OK, I've never tried to reload a pistol round before, but will soon tackle the .45 ACP. I've been handloading for about seven years for rifle cartridges, currently loading for about 15 calibers, including some straight-wall cases like the .458 Lott, 404 Jeffery and the .45-70.

I need all the tips I can get on what powder, cases, bullets, primers, etc., to use to mass produce functional .45 ACP rounds as cheaply as possible ("cheap" being the operative word).

Seriously, is there a lot of difference loading pistol rounds vs. rifle rounds (I know about belling the case mouth)?

quote:

Originally posted by GAHUNTER:
OK, I've never tried to reload a pistol round before, but will soon tackle the .45 ACP. I've been handloading for about seven years for rifle cartridges, currently loading for about 15 calibers, including some straight-wall cases like the .458 Lott, 404 Jeffery and the .45-70.

I need all the tips I can get on what powder, cases, bullets, primers, etc., to use to mass produce functional .45 ACP rounds as cheaply as possible ("cheap" being the operative word).

Seriously, is there a lot of difference loading pistol rounds vs. rifle rounds (I know about belling the case mouth)?

Crimp either taper or rolled is needed.

I cast my own bullets, but in your case a good cheap 200gr cast bullet works great, I use either Bullseye or Red Dot powder as they use the least amount of grains of powder meaning more reloads per lb. and any LP primer will work

Good pistol rounds require far less precision that rifle. (I say that after loading about 200k rounds of 45ACp over the last 25 years for various IPSC / IDPA pursuits). Any range brass will do. You should be able to pick some up for around $50-60/1000. Use either the 200 lead SWC or the 230 RN. There are lots of bullet sources, I like laser-cast. Any large pistol primer. For powder, I like 6.1g of 231, but there are other choices as well. Finally, if you are serious about loading in volume, you will quickly want a Dillon press.

taper crimp your rounds and you will eliminate many feeding problems. do not roll crimp because the 45 case headspaces on the case mouth

I just started reloading the 45 and haven't found to be any issues from my rifle reloading.

Head space is off the front rim of the case, so just watch your case length, but having said that, I haven't noticed any case stretching with the load I am using after about 3 times on the brass.

I load 5.1gr of titegroup with a 230 fmj RN hornaday bullet, federal large pistol primer, and taper crimp.

I have the dillion die and a 550 press.

Biggest issue I see now is trying to find the bullets I use. I will be glad when this run on ammo comes to an end.

OK. What's a "taper crimp"? I've always used a roll crimp on my big bore rounds (utilizing the seating die).

I've found 230-grain FMJ Precison Delta bullets to be the cheapest so far at $114 per 1000, delivered. Finding cheap once-fired brass has been a little more problamatic. I keep hearing about cheap brass, but the best deals I can find on the net have been more in the $70-$80 range per K.

I know that the .45 ACP is a relatively low pressure round, but does that equate to long brass life? How many loads do you get out of a piece of brass (on average)? Also, is there any advantage to nickel plated brass?

See, I know nothing about pistol loading.

O.K. .45 ACP is one of few cases that headspaces on the mouth of the case. Thus case length is fairly critical. You need to trim to length for absolute best function/accuracy... but most brass is close enough you needn't worry. Since you said cheap. Roll crimp dies actually shorten the case a trifle when they roll the mouth. Taper crimp dies don't. They squeeze the mouth a bit tighter without a roll. Best way to go with .45 ACP, .30 Carbine... the headspace on mouth cases.

With the hostility overseas and the Obama boom in buying components, yes, brass at $70-$80 is pretty fair. You have to shop. Google brass often and see what the market has.

Nickel brass is easier to find in the grass as a rule. It also corrodes less easily in leather belt loops, etc. Otherwise, it can scratch dies a bit, but not if lubed enough and looks bad when the nickle peels... If it is cheap, no reason to ignore it, but no great reason to seek it either.

To load a straight case pistol round requires a 3rd die to expand and bell the cases prior to seating the bullets. This bell or flare is a slight trumpet shape added to the case mouth. After belling the powder dropped in then the bullet is seated.

The taper crimp die is not really a crimp die.
It is more of a taper sizing die that irons out the belling of the case mouth after the round is loaded. Tapering the case mouths slightly enhances the feeding of the rounds.
You can't roll crimp 45 ACP for use in an autoloader since the case mouth is the functional feature that the case headspaces upon.

You might try to locate a volume caster within driving distance if possible. You save on the shipping and you might find a local that is very price competitive.

If you are going to load in volume at the lowest price you would normally be looking for a faster burning powder. Some of these powders can be double charged. A double charge will cause a train wreck. Think about getting a loader with a lock out die or use a powder that cannot be double charged if you go with some sort of a progressive.

If loading with a single stage press just load in batches and inspect the powder level with a flash light before you seat the bullets.

T&T Reloading is in eastern PA., but even with UPS shipping 1K of 200gr hardcast lead boolits is less than $100 (less if you went with 185gr, more if you went with 230gr). And Tony sells them in lots up to 5K...which would end up costing less than 10 cents per boolit.

You didn't indicate what brand or type 45ACP pistol you shoot. Not all function well with lead boolits. In that case, plated bullets are the ticket.

Any 45 ACP die set will include a taper crimp die. I've never seen a 45 ACP roll crimp die. You do not need to trim cases, it is almost impossible for them to stretch enough to cause a headspace problem. You can shoot brass until is splits (or you lose it, much more likely). A few years ago, one of th etop bullseye competitors did a serious accuracy test between carefully weighed, trimmed, matched, preped cases and random mrange brass as picked up. found no difference. You can find brass on gunbroker, but asking at the local range or local guns shows is easier and probably cheaper.

quote:

Originally posted by Hunt-ducks:

quote:

Originally posted by GAHUNTER:
OK, I've never tried to reload a pistol round before, but will soon tackle the .45 ACP. I've been handloading for about seven years for rifle cartridges, currently loading for about 15 calibers, including some straight-wall cases like the .458 Lott, 404 Jeffery and the .45-70.

I need all the tips I can get on what powder, cases, bullets, primers, etc., to use to mass produce functional .45 ACP rounds as cheaply as possible ("cheap" being the operative word).

Seriously, is there a lot of difference loading pistol rounds vs. rifle rounds (I know about belling the case mouth)?

Crimp either taper or rolled is needed.

I cast my own bullets, but in your case a good cheap 200gr cast bullet works great, I use either Bullseye or Red Dot powder as they use the least amount of grains of powder meaning more reloads per lb. and any LP primer will work

I agree with this posting. A 200 grain cast bullet with Bullseye 4.3 grains and away you go. Good Luck.

quote:

Originally posted by bradhe:
Any 45 ACP die set will include a taper crimp die. I've never seen a 45 ACP roll crimp die. You do not need to trim cases, it is almost impossible for them to stretch enough to cause a headspace problem. You can shoot brass until is splits (or you lose it, much more likely). A few years ago, one of th etop bullseye competitors did a serious accuracy test between carefully weighed, trimmed, matched, preped cases and random mrange brass as picked up. found no difference. You can find brass on gunbroker, but asking at the local range or local guns shows is easier and probably cheaper.

All very true. The biggest thing to remember loading for pistol rounds is unlike rifle rounds, small changes in components can dramatically increase pressures. While you accuracy requirements are not as precise, your loading technique had better be. Running what I term uberfast powders like TG, Clays & Bullseye, can mean a double charge or bullet setback that can ruin your day. I would suggest to start, you use nothing faster than W231/Hp38 (same powder). Use loads well off the max. shown from 3 data sources averaged. Over all length (OAL)is also more critical in pistol ammo. Rounds seated too deeply can push pressrue to beyond safe. A bullet seated as little as 1/16th" deeper than spec can raise pressures beyond safe, dependiong on the load used.
Brass will last almost idefinitely. I have some 45acp cases loaded so many times you can no longer read the headstamp.

You'll likely loose your .45 ACP cases before they need a trim. I shoot steel targets with guys who have been shooting the same brass for over a decade...if they can find it. Of course it doesn't even have a headstamp on it anymore.

I check mine every few loads and I've never trimmed one and I shoot a fair amount of .45 weekly.

Wether you get a taper crimp in a die set depends nowdays. I do not believe Hornady dies for the .45acp come with a taper crimp as it's also for 2 other cartridges that do not taper crimp.

As much as I am not a fan of Lee I do like their 4 set of handgun dies which gets you a separate bullet seater die and a separate taper crimp die which really makes things go smooth for me.

quote:

Originally posted by fredj338:

All very true. The biggest thing to remember loading for pistol rounds is unlike rifle rounds, small changes in components can dramatically increase pressures. While you accuracy requirements are not as precise, your loading technique had better be. Running what I term uberfast powders like TG, Clays & Bullseye, can mean a double charge or bullet setback that can ruin your day. I would suggest to start, you use nothing faster than W231/Hp38 (same powder).

Fortunately I use a Dillon SDB with auto-indexing, making a double charge almost impossible.

My 2 cents. I cast so it is an advantage and I like doing it. I shoot 200 gr swc over plain old Clays, 231 or Tightgroup. Clays is the cleanest that I like. I like Unique for soft cast rifle loads but with pistol you look like a coal miner after a session of shooting. After the start up cost casting is the cheapest and the most gratifying if you don"t count some missed boob tube time. The way the new regime is going, being a little more self sufficient does"nt hurt either.Boon

quote:

Originally posted by onefunzr2:

quote:

Originally posted by fredj338:

All very true. The biggest thing to remember loading for pistol rounds is unlike rifle rounds, small changes in components can dramatically increase pressures. While you accuracy requirements are not as precise, your loading technique had better be. Running what I term uberfast powders like TG, Clays & Bullseye, can mean a double charge or bullet setback that can ruin your day. I would suggest to start, you use nothing faster than W231/Hp38 (same powder).

Fortunately I use a Dillon SDB with auto-indexing, making a double charge almost impossible.

Almost, but not impossible. You still need to pay close attention, especially using small charges of high pressrue, uberfast powders.

One I like is a 200gr. hardcast over 4.5gr. of Winchester Soper Target. makes major, and it's a clean burning powder.
I've loaded .45 on a Dillon square deal for years, good piece of equipment.