What is the best tool to use to decap Berdan primers from milsurp brass cases? Is any technique especially useful? I really don't want to scrap great cases since primers are now available.

The only tool I am aware of is the RCBS berdan decapping tool. I've got one, but have never actually used it.

And I've pretty much concluded I never will, as I've aquired enough boxer brass for my 6.5x55 to last me a long time...

So I can offer you one, but can't comment on it's effectiveness.

I lost interest in Berdan primers when I discovered that they cost three times as much as anything else and that was before HazMat and shipping....

Who's your source on the Berdan primers?

the RCBS tool will damage some of the anvils. you will lose a certain amount of brass. I have one I do not use.

In Aus. in the good old days we only had .303's
Our reloads were with straight line tools used in a vice. "Simplex" made a chisel with a curved, scoop type edge, that tended to turn up and away from the anvil. A light tap in with a hammer and lever the primer out. Worked every time.

The "punch and lever out" method of JAL is probably the easiest once you have the proper tools set up.

Another method that works even better is to fabricate a special two pronged decapper and punch them out the conventional (Boxer) way.

Ray

Then there is the hydraulic method. A neat fit to the neck plunger is wacked into a case full of water. Probably best done on a hot day.

N.S:,
I have been using the "hidraulic decapper" for more than 20 years.
It works fine but preffer to decap on summer.LOL
There is a guy that make it here but I donot know if he sells it outside Argentina.
You can make it (or have someone make it for you), it is not difficult.






Hope this helps.
Martin

i always used a scratch awl and a hammer, just tap the point of the awl into the primer and pry it out

Thanks for that great info. I'm in a quandry now. I had the real impression that large rifle Berdan primers were available from something one of my shooting buddies said recently. I never paid attention to that till yesterday when one here mentioned primer availability so I spent a hour shopping on the wire and found nothing for primers. My friend had nothing specific either. Now that reloadable brass has went crazy for prices, I was thinking of shooting, saving brass and reloading some of that great brass cased shooting ammo I have squirreled away if I lould lay in a few K of primers and learn how to do it. Price would be not too bad than as against scrap for it. Didn't PMC import some Berdans? ned

I´ve used the RCBS tool extensively -I decapped my first 8 rounds last Saturday - and it works well enough. A few anvils were scraped in the process but I don´t think that will effect performance.

I´ve bought RWS primers here in Europe, maybe you can have the American dealer look into their availability.

Ditto on the scratch awl, or ice pick. Just aim off center to missthe anvil. A fwe tears ago
the "Old Western Scrounger" was the only source for Berdan primers. They were pricey even then.
Good luck!

PS Why are you using Berdan primers? I bought mine by mistake on egun (didn´t read the fine print -duh!) so I thought I might as well have a go at them!

I wanted to use the nice Berdan primed surplus ammo cases I have rather than just saving them for scrap. And I thought the Berdan primers were available as the were just two or three years ago. Better to buy the tool and pay $60/K for primers than to pay $220/K for cases alone. You never know when hard times come. Priced a US box of 7.62 X 39 from Grafs lately? $22 + shipping. You always need more than a box for target practice, Eh?

Just curious,
Could a person just drill a tiny flash hole in berdan primed cases after removing the primer and then use boxer primers?

I've always used a Lachmiller berdan decapping tool. Have never seen an RCBS "in the flesh", but if I recall the pics of the RCBS correctly, they are clones of each other.

Anyway, adjustment is crucial with the Lachmiller type of tool. The depth of protrusion of the chisel edge is screw adjustable. If the chisel edge is EVER hitting/marring the primer-pocket anvil, the adjustment screw is turned too far into the tool. Back it off until the chisel does not do that.

At the same time, if one backs the chisel off too far, it will just tear up one side of the fired primer, but not remove it from the case. So, to hit the happy medium, a guy has to adjust in small increments.

The real "bummer" is that the tool frequently needs to be adjusted for each different cartridge case lot....especially make-to-make, or from rimmed to rimless or vice-versa.

Forgot to answer the rest of your question.

Yes, it is possible to convert Berdan primer pockets to Boxer-type. There are a couple of ways.

One way is to make a round tool to support the case web on the inside of the case, and to make a punch to just fit inside the primer pocket. Use the supporting tool by putting it inside the cartridge case, holding the case head free and clear into the air. then insert the punch into the primer pocket and hammer the Berdan anvil flat. That will often result in closing both the Berdan flash holes. Then one can drill a central flash hole for the Boxer primers. I'd only try a couple of cases this way to start with...just enough to determine ifif the primer pockets pockets done in such a way will still be deep enpough to receive the Boxer primers you intend to use without ANY protrusion from the case head. If ANY of the Boxer primer sticks above the surface of the case head, don't use those cases. You don't want any protruding primers firing as you close the action.


The other method is to use a very small end mill to remove the Berdan anvil, then just bore one of the Berdan flash-holes somewhat larger...just a little tiny bit larger, not a full .080" which is standard Boxer flash-hole diameter in most cases.

Setting off a primer in this modified primer pocket will not yield a "balanced" flash, that is, not an equal amount of fire will go through each of the two holes simultaneously, but that may actually improve the ignition, rather than harm it.

Both of these methods are "at your own risk" types of things, where you would probably be better off not to do either at all. But, if you want to do either, realize there are no asurances of safety intended or implied, and you definitely want to make "experimental haste" slowly.

Isn´t the Berdan primer a bit larger than the Boxer? I haven´t done an exact measurement but Berdan primers don´t work in my RCBS handprimer do oversize.

I think this would effect getting Boxer primers to fit nicely in a Berdan pocket.

I have an RCBS tool. If anyone is interested please e.mail mmichals@us.ibm.com or pm.

There was a central fire Berdan on WW I 8 X 50 R Austrian ammo for the M-95 Mannlichers. I converted some of those to Boxer by drilling out the central fire anvil to current flashhole size and then reaming pockets to correct size for LR primers, enough to get my old stalking carbine shooting. Thank goodness for Graf's 8 X 56 R Hungarian cases for LR Boxers. But I looking now at a lot of nice brass Yugo 7.62 in Berdan twin f/h with a primer size larger in diameter than LR Boxer. Some fellers at the Swiss Forum are swaging big Berdan pockets down and it appears to work because Swiss brass is larger in head size and they can open up the US .473 primer swagers to hold the case while the swage part makes the primer pocket smaller. Not dood for 7.62 X 39 with small head size dimensions. ??? now?

The hydralic water method is a bit messy but is the only method that will not damage your cases. Crimped in military cases are a bit harder but in a pinch you can decap sporting cartridges with a wooden dowel. Trick is to get a tight sliding fit of the rod in the case mouth; fill the case nearly full of water. place the base of the case over a hole where the primer can be pushed, insert the rod and give it a sharp rap with a small hammer. Make certain yo have no air pockets or the blow will be cushioned and may not knock the primer out.

If you are doing a large number of cases or crimped in primers a rod with a o-ring seal works better as shown in the photos.

quote:

Originally posted:
The hydralic water method is a bit messy but is the only method that will not damage your cases.

This may be right. I have only been using the Lachmiller tool, which is NOT hydraulic and uses NO water, for slightly over 40 years. It has not damaged any of my cases yet, but who knows, it still may one of these days.