I decided to modify my home built annealing machine to use one torch rather than two. Much easier to set up and much easier to control the heat on the cartridge neck.
Updated the article with pictures and videos on my web site
Nice machine; but pretty complex and expensive; for most guys all you need is a cordless drill and a cup that fits into the chuck. Unless you are doing thousands of them. I just hold them in my fingers and drop them into water.
Posts: 17371 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009
I shoot mostly 38-40 in SAA and my lever actions; some 45 LC. I use 44-40 brass as it is easier to get. Never had any split cases yet in the 38-40; some on old 45 brass, none with starline. So, no need to anneal for me. Only thing I have annealed recently is 577-450 Martini case forming. And I have been shooting BP cartridges for many years without annealing.
Posts: 17371 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009
38-40 and NO split cases...You lead a charmed life. I wish I could say the same, but I get split cases after as few as four or five reloads and this is out of a number of different chambered firearms.
In my BP Cartridge shooting, my accuracy improved an order of magnitude once I started religiously annealing my cases.
Do what works for ya!
Posts: 260 | Location: Dartmouth, Massachusetts, USA | Registered: 30 December 2003
I use only starline brass in 38-40, and it is reallly 44-40 brass as that is easier to get; never had a split neck with that. I might have to try annealing my 45-90s but my accuracy is great now. For me, 1.5 moa with bp is great.
Posts: 17371 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009