Which pistol caliber is best with regards to reloading? I am planning to get a mid size pistol and will reload to save money. My experience has been reloading 357 mags.

What are pros and cons of each caliber?
Does the neck in the 357 Sig complicate reloading or does it simplify reloading?

It is my understanding that pistols generally headspace on the case mouth, and crimps and case length are critical for proper operation. My revolver doesnt care.

Does the 357 sig headspace on the shoulder, making the crimp and case length less critical?

How is the comparative recoil on these 3 pistol calibers? I dont want to consider a 357 sig if it is unpleasant for kids and female shooters, unless I could load it mild for target shooting and it still operate.

How do you collect your cases after they eject? Is it advisable too spread out a big tarp to let them land on and keep them out of the dirt, or do they fly all over creation? I would like to keep them out of the dirt. My 357 mag reloads are just wiped off with a rag, no real cleaning, but if cases are ejected to the ground and walked on and kicked around in the dirt it sounds like they may require a proper cleaning step.

I have only shot 9mm pistol a couple of times and have never owned a pistol.

Thank you in advance. Have a good day.
BS

Hello,
I have gotten rid of all my automatic pistols many moons ago. Was not pleased with any of them. Browning Hi-Power was the best. No comment on reloading, as I was not into reloading at that point. In terms of catching your shells, if they all are of the same velocity, and your shooting position is allways basically the same, the guns will always kick the cases to the same place, within like a 2 ft. radius. So just put a wide, shallow box where you see them generally land with a layer of rags in the bottom to prevent dents. Costs nothing. Works.

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Safety & Ethics,Accuracy, Velocity, Energy
Joe M

Very funny is my CZ-52, kicking cases over 8 yards. When I shoot in indoor shooting range, cases are everywhere simply because there are many bounces. "Deadly" situation is when hot case arrive under my T-shirt

quote:

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Originally posted by JoeM:
Hello,
I have gotten rid of all my automatic pistols many moons ago. Was not pleased with any of them. Browning Hi-Power was the best. No comment on reloading, as I was not into reloading at that point. In terms of catching your shells, if they all are of the same velocity, and your shooting position is allways basically the same, the guns will always kick the cases to the same place, within like a 2 ft. radius. So just put a wide, shallow box where you see them generally land with a layer of rags in the bottom to prevent dents. Costs nothing. Works.

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.40. Straight walled pistol cases are easiest to reload. I load on a Dillon 650 and I load a bunch. A friend used to load the 9 X 25 Dillon which is the Sigs big brother and it was certainly a little more problematic as it required full length resizing to be sure of proper function. Full length resising of such a small bottleneck case can be a pain.

The .40 will be less expensive then the Sig also as the brass is available for less money.

While the 9 may be slightly less expensive to load, is a little fussier with the smaller case.

Straight wall case is easiest. The 40 is easier to manage than the 9mm which has a slight taper on the case, may crush in a press, and is tiny, tiny, tiny.

40 drawbacks are that it's very fussy about seating. Deep seating of this round creates dangerous pressures.

Forget about the .357 SIG. You'll never see any brass at the range. Bottleneck case is hard to resize.

I'd go for a 45 ACP. You can reduce the load and use a 185 gr. bullet for practice. Cases are easy to find on the ground. Lots of brass available at most shooting areas. Simple to reload. And it's the KING of the semi-auto handgun calibers. Lots more poop that you'll need in most handgun firefights. --Heavy bullet, big hole.

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I am a 10mm man but I say of the above choices that 40 is your best bet. It hits harder than the 9mm. Both the 40 and the 9mm would be easier to handload than the 357 Sig. But like the above post mentioned you have to be extra, extra careful with the seating depth in the 40. I do think the 357 Sig is a good cartridge and it certainly does match the ballistics of the lighter weight 357 magnum rounds, I just question whether there is really a need for it.

a lot really depends on what you are going to use it for. The 40 has power but in a self defense situationit has to much penatration.Recoil is a matter of the pistol and power of the load, you said midsize pistol which is small and lighter than full size and recoil is more. The higher the quality usally the less the recoil, and the hotter the load the more recoil. I have a 44mag, shooting reduced loads recoil is mild, so it's a matter of variables. My 45 auto is a paraordnance (midsize p12) and with normal self defence loads has less recoil than his 9mm and considerably less than my 40cal, after brass with hard cast bullets it comes to about 6 cents a round.... not bad...

bstogsdill,

For about 5 years, I've been reloading 9mm for 5 different weapons: Ruger P89, Beretta 92F, Glock 26, Ruger Blackhawk single action 9mm/357Mag, and a Marlin Camp carbine in 9mm. I use a Dillon RL 550B progressive reloading press with Dillon dies and reload about 500 rounds every couple of months. The 9mm is an good caliber to reload because the brass and other components are inexpensive and easy to find. The brass is readily available in once-fired bulk quantities. I noted that in previous posts to this message that someone recommended that one could easily find 9mm or 40 caliber brass at your local shooting range. I don't know about other places, but every range that I am familiar with here in Texas, has a sign telling shooters NOT to pick up range brass. Most ranges are in the business of collecting spent brass and reselling it to commercial reloaders. When I shoot at a range, I pick up my own brass and I use a brass catcher of one type or another for every weapon that I shoot. For semi-auto handguns I have a small net that straps to my hand to catch right-side ejected rounds. I bought the net from Midway and it works very well. I use a case tumbler to clean and polish my brass after each firing.

The only downside to the .357 SIG that I have experienced is IMHO its just a tad TOO LOUD! In a 229 SIG it is accurate and certainly powerful, on par with a 4" revolver in .357 mag, which is nothing to sneeze at. BUT the report is sharp and muffs are an absolute must, even outdoors. A few State Agencies employ the .357 SIG and I have seen bulk brass available for reasonable prices.
Bulk quantities of 9mm/.40 S&W are available at very reasonable prices. That makes losing some rounds at the range a lot easier to take , so don't get too excited about policing up brass. Your going to lose some but the big picture is; they are cheap so don't sweat it.
I have never had any problems loading for 9's or .40's, once the press is set up and you have cases all reasonably similar. The brass I buy is probably from some LE Agency as its all once fired and generally 99% is the same headstamp. Problems can occur when you have ten different makes of brass which can be common with 9mm range brass as some of it may be military, some commercial, etc.
Work up to a safe load slowly, being careful to keep overall length, or your bullet seating depth consistent. All of these cases have small internal capacities and are generally loaded with fast buring rate powders. A little more seating depth can increase pressures very easily.
I load only moderate loads, leaving max velocity loads to the factories. Brass life is better and these loads are also easier on most autos.

Buy a quality auto, like a SIG, Beretta, etc. If the Glocks interest you they have an entirely different set of problems when it comes to reloads. Go to GlockTalk.com and check out the reloading section for that information. Stay away from the cheapis, especially the Highpoints, etc. Just junk. Buy quality and you can always sell it if you don't like it.
Don't get all wound around the axle regarding picking up brass. These rounds are cheap when bought in bulk so shoot and enjoy.
Know any LE Officers in your area? See what they carry and you may be able to purchase range brass at unbelievable prices, I have in the past several times.

Good Luck.........FN

bstogsdill,

You have recieved good information thus far. I would avoid 357 Sig. It does headspace of the shoulder. It is no harder to reload than any bottleneck rifle cartridge, but most people tend to shoot handgun ammo in greater quanity. I also would put the 357 Sig in the "unpleasent" catagory. It is very hard on the ears.

Recoil between the 9mm +P+ loads I use and the 357 Sig loads I have fired is similar. I am advised that there are 357 Sig loads that have more recoil. The 40 S&W is not really that different in felt recoil in like guns. Some people can probably tell them apart in full size service guns. In smaller guns the difference is more pronounced.

The 9mm has the advantage of lower ammunition cost while the 40 S&W has a distinct advantage in terminal effect. A full size 9mm is easier to teach with. For about $10 you can buy a reduced power recoil spring for most guns that should allow function with very light loads. This can also be done to the 40 S&W, but not to the same degree.

I wash my brass with a liquid brass cleaner and do not tumble. It is quick and effective.

Tell us more about what type of pistol you are looking for and I'm certain we can be more help.

DOC