I am trying to neck size for my 7mm Rem Mag but something isn't right.

I am using my Redding Big Boss and a torque wrench (Precision Shooting)in place of the handle.

Here's what's going on:

I have the handle in the horizontal position(following the directions) and the die is screwed down to touch the shell holder plus one
turn. I have the torque set at 25lbs according to Lee's direction. When I run a casing up, it does absolutely nothing to neck the case. I began increasing torque and I only got a little bit of tension when I hit 55lbs so something ain't right!

Since the shell holder does contact the ram, it doesn't seem like the ram can put much tension on the case or move the case very far up into the die???

Do any of you have an idea of what I am doing wrong? It is driving me crazy.

Thanks!

Frank

I turn my die down 2 turns. It will give more travel. Once the ram reaches the end of it's travel all the ft-lbs in the world won't help.

I find that screwing the die down more will give more movement and the torque wrench will keep things consistent.

I'd tell you my thoughts but there's a couple 3 or 4 here that can tell you how in much more detail than I

2 or 3 pages of details

Come on Ted! Don't be shy!

I use the Lee Collet die on many calibers and always use it if I have one for the caliber I'm shooting and want it only neck-sized.

In more instances than not, I've found that the mandrel (decapping pin) needs to be reduced in diameter about .001" or .002" to provide adequate neck tension. This is especially true if you are resizing brass which has been fired several times since it will be slightly work-hardened and therefore will have more springback.

Lee will sell you a reduced-diameter mandrel, but it is silly-simple to do it yourself. If you have a drill press available, chuck the mandrel in the press and hold a wrap of very fine emery cloth around it as it spins. Use a caliper to determine when you have removed sufficient metal, which really doesn't take long (Lee products are well-engineered, but made from relatively soft metal). You need to make the diameter reduction on the upper part of the mandrel where the collet squeezes against it. I like to leave the lower tip full size so that you can feel the case neck drag just a bit as it pulls over it. This won't increase the diameter of the neck in any measurable way.

HOWEVER, before doing this, check to see if your collet is clean and free from machining debris. Debris is often left in the collet cuts, which can prevent them from fully closing, thus result in incomplete squeezing of the case neck against the collet. It is also important to lubricate the upper tapered part of the die insert which squeezes the collet to assure that as little handle pressure on the press as possible is needed.

All of that said, I don't use a torque wrench for a press handle, and recognizing that various presses have different degrees of compound leverage, I don't see how Lee can specify a particular amount of handle torque as resulting in a certain amount of collet pressure. Toss the torque wrench and put the amount of pressure on the press handle that it takes to do the job you're doing. If you press too hard for too many cycles the bottom of the collet will start to deform since Lee makes if from steel which is softer than your shell holder. If this happens, order another collet from Lee (they're cheap), clean it up before you use it, and start using a bit less pressure on the handle.

By the way, reducing the size of the mandrel is an easy way to reduce the necessary pressure on the handle -- just don't get it too small as this makes the bullet unnecessarily expand the brass as it is seated which is counter to good accuracy.

If Redding made the Lee Collet die it would last three times as long, but it would cost five times as much. So, enjoy!

Leopardtrack, It is not up to me but I discourage reloaders from starting from a dead stop to reloading in a dead run with specialty dies. Most of my work is done with the versatile full length sizer die. With the one die I can form cases for short chambers, minimum length chambers, go-gage length chambers, no go-gage length chamber, field reject length chamber and chambers that are .016” longer than a minimum length case.

I can only guess the torque wrench is the latest accessory. I have deflection gages, strain gages etc., and now the torque wrench.

Shell holder contacts the ram? The shell holder is installed on the tip of the ram, if there is contact it will be between the top of the shell holder and bottom of the die. The die does not size the case body. Again, I suggest you use full length sizer dies. Your cases were shorter from the shoulder to the head of the case than the chamber from the shoulder/datum of the shoulder to the bolt face. If you do not have a full length sizer die I suggest you start over by purchasing one.

F. Guffey

Stonecreek,

What should my mandrel measure?? .282??

Stonecreek, explain to him his cases were fired in his other chamber.

I said I do not suggest nor do I recommend a reloader start with specialty dies. I do not suggest a reloader start modifying dies before he understands how they are to be used, used as in how they are to be adjusted.

F. Guffey

+1 on reducing the mandrel. I do it by inserting mandrel (pin end) into the chuck of a cordless drill and hold a rag with polishing compound around the mandrel as it spins. Sure there are more sophisticated ways but this works for me.

Guffey,

You have given me allot of help and good advice on several of my posts and I thank you and everyone else here for that.

You make great sense to start with the basics and work up to more specialized equipment but in the day of the internet it also makes sense to take full advantage of all the knowledge that's out and to try out the most efficient equipment available. You could say that I am cramming for a test and trying to get 100!

I have the upmost respect for guys like you who learned to reload the hard way...reading books, word of mouth, and trial and error. It is also heart-warming that people like you take the time to pass your knowledge on to guys like me.

Thanks to all!

Frank

quote:

Originally posted by Leopardtrack:
Stonecreek,

What should my mandrel measure?? .282??

I'm not sure what Lee's standard for 7mm cartridges is. But whatever your mandrel measures as it came from the factory, if you will reduce it by .001" or .002" it will probably give you the neck tension you desire.

Guffey mentioned cases fired in another rifle (or in this case, another chamber) . There is no problem using the Collet die on such cases if they chamber easily before resizing. The only instance in which it is necessary to use a conventional full length resizing die is when the cases will not chamber easily.

Leopardtrack, forgive and thank you,

I had two 300 Win Mags, one a non-Weatherby the other a Model 70, cases fired in the non-Weatherby could chamber in the Model 70, cases fired in the Model 70 would have 1.500” case protrusion when chambered in the non-Weatherby. Cases fired in the non-Weatherby required no effort to size, on the other hand when sizing cases fireg in the model 70 I thought the die was going to explode from resistance.

I measured the chambers for length and diameter, the chamber in the Model 70 was the ugliest chamber I had ever seen, I contacted Winchester, in the beginning they thought I was difficult, in a few days they thought I was impossible, basically I wanted a Model 70 with a chamber that matched my dies or I wanted a set of Winchester dies that matched their chamber. They polished, they honed and they reamed, still the chamber was too large. The rifle was shipped back to them and returned with no explanation, that had to be 4 years ago.

The non-Weatherby shot one hole groups, the Model 70 Winchester shot patterns like a shot gun.

There are not many dies I do not have, I would suggest you first determine if the fired cases will chamber, if not I suggest you adjust the full length sizer die off the shell holder .006” then size a few of your fired cases. If after sizing the cases chamber I would suggest you adjust the die off the shell holder .008” and try again. I want my cases to fit between the shoulder and bolt face, I want to control case travel.

F. Guffey

Guffey,

"Forgive" for what...you are helping ME and I appreciate it!

Thanks to you all, I resolved the issue. First off, I measured (Stonecreek) my mandrel and it measured .282.5 so I used a bit of emery and a drill and took it down to .282 best I could.

I also realized that I was not putting nearly enough muscle on the handle, so I just screwed the die down until I couldn't seat a bullet by hand and I could barely push it into the case by pressing the nose against my bench so I think I am good to go!

I will only give this advise with the Lee collet die.

After you size then turn the case 1/8 of a turn and size it again.

This irons out the 4 distinct parts of the neck that fall within the collet grooves and gives you a 100% diameter that has been sized.

I also reduced the mandrel by .001

Thanks Ted. I did just that so each case got 2 strokes

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:
I will only give this advise with the Lee collet die.

After you size then turn the case 1/8 of a turn and size it again.

This irons out the 4 distinct parts of the neck that fall within the collet grooves and gives you a 100% diameter that has been sized.

I also reduced the mandrel by .001

+1!

I forgot to mention this trick. It not only gives you slightly more neck tension, it makes for a rounder neck. It takes only a second or two to pull the case part-way out of the die after the first sizing, rotate it 1/8th turn with your fingers while still in the shellholder, and run it back into the die once again with full pressure.

As Ted says, this allows the solid portion of the collet to fall directly on the tiny "rib" left on the neck from the first sizing and makes the case neck very uniform and snug.

Good idea Ted!

I think that also helps Straighten the necks.

I use the LEE Taper Crimp dies as well. I really don't crimp them hard just a light touch and I rotate the round and and do the crimp a second time.