I reload for a Model 14 Remington pump in .30 Rem., and for a Model 141 Remington pump in .32 Remington. Both of these rifles have unbelievably strong magazine springs -- so strong that, even when I roll crimp bullets, every now and then a bullet will be pushed back into the case and rest upon the powder.

Like I said, I already crimp.

Any suggestions?

I'd buy a replacement magazine spring from Numrich. Shorten the spring until the bullets don't get stuffed into the cases but the rounds will still feed from the magazine.

Lord, I hate to alter a nearly 100-year-old rifle if there's another way. Every one I've ever seen had that strong magazine spring, so I assume it is that way for a reason.

Would a taper crimp hold the bullet tighter?

quote:

Originally posted by GAHUNTER:
I reload for a Model 14 Remington pump in .30 Rem., and for a Model 141 Remington pump in .32 Remington. Both of these rifles have unbelievably strong magazine springs -- so strong that, even when I roll crimp bullets, every now and then a bullet will be pushed back into the case and rest upon the powder.

Like I said, I already crimp.

Any suggestions?

Are you using cannelured bullets? If so, you might try running your seating die another 1/8 turn or so to increase the crimp.

Another thing to think about is case length. Could the "faulty" cases be a tad short, thereby not giving complete crimp?

Regards,
hm

I agree....there's a reason for the strength of the spring....

If this helps.....some bullets have a machined groove for a cannelure and it affords a much deeper crimp...Swift A-Frames for example and possibly others too.....Northfork?...

Most cannelures are simply pressed in with a wheel in the bullet press in an attachment for that purpose....they are not as generous as a cut groove.

I'd look for a bullet that affords a better crimp.....yes I know....spendy bullets!

Has it always done this?

As mentioned, about the only things you can change are a weaker spring or a stronger crimp and I'll agree with making sure the crimp is in the cannelure groove.

Check your expander buttons. They should be .002" or more under bullet diameter. You can always remove .001" for a tighter bullet fit. Other problem could be thin brass in the neck area.. Sizing die not sizing down the neck enough. Wrong bullet diameter.

+1 on checking the expander ball diameter. For my 35 Rem mod 141 and 14s in 32 and 25, I crimp the case in the sizing die. It acts as a taper crimp and you can crimp tighter without deforming the case. Another option is the Lee Factory Crimp Die. The 35 is a standard item. According to Lee's site they will custom make for any caliber. I have used them in 30-30 and 32-20 with great results.

+2 on checking the expander ball diameter.

Also what powder are you using?
Is there any powder that you could use that would give you a safe, slightly compressed load?

The reason for the strong spring is to keep
the cartridges in place during recoil. Bullets
intended for tube magazines have crimping grooves. As to the inside sizer ball try to
push an uncrimped bullet into the case, it
should take some force, the crimpgroove is
an extra.

Yes, Both rifles have always done this, but the .30 Rem more so than the .32. I've about stopped the .32 from movement by firmly applying the roll crimp. The .30 still moves occasionally.

Lee says I can use their 30-30 factory crimp die on the .30 Rem., So I don't have to shell out for a custom die. I'm ordering one today!

Neck tension is more important then crimp. IMO.

take the expander ball out of the die set.
i have had compressed loads get longer and have had to use the extra tension to keep the bullet in place.
for my lever guns if the crimp and neck tension don't hold then i gotta use a case full of powder to keep things in place.

quote:

Originally posted by GAHUNTER:
Lord, I hate to alter a nearly 100-year-old rifle if there's another way. Every one I've ever seen had that strong magazine spring, so I assume it is that way for a reason.

Would a taper crimp hold the bullet tighter?

A taper crimp will not hold as well as a roll crimp.

As the other posters have said make sure you have a bullet designed for the cartridge with a crimp groove, and be aware too that applying too much crimp can actually loosen the cases hold on the bullet. Over doing it will cause the case neck to bulge slightly behind the crimp and relax its grip. Firm neck tension on the bullet is a must when trying to hold a bullet in place.

I'm using 170-grain bullets manufactured specifically for the 30-30, which all have a cannelure. I would never try to roll crimp an uncannelured bullet.

Lee Factory Crimp Die on the way.

Problem solved. The Lee Factory Crimp Die in 30-30 did the trick. I just have to remember that the .30 Remington case is .010 longer than the 30-30 case, meaning that in order to put the crimp in the proper place, I have to trim my cases to the minimum every loading.

That Lee crimp die is the bees knees!