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one of us |
In other rifles I own, I have exceeded maximum listed powder charges by 2 or 3 grains. By then I usually start seeing signs of pressure. I have a M70 7mm STW that this is not the case. My Nosler Manual says 78grs. of H1000 is max in my 7STW with a 160gr. bullet. The Sierra manual says 80.3grs of H1000 is max. I am shooting 82grs. of H1000 with no signs of pressure. Daryl | ||
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one of us |
Each loading manual lists the bullet, powder and primer used in the loads they "suggest" as they all have a very important bearing on pressure (as well as a lot of other things). Are you using the same components? The same weight bullet? etc. How does the velocity you are getting compare to the velocity listed in the manuals you are looking at? I assume you have a chronograph or at least access to one...if not you should stay away from trying to reach "max" loads and if you are happy with the performance of the load you list, why would you want to go higher and chance stressing the rifle? Finally, unless you have a very good micrometer and are experienced in using it, I would suggest you not rely on case head expansion to check pressure. Posts like yours make me a little nervous as up give the impression of inexperience with respect to reloading and the combination of inexperience and a thirst for "max" velocity can be a recipe for load noises and bad things. | |||
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If you are at the listed velocity you are maxed. | |||
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Gaining a extra 100 fps over hurting or destroying your rifle is it worth it a sure the game you hit well never know the diff. | |||
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<1LoneWolf> |
Daryl D, Easiest indicator of pressure, is the velocity of a given load, with the components listed. You have to have a Chrony. Everything has variations. The micrometer, although it can give you information, it isn't easy to use properly on such a critical measurement as .0005s. You do need a very good mic to get readings that will tell you the "truth" on pressure. Get a chrony, stick to the velocity listed as max. If you need more speed, take a step up in caliber, you'll be safier, and it is an excuse to buy another rifle. | ||
one of us |
If you don't have a chrony of some sort, you might want to consider one. they are really nice to have when you start working-up off the page. When you see your fps gain from the powder increase start to flatten out, you are at the practical max for that gun with that powder. While I do not like to motor my rifles at the top end, I do like to know where it is. | |||
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one of us |
Your results are not unusual but you put us on the spot to recommend using over max loads as so many varibles are involved...I have a caliber that I normally load 6 grs. over book max and get zilch expansion because of the long throat in my gun... Many books play it safe in these days of law suits and I don't blame them for that, but you cannot depend on that. The difference in the old reloading books I have and the new ones will bear out this information.... What one has to do is know what he is doing and depend on that..A micrometer is mans best friend. When loading for the new super poopers like the STW and others your playing with dynamite and I have seen a lot of actions with developed headspace and factory ammo is being cut back quitely as a result of the beginning overloading, and guess what you can safely get 7 mag velocities when its all said and done...Hype sells America in the gunworld. ------------------ | |||
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one of us |
I've found the "max" for that caliber and that bullet weight to be 80 grains of H-1000 with Federal 215 primers (at all altitudes and temperatures). | |||
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DB Bill, Yes, I am somewhat inexperienced. So what is the big deal? That is why I posted this question on this excellent forum. I was confident that I would get sound advice and I did. I do appreciate your advice, none the less. Daryl | |||
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