I just started loading for my 629, using W296. Seems to burn pretty dirty, but giving me good accuracy. After I got started I saw a few places where guys said you had to use magnum primers with this powder, I'm using cci300 (non magnum), seems to be fine. Why the magnums?

Thanks

W296/H110 are ball powders which are known to be a bit hard to ignite, especially in lower temps. Most data I`ve seen recommends the mag primers because of this.
I too though have loaded H110 with std primers in my 44mag and use nothing but std primers in it with others powders such as 2400, Unique, ect. If the regular primers work and you are getting good results I`d keep loading them.

Why the magnums (primers)?


A magnum revolver, chambered in a magnum caliber, loaded with magnum powder, yet you complain when NOT using a magnum primer.

Winchester recommends mag primers because of the heavy deterrent coating on this slow burning pistol powder, which they also recommend NOT be reduced more than 3% of max. It works fine in my S&W 629 when following Winchester's rules, which also include a heavy crimp.

Ditto on that one !.

I like using IMR 4227 least wise in my case it out preforms the 296 Not sure if it did on 2400 though . I'm not referring to velocity but accuracy . In my Smith 629 and Ruger SS Red Hawk .

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Yep, W296 & H110 require a mag primer for compelete ignition, especially in colder weather. Load to near max. & use a mag primer.

i used to load 110 & 296. you are right it is kind of dirty. i went to accurate #9. cleaner, and just as accurate. i always use mag. primers in mag. type hand guns.

Thanks guys, not complaining by the way, just live miles from the store and want to use what I have.

Why is it important to not reduce more than 3% with this powder? Mag primers will help with the unburned powder residue I'm seeing? I deal with cold weather up here, so I will probably have to get the mag primers when I can.

quote:

Originally posted by NMiller:
Thanks guys, not complaining by the way, just live miles from the store and want to use what I have.

Why is it important to not reduce more than 3% with this powder? Mag primers will help with the unburned powder residue I'm seeing? I deal with cold weather up here, so I will probably have to get the mag primers when I can.

If the pressure drops enough, the powder can actually fail to ignite completely or delay ignition, either is bad. W296 is a max. effort powder, if you want more versatility in you 44mag, go to 2400, AA#9 or even 4227.

I think I will do that, I want to make a load for plinking/practice. Don't need 1400 fps for that!

Fred, do the ones you mentioned burn clean?

Blue Dot is another good versatile powder for .44 Magnum.

quote:

Originally posted by NMiller:
I think I will do that; I want to make a load for plinking/practice. Don't need 1400 fps for that!

Fred, do the ones you mentioned burn clean?

A better powder for low pressure loads in a 44 Mag is Hodgdon's Universal Clays. It is the same burning rate as Unique, but is cleaner.

Thanks Win 69, in that case would the same recipes apply to Universal Clays as Unique?

quote:

Originally posted by NMiller:
In that case, would the same recipes apply to Universal Clays as Unique?

It should be within 0.5 gr. Since you're working with reduced pressure loads, it won't matter much.

I've seen comparable loads having the same charge, and some with Universal being 0.5 gr. less. Hodgdon's website has load info.

www.hodgdon.com

Thanks Winchester 69, if they are the same burn rate, can you use recipes interchangeably?

Sorry about the double post, internet problems.

Hey guys, I’m new in home assembly too, and have a question if you can help please.

It’s written that you should stay with the exact data listed in the manual. I have the Lyman 48th addition and Lee Data Manual.
In Lyman the listed data for 44Magnum 240Gr jacked HP use with Remington brass, CCI 350 and 11 different powders, no problem but….

I have a bunch of once fired Hornady brass I’d like to use can I safely substitute the Hornady brass for the Remington?

All the books say to stick with the exact written recipe, Must I when it comes to the case?

Vinnyg,

The internal dimensions of brass varies some by manufacturer. If you want to substitute a different maker's brass in an existing hot load, it is best to back down some and rework the load.

If you're starting to develop a load and starting at the lower range of a powder maker's recommendation (near the starting load) it is not likely that the make of the brass is important.

Read the section of the reloading manual on good reloading practices ... they are really important. Much better safe than sorry!

quote:

All the books say to stick with the exact written recipe, Must I when it comes to the case?

No matter what component you change it will alter the load in some way. That doesn`t mean you can`t use other components, just that you should be aware the load may or may not max out where the book says. Keep a good eye out for problems as you work up and you should be fine. I, and 99% of the others I`m sure here, exchange components very regular.

Thanks mike,
I’ll start at reduced loads anyway being new to reloading.

By the way, on the 35 Whelen I had deer keep running when shot with the 250 grain bullet like it never performed because of the power it has. 3,100 Ft Lbs at the muzzle.
But every Deer I ever shot with the mild 35 Remington in a 200 gr SP put them down right in their place, some flipping to their death before they hit the ground.
Of course all shot’s were less than 100 Yards. That’s why I feel that it’s too powerful.

But I love my Whelen and see that Speer makes a 180 Grain FSP #2435 and Sierra makes a 200 Grain RN. I’d like to try a lighter load for deer and save the 250’s for Bear.

Whatta ya think?

quote:

Originally posted by vinnyg:
Hey guys, I’m new in home assembly too, and have a question if you can help please.

It’s written that you should stay with the exact data listed in the manual. I have the Lyman 48th addition and Lee Data Manual.
In Lyman the listed data for 44Magnum 240Gr jacked HP use with Remington brass, CCI 350 and 11 different powders, no problem but….

I have a bunch of once fired Hornady brass I’d like to use can I safely substitute the Hornady brass for the Remington?

All the books say to stick with the exact written recipe, Must I when it comes to the case?

Yes & no. If you are loading at the max. load, then you need to not change your components, once you have worked the load up for your gun of course. If you are running a middle of the road load pressure wise, then swapping one brand of primer, case or bullet will have little affect on safe pressures.
Nmiller, if you are looking for 900fps plinkers, then Unqiue or Universal are good choices. 2400, BlueDot, AA#9 are still best at near max. or just off max. BTW, Universal & Unique are NOT interchangable, close but not identical. If you using starting data for either you can work up a max. load though.