I am looking for some advice on how to cut bullets in half to see how they are constructed. What do you use and what is the best method? Thanks a head of time for all your replies.

A band saw with fine tooth band is the best, or a scroll saw will work if the bullet is not a solid.
Easiest way is to drill a hole in a piece of wood that is bullet diameter (to hold the bullet) and then make your cut. Then use sand paper to clean up any rough edges and smearing of lead.

I have laid them on wood with a small finishing nail pounded almost all the way in against the base. Pencil around the bullet shape and wittle the shape out so roughly half is into the wood. Then file it with a mill file or double cut file length wise. It works but take a little time. Use a steel wire brush or file card to clean the lead out of the teeth.

I've never done it..yet,but if I did I would use Big Nate's idea..........and add a belt sander.

HA! I tried this about 25 years ago on my fathers bench grinder! Lead fills up the grinding wheel which builds up heat and the lead melts. It then drips out,landing all over the first and second fingers on the left hand and sticks to ya'. It leaves scars that never fade. I learned a lesson that day. A father will not hesitate to whip your butt for screwing with bullets and messing up a new grinding wheel, wounded or not!

Alan

With my .54 cal. Flintlock, I shoot at a double bit ax inbedded in a stump. Offhand, from about 12yds, I can do it about 2 out of three times. Clay pidgeons on either side verify whether the split was near center.

Off center hits result in only one clay bird breaking.

Might be a little tough with a 17 Rem. though. Anything fron .22 up should be a "piece of cake"!

If you dig up the Match King thread, you will find a description. If you post on it, you will not do well.

I have sectioned many cartridges full length from primer to tip. First, I would drill some matching and lined up holes in a pine board (face to face then drill down into the joint) to hold the case securely when clamped in a vise. I would drill, for example, a 2" deep hole of 1/2" diameter for a .30-06 size case. When all is secure, and you are wearing your safety glasses, start sawing at the tip of the bullet with a jewelers saw (like a fully adjustable coping saw) with a fine blade (the thicker the material being cut, the more coarse the blade may be). The case neck will hoold the bullet securely all the way through the cut. After the bullet is completely cut through it may be easily pulled out. At this point you can continue on down towards the primer for a full length cut or angle the cut out to the side of the case for just an upper cutaway. In any case, at this point DUMP THE POWDER AND KILL THE PRIMER WITH WD-40! If you're going full length, just keep sawing away. If the saw blade is "grabbing" switch to finer teeth. Pull the case up out of the block as needed but keep it clamped tight. Stay centered! I've sawn through many killed primers with no problems at all. When done, clean the job up on emery cloth and/or on a fine cut file. For sectioning a bullet only, clamp it between two pieces of wood and saw away.

I'm spoiled, I use a mill.

I don't know why a mill wouldn't work but with my method, if done carefully, you can section a full cartridge (or just a bullet) and get two halves; one for yourself and one for trade. The mill might create problems on specially constructed bullets, such as tracers, spotters (saw them underwater), Snider bullets (hollow nose cavity and clay plug in base), etc.

Al, you've got me wondering -- are you using a slitting saw on the mill or just slabbing one side off? BTW, I bailed out of southwest Michigan six years ago due to snow, clouds, rain, more clouds, and the endless cold.

The manly way to cut a bullet in half involves a good sharp ax, set up about 3 feet from the muzzle, with edge pointed toward the muzzle. Don't mess with those sissy ways.