I just got myself a flash hole uniforming tool as part of an effort to lower the extreme spreads on my reloads. I was working with 375 Wby brass (Weatherby brand by Norma). I seriously can not see any type of "burring" around the flash hole of these cases. About all I feel I may be doing is enlarging the hole diameter by a miniscule amount and chamfering slight a concave angle onto the inside of the hole inside the case head. Total brass removed = maybe 3 small shards or chips. Am I accomplishing anything constructive here??

i have been told Norma brass is drilled,not punched like most brass made in the USA.
If that is the case,then you should see very little metal coming out of the case after deburring the flash hole.
Some would say every little bit will help.
I include this process whenever i buy new brass,
i figure it only needs to be done once so why not.

i'm used to working with win and rem brass and the brass over the flashole is noticeable. i just use a uniformer until there is an even bevel around the hole.

i haven't worked with any norma brass.i use lapua in my 308 and you don't have to worry with lapua because their flasholes are drilled during production. thats the only brass that i know of thats done that way.

Strut10-The Norma brass is drilled,but I'd still do it.It doesn't take much time or effort.

STINGER-How do you like the Lapua 308 brass?I'm going to buy some pretty soon and was wanting opinions.How much do they vary in weight?How about neck thickness?

I have tried uniforming flashholes as well as not uniforming them...... all I can say is, that the difference in accuracy is only measurable on the range but not under hunting conditions - at least in my loads

Don't bother on Norma or Lapua cases. I have seen some pretty big burrs come of WW or RP, that's what I am looking to remove.

Ditto Fred............

strut

Flashole deburring is like neck turning, weighing cases, and all the other things we do to our brass - it all depends on the cartridge and rifle. There have been tests done, maybe not laboratory controlled, on all these things and the results are just as you would suspect. Don't expect to see any positive results on a 30-30 Winchester M94, but expect to see positive results on a 6PPC benchrest rifle. Everything in between depends on how anal you are and how much work you want to do. I have a Benchrest background so I do things like flashole deburring and primer pocket reaming on ALL of my brass. Probably more out of habit than anything else. But, what else would I do with that time? Watch Oprah?

BTW, tests have shown that flash hole length rather than diameter (or burrs) is more important to accuracy.

Ray

I do it for Win & Rem brass, there is a really noticeable burr. You nay not gain much by deburring Norma Brass… but it can’t hurt. Have you tried to Uniform the Primer Pockets… that seemed to help a little for me, but I use Win Brass.

Here's what I got from some WW 7.62x39 brass. You only have to do it once.

Wow Bill how many cases did you process or did you get all that outa just one case?

I might get that outa about 50 comercial cases. I mostly use LC match these days and dont get hardly any scapings. But I still do it.

I uniform flashholes for two reasons:
-It removes the little sprues and chamfers the hole thus improving flame from the primer to the powder.
-It makes me feel better.
As far as Norma & Lapua brass, don't bother, fredj338 has it right.

That's 50 WW 7.62x39 cases.

I always put a paper towel down to catch the particles. that way, my bench stays clean and I know that something is happening.

when I did the primer pockets I got nothing.

quote:

Originally posted by Cheechako:


BTW, tests have shown that flash hole length rather than diameter (or burrs) is more important to accuracy.

Ray

I've asked on this forum before if anyone had any data pertaining to the effect of changing flash hole diameter, More of a quest for knowledge than anything else. If you have this info please PM or E-Mail it to me. Thanks ,Ray. roger

I have started uniforming my Remington brass, some have huge burrs, others have little or none.

The Speer brass for my .223 is the same.

Like it has been said previously it only needs doing once.