pistol sizing die does not have an expander therefore you have a belling die.
 
Posts: 79 | Registered: 16 October 2005Reply With Quote
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Hammer explained it pretty well. I will add that you be carful when setting up the bell die you want to bell the case just enough to start the bullet. And make sure the seat die is set to give a good crimp. A good crimp is important with pistol bullet.


arky65


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Posts: 245 | Location: arkansas/louisiana | Registered: 31 March 2004Reply With Quote
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I'm new to handguns, too. I'm not clear on how much to bell and crimp. Bell just enough to seat sounds easy, same for lead and jacketed?

How much do I crimp? Just enough not to wrinkle the case? Just enough to hold the bullet? Do lead or jacketed bullets get the same amount of crimp?

Should I bother to sort brass by brand and number of firings?

Thanks


Jason
 
Posts: 582 | Location: Western PA, USA | Registered: 04 August 2003Reply With Quote
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Bja, Bell just enough so that the bullet will start into the case mouth. Just a enough to bell the case a few thousands, it is trial and error. it helps if all the cases are the same length.

You want a firm crimp so that bullets do not jump under recoil. Revolvers take a roll crimp and auto use a taper crimp because autos' headspace off the case mouth. My best suggestion is that you read a good reloading manual that explains these things better and in more detail.

Yes you should sort brass. Different brands have different volume capicity. Again read a good manual.

I suggest you have on hand several reloading manuals to consult. I like the ones by Lee, Lyman, and Sierra. A good all around book is the ABC's of Reloading.

Good Luck

Arky65


people that trade freedom for security become slaves
 
Posts: 245 | Location: arkansas/louisiana | Registered: 31 March 2004Reply With Quote
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I'll add, revolver dies have a roll crimp. Semiauto rounds have a taper crimp. The taper crimp can be applied to a bullet w/o a cannelure. The roll crimp really needs a canneluer or small groove in the bullet. Just crimp enough to fold the bell back into the bullet. A taper crimp basically removes the bell & that's about it.
Sorting pistol brass, I don't if using only target loads, too much trouble but if using max. loads, then a wise idea.


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Posts: 7752 | Location: kalif.,usa | Registered: 08 March 2001Reply With Quote
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Not all semiauto pistol rounds have to be taper crimped:

357 Sig = semiauto = taper crimp, headspace off of mouth

7.62x25 = semiauto = roll crimp, headspace off of shoulder

FWIW,

Andy


Andy

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Posts: 315 | Location: Arlington TX | Registered: 21 October 2005Reply With Quote
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Welcome , devldogs. Smiler
Don't have much to add.
Seems these guys came thru with flying colors.
These replies are why this is the best forum on the Net.


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My Weakness Is That I have No Choice.
 
Posts: 5567 | Location: charleston,west virginia | Registered: 21 October 2003Reply With Quote
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I only bell the case mouth if I am loading non-jacketed bullets and the reason is that the case mouth will shave some lead off the all lead slugs unless they are belled a little. For semi-auto pistol rounds I would also recommend a Lee Factory Crimp die to finish the cartridges with, as it will crimp the case mouth and put the outside dimensions of the case to SAMMI specs.


Dennis
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Posts: 1191 | Location: Ft. Morgan, CO | Registered: 15 April 2005Reply With Quote
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One of the chamfer reamers will let you get by with less of a bell on the case mouth. You only need a little bit ogf a bell. If you can feel it at all it probably is enough. You will not be any where filling the case with powder (watch out for double loads). The only reason to sort cases is to get the length the same for crimping.
Good Luck!
 
Posts: 1028 | Location: Mid Michigan | Registered: 08 January 2005Reply With Quote
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You say it’s an old 38 S&W. Is that a 38 S&W, or a 38 S&W Special ? As they are very different cartridges, and require different dies. You probably already know that, but I though I’d mention it just in case. Good luck with your loading.
 
Posts: 189 | Registered: 17 February 2005Reply With Quote
<cobra44>
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Buy a Dillon Square Deal B and be done with it problem solved. $309.95 plus shipping in the caliber of your choice. If there is a question regarding the caliber call Dillon at 1-800-223-4570, explain what you have and what you want to load they will be more than glad to help you.
 
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