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Is there a chart or formula that will let me compare the foot-pounds of generated recoil from a particular firearm with another? The numbers do not have to be exact for what I want. | ||
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http://www.accuratereloading.com/recoil.html http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm http://www.ehow.com/how_507581...te-rifle-recoil.html Frank "I don't know what there is about buffalo that frightens me so.....He looks like he hates you personally. He looks like you owe him money." - Robert Ruark, Horn of the Hunter, 1953 NRA Life, SAF Life, CRPA Life, DRSS lite | |||
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Doubt it would be relevant anyhow, unless you are "average" in body type, sensitivity, etc. IMO you would just do well to get a stock/model that fits your body and stick with heavier weapons or do extensive recoil-managing 'smithing. Everyone has some upper limit on what's comfortable. Mine stops at .416 Rigby in a fitted CZ 550 Safari Magnum package, and my Brno .375 probably is where I'm comfortable. 2 cents _______________________ | |||
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If you download "pointblank", a ballistics program that is free to download, it has a built in recoil calculator, just type in the numbers it asks for, and it will spit out the recoil in lbs/ft. Cheers. | |||
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Thank you all so much. My daughter in law wants a rifle that she can confidently take up to Moose sized game. She has some issues with her back and shoulders so I want to see that she gets the most shooter friendly recoil that will still get the job done. At present I am leaning toward either a 6.5X55 or a 308. I thought I might could load a 308 lighter for practice and then give her some heavier loads for actual hunting. | |||
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One thing I've found / noticed when comparing recoil levels is to pay attention to the "recoil velocity" as well as the ft/lb number. A lower velocity number seems to take a lot of the sting out of a equal ft/lb numbers. IOW what some folks describe as a "push" (low velocity) vs a "punch" (high velocity). | |||
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+1. It's all about the recoil velocity. The higher the velocity the more sting it will cause. I would look hard at the 7-08. That's all my wife and son use. Start with a weak charge and go from there. Best of luck. | |||
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Of course it is the recoil velocity. Recoil is an impulse MassxVelocity (MOMENTUM). You don't feel recoil Energy. | |||
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A heavier, slower bullet has more 'push' than 'kick'. Have you considered a suppressor or moderator? That'll take the bite right out of it. I don't know if a shrouded muzzle brake is allowable in your parts. It's just a muzzle brake with a shroud that redirects the blast forward without reducing the blast (although I'd imagine it would 'soften' the blast). Regards 303Guy | |||
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Formulas will give you "free recoil". Stance and mounting will change how recoil is perceived. Off hand has "more" recoil than prone, the tighter the rifle is in the pocket the less "free recoil" it can develope. Body mass becomes part of the recoil equation. For a rifle I'd look at the .308/.30-06 range (maybe .270?) and work up from light loads to hunting loads. A bad day at the range is better than a good day at work. | |||
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Im recoil sensitive (sometimes rough for a guide) so I pay attention to rifle build, fit and weight. Use all the tricks when necc such asvrecoil reducers etc. | |||
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