I have reloaded for 40 years so I'm pretty sure I know how things should work. However, I just bought a Marlin 336 in 35 Remington. I reload for many bolt guns and a Winchester 94 but I have not had the problems I'm having now with this Marlin. At first I tried to size down to just above the neck. The bolt would close but only with a lot of pressure. Then I set the RCBS die as if I was full length resizing and still it would not close without a lot of force. I then measured the shell holder and found another RCBS # shell holder that was .010 narrower but would still hold the case. At that point the bolt refused to close on the dummy round. These tests of course were with fired cases from the gun and then fitted with a bullet in an unprimed case. How do I get these reloads to function in this rifle as the factory loads do? Help!!

I had so much trouble with RCBS die sets I quit buying them ~20 years ago. The last straw was a situation like yours. I sized a fired case in the FL die and it would not chamber back in the same rifle, with or without a bullet. I tried everything, finally put the case on a V-block and spun it. The case was no longer straight, it had a slight curve in it like a banana! Danged warped sizing die. A Redding die set fixed the problem, permanently.

I don't know if this is your problem or not, but it could be. If the fired cases rechamber, but they don't after resizing, it's the die!



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Then I set the RCBS die as if I was full length resizing and still it would not close without a lot of force.

I wonder; did you 'set' the die by the factory instructions or did you set the die so it actually contacts the shell holder when a case is fully inserted? If not, do so.

Jim C's tip is a good one.

As you probably already know, the Marlin does not lock-up at the front of the bolt. That means the bolt can get temporarily "squished" a little in length during firing, and allow the brass to stretch a little between the rim and the shoulder. It needs to have the shoulder moved back to near SAAMI specs when resizing to be sure of it chambering easily.

Another possibility, but one I can't imagine occuring with that particular cartridge designation and brass, is that your case necks could become so thick as to prevent chambering when a bullet is seated in the case. But like I say, I have never even heard of that happening in a .35 Remington chambered Marlin lever gun.

Yet another pssibility, but again highly unlikely,is that you have the bullets seated too far out and the throat of the chamber is being forced to act as a final bullet-seating die when you chamber a reloaded round. But, if you can work the loaded rounds from your magazine tube through your action without them hanging up, I'd cross that possibility off the conceivably likely list too.

So, I suspect Jim's answer will be the correct one for you.

After a break I went back and thought this out. I tried an unloaded case and it worked just fine. I then did what I should have done first and checked the rifle for maximum overall length with bullet with a gauge I have. That turned out to be 2.490 inches. That meant I was seating the bullet to the cannelure not maximum oal. As it truns out I will have to trim the case back .090 inches to get to the cannelure so I can crimp. That seems like a lot but what other choice do I have if I want to crimp? Thanks

Aha! So the bullets WERE seated too far out. Well, at least the problem is now known, along with a solution.

There are a couple of other things you can do rather than trim your brass that much (if the trimming bothers you).

One, of course, is to use a different bullet...one with the crimping cannelure correctly placed for the .35 Remington cartridge.

Two, is to get a bullet cannelure device and put your own crimping cannelure wherever you need it, as an addition to the factory one.

A third option and one I might try first, is to get a slightly smaller expanding ball for your sizing die, thus leaving the case a housandth or two tighter at the neck. Then you could try not crimping at all, as more case neck tension might offset any need for a crimp.

(You can make the expander ball a bit smaller yourself just by chucking it in an electric screwdriver or drill, and while holding a little 400 grit paper in your other hand, spin the expander ball and grasp it with the gritted paper. Naturally the ball will still be on the decapping stem... Be careful and go slow if you do it yourself as it is much easier to take diameter off the ball than to put it back on.)

Last, but not least, try cast bullets. They will work fine up to 2,200 fps or slightly faster, and it is no big trick to get a mould made with the crimping groove placed wherever you want.

All sounds like fun experimenting to me. I also have a Marlin 336 in .35 Remington and have never had a problem with reloading it. Guess I'll have to trot out to my gun room today or tomorrow and measure some of my loaded rounds to see what I may be doing different from you.

Good luck and best wishes,

AC

If your cases are trimmed to the correct length , and you can't crimp in the cannelure , then you are not using the right bullet ! Not every .35 bullet works in the .35 Rem/336 Marlin . The 200 Gr. Speer and the 200 Gr. Sierra , are made for that combo . I sure as heck wouldn't shorten my cases close to a tenth of an inch , just to accomidate an incorrect bullet . I bet you are using Hornadys !

I'm using Sierra 200 grn RN #2800. The Hornady FTX bullets I measured for have exactly the same situation .90 off the case to be in the middle of the cannelure. Measured off the cocked bolt face to the tip of the bullet in the chamber. Max OAL 2.430 minus .30 off the lands. For this rifle 2.400 max OAL. That is .100 under max from the Lyman reloading manual. I'm curious. Does anyone have a factory loaded 35 Rem cartridge they could measure the OAL for me? If I didn't know any better I'd guess the barrel was set back. But the rifle is in excellent condition. I'm a bit nervous about a compressed powder charge if I cut that much off and seat the bullet that deep. I'm about ready to head back to the gun shop I bought it from. Help!!

If the barrel was "set back" and not rechambered, you would not be able to chamber a cartridge - it would hang up on the shoulder. Have you actually tried chambering a sized cartridge with the bullet loaded to the length you "think" is right? DO NOT trim the necks by 0.090"! Or is it 0.9"? You are confusing us - and yourself - by not using decimals consistently. You cannot go by factory ammo to determine loa, the bullets have different ogives and bearing surfaces.

Sierra lists their 200-grain bullet as seated to 2.475" oal. Does the bullet in a sized case show signs of contact with the rifling? This bullet is designed for the .35 Rem and if it's cannelure does not come very close to the case mouth at the correct loa, then something else is wrong. Find out what it is, don't ruin your cases by cutting them too short. Seat a bullet in the sized case to a loa of 2.4" and try it, then let us know what happened.

I measured MY .35 Remington handloaded rounds this afternoon as I told you I would. OAL with the bullets properly placed and a heavy crimp is 2.480" exactly. They work easily through the action/magazine and group well from my Marlin 336.

Sorry I cannot remember their brand. I have my ammo unpacked from the move and sorted by caliber and cartridge designation, but I do not have my bullets sorted out and put away. I know they are either Speer or Hornady 200 gr. RN...probably Hornady, but that's all I can say about them for the moment.

Anyway, if you are checking bullets to find one with the cannelure in the right place, you can measure the length of the brass, and carry that around on a little note in your wallet. Then When looking at bullets, use a set of calipers to measure the distance from the cannelure to the tip of the nose. Add that to the length of the cartridge case and you'll have a very close approximation of the OAL using that bullet and properly crimped.

That won't tell you whether the ogive will be touching the lands somewhere in the tapered throat or not, but it will tell you if the OAL is so long the cartridges may not function from your magazine. If they won't function from the magazine you can almost bet they won't chamber either.

As your gun was intended for use with 200 grain bullets, it is unlikely heavier commercial jacketed bullets will work in it though stranger things have likely happened. Are you sure the bullets you are trying are not 250 gr. RNs which most bullet companies also make, but which are NOT for the .35 Remington?

The crimping part and cannelure is driving me crazy. Forget the OAL gauge. I seated the bullet to 2.475 as you suggested. Bolt would not close. I then slowly seated the bullet until the bolt closed with minimal effort. That OAL became 2.435. That seated the bullet just above the cannelure. Things are looking better. Now I'm figuring .030 off the case should put the case mouth just above the middle of the cannelure. That I can live with. That OAL gauge telling me I had to take of .090 of the case was not a good plan. I knew I was missing something. I've never dealt with crimping for a lever gun so I appreciate the help. Any last suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

I use the rem 200 cl for the 35 rem, and I crimp right in the cannelure. no case trimming needed. do you have bullets for the 358 win? those won't expand as well as bullets meant for the 35 rem speed. ETA I checked, and no you do not have the wrong bullets. hmmmm.

BTW I use 37.0 gr H335 ans the rem 200 rn cl in rem brass and it shoots well. 1" 3-shot groups at 50 yds with a weaver 4x. I do love that gun.

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Originally posted by aaahunter:
I seated the bullet to 2.475 as you suggested. Bolt would not close. I then slowly seated the bullet until the bolt closed with minimal effort. That OAL became 2.435. That seated the bullet just above the cannelure....

my reloads mic at 2.500; rem 200 CL factory and WW powerpoint at 2.510; win 200 silvertip at 2.520. all feed in my marlin lever.

you should not be having such short OAL needs.

I measured Rem. 200 Gr. Kore-Lokt at 2.512 and Win. 200 Silver Tips at the same length 2.512 . Does factory ammo chamber in your rifle ? I just compared the 200 Gr. Sierra against a Rem. factory 200 and there is a huge difference in the ogives . The Sierras are larger in diameter further up the bullet . I'm thinking maybe your Marlin doesn't like that bullet . I have only used that bullet in the .358 Win. and assumed , since it had a cannelure that it was made for the .35 Rem. . I'd give Sierra a call and pick one of their tech's brains ! Have you tried any other RNs in it ?