hi , I am seeking a tool that i can place in my drill press and remove the primer crimp in US GI 30-06 brass, any ideas ??

I use a primer pocket swager made by RCBs.it sizes the pocket.
I havent seen any thing for a drill press.
use a primer with a good stiff cup like rem 9 1/2' I found the cci primers would collapse
when seated.
Dave

There must be one out there somewhere. If not, it would be easy enough to cut the handle off a hand powered one and just use the shank in the drill press.

Use the standard deburr tool if your chuck is large enough.
If not a machine shop supply house should have a 60° countersink. You might have to grind the tip off.

Although it's probably not the preferred method, this can be done with a simple pocket knife with a small but sturdy blade, or a screwdriver of appropriate size, after the old primer is removed.

What you do is put the knife blade or screwdriver blade in the primer pocket and tilt it so that its edge cuts the burr or crimp, and then turn the case so that the burr or crimp is being moved toward the blade and cut off by the blade. When you've done a 360 degree rotation of the case you're finished.

This has worked for me on fired military 30-06 cases.

This would work:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=629035
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=804809

quote:

Originally posted by ireload2:
Use the standard deburr tool if your chuck is large enough.
If not a machine shop supply house should have a 60° countersink. You might have to grind the tip off.

Seconded... this is how I have to rework mil-surp BMG brass and it works fine!

I only need a quick twist by hand of about a 3/8 drill, so you'd want a very light touch with a power/drill/press.
Or an inside neck deburrer.

I have a pear shaped bit that I place in my dremel tool to remove GI crimps. it works with either small or large primer pockets. You have to use a gentle touch because it really cuts fast. A real blessing when you're removing crimps from about 200 rounds of GI brass.
When I worked for a commercial reloading outfit many years ago, they removed crimps with a drill bit in a drill press. Again, you had to have a gentle touch.
Paul B.

I have thrown the brass away.
I have chamfered the pocket openeing.
I have cut the opening with a Lyman Pocket Uniformer.
I have pried the opening bigger with a Lyman Pocket uniformer.
I have used the Dillon Super Swage 600


That is a good tool, but it would have been cheaper just to throw away the brass.

For just a casual use, I've used a 1/2" drill bit, use the slowest speed possible and just gently hold it to the bit.

If you wanted to really uniform everything, I'd suggest resizing, trimming to length, then make a block to hold the case that you can clamp to the drill press table, and carefully adjust your stop. You'd be able to really crank them out then. However, like TNEKKCC I have reached that point in life where I realize it is more efficient to just buy some new brass and not have these issues.

So I'd just chuck up a countersink, and if I didn't have one of those a 7/16 or 1/2 bit and go at them. Oh yeah, raise the table enough to rest your forearm on, and be careful as I don't think this method is OSHA approved!

Thanks for posting that image.
This is exactly what I use, and I have done many thousands of rounds of .30-06 and.223 on it.

I tried the RCBS and Lachmiller swages, Lyman and other cutting tools, drill bits in a drill press, even a quick open/close collet and a properly set stop on my lathe. Nothing even compares with the combined speed and quality of crimp removal that the Dillon gives me. YMMV, but that's how it has worked for me.

(And it's not too expensive over the years if your time is worth much and you're doing very many thousands of cases.)


Edited to add: Have now been using my Dillon tool for right at 20-21 years. It orgiginally cost me something over $100 at full retail. Do the math...that's what?...$5 or $6 per year even at $120 original cost. Since inflation isn't whupped yet as I see it, you young guys can pay very little per year too, if you buy one now and just "age past it".

AC