I made a batch of reloads for 223 for the first time. They're going through a tikka t3. It is VERY difficult to close the bolt. I'm full length sizing with Hornady dies on a LNL progressive. It's going in fine, until I start to rotate the bolt closed, then there's resistance. OAL is right at spec according to the hornady manual, hornady 50 gr amax. I can close the bolt, but this is my gf's rifle, and I don't think she will be able too.

Try seating the bullet deeper in the brass.

Beryl H.

If your seating die has a taper crimp you could be expanding the case at the shoulder/body junction. Back off that seater die (test with resized case) until it is clear of the crimp taper then re-adjust the seater punch.

quote:

I made a batch of reloads for 223 for the first time.

Texas Mike.......

Don't want to query your reloading competency level, too much; meaning What? First time you've reloaded for a rifle, bottlenecked cases, or are the catridge cases themselves virgin?

I'd suggest the difficulty with chambering the cartridges is probably an issue with either;

Headspace,

Case Length,

The Roll Crimp (303 Guy's suggestion) meaning the Seating Die body is turned down too far in the Press, or the

Chamber, either dirty or a foreign matter in the bolt or Chamber somewhere.

Bullet not Seated far enough into the case,

and not particularly in that order, either.

Does the bolt close easily without a cartridge being chambered? If so, we now know it's either the Chamber or the Cartridges.

1. Easiest & fastest, Inspect & Clean Chamber & Bolt, while looking for anything untowards; dirt, grit, grime, etc.

2. Attempt to chamber re-sized cartridge case WITHOUT bullet. Primary issue is probably F/L (I trust a F/L Die, not a Lee Collet Die or Neck Sizer) Sizing Die Set-up creating headspace meaning you may need to give the F/L Die a partial or full turn downwards. I don't know what Dies you are using or where the cases originated, used, new, military, etc. From what you are describing (the resistance on bolt closure) I'll have to suggest that only little bit of downwards adjsutment on the F/L Die may solve your dilema. As an alternative go back & read set-up instructions for the Die Set and re-adjsut them. IMO this could be the main culprit.

3. Case Length new or used cases? Unknown source or did you purchase them new? Many questions but if less than new I'd measure them and then purchase an inexpensive Lee Hand-Held Case Trimmer set, (you'll need it sooner or later anyway).

4. If all above is Hoyle, then ensure the Seater Die isn't inserted into the Press so far that the Roll Crimp is bulging the neck or crushing the neck & shoulder junction of the re-sized cases.

5. Perhaps the bullets are not seated far enough into the case (OAL) causing them to be jammed into the rifling and this could be the resistance you are feeling while chambering a cartridge. Check OAL and in a safe environment attempt to chamber the cartridge and then exctract it from the Chamber, then inspect bullet (crediting berylh's &303Guy's idea).

Good Luck and let us know how you get along with this issue.

Like Gerry suggested, first try chambering a sized case (no primer, powder or bullet). If the case chambers hard, then you don't need to worry about bullets, seating etc.

Smoke or colour your case, if it chambers hard, you are likely to be able to see on the case where the "bottleneck" is.

Were these cases fired in another rifle (perhaps you picked them on the range, or bought 1'ce fired brass)?? If yes, you have to be aware that rifle chambers vary wildly in dimensions (as do dies, btw). Even with a FL reloading die, there is no guarantee you can size brass fired in another chamber to chamber smoothly in yours. Although, as a norm, you can do this - but there is no guarantee.

There are two places where cases often cause hard chambering: either because the head-shoulder dimension is on the long side, or because the case diameter just ahead of the web is too large. In either case, assuming your die will properly size these cases, you fix the problem by CAREFULLY turning your die in further (a BIT at a time). If you turn it in too far, you may reduce case head-shoulder dimensions too much and end up with case head separations after a few firings.

Keep brass (and dies) separate for each gun.

- mike

Wow, thanks for all the quick responses.

I've only been reloading for a few months, mainly 308 win. This was the first batch of 223 I've tried.

I got the brass at a gun show, once-fired I was told. I'll admit that I didn't measure the brass as well as I should have. Checked has length of a handfull of cases and didn't find anything much over trim to length, so I went ahead.

Sizer die is down as far as it will go without popping when the press cams over.

If I can't figure this out , I'll pick up a bag of new brass and try with that.

edit: Based on your guys input, I'm betting I've pushed the bullet too deep and bulged the necks. I'll pick up an OAL guage tomorrow so I can do this a bit more accurately.

Did you lube the inside of the case before sizing? If not your die’s expander button may be stretching the case when you pull the sized brass out of the sizing die. Been there, done that

To check to see if this is the problem size a few cases as you have been (we’ll call that test group A), then remove the expander/de-prime stem from the die and resize a few more cases (group B).

Try loading some of each brass group into your rifle. If group A is hard gives a hard to close bolt but group B lets the bolt close easily then you’ll know.

( I use a .22 caliber bore mop with a touch of lube inside each case neck when resizing brass then tumble the cases to get the lube off the inside and outside prior to seating primers)

quote:

I got the brass at a gun show, once-fired I was told.

Hey Mike,

Above sounds suspect to me - but like "mho" I am kinda anal about what I use and mho just somewhat rabid.....



.223 case's aren't gonna set your pocketbook back too awful much anyway.

Most of this "valuable" (but Free!) expereince comes from a "previous" expereince.....Been There, got the T-Shirt sorta thingie.

Progessive Presses - fast they are - also remember to ensure giving each stroke of a Progressive Loading Prees' Handle a Full Up/Down stroke. More previous experinece from my Dillon Square Deal!

quote:

Originally posted by michael.tx:

Sizer die is down as far as it will go without popping when the press cams over.

That may be the problem. If you are raising the ram, then screwing the die in until it touches the shell holder, it may not be resizing to fit your chamber. With that technique, you will see a gap between the die & the shellholder when you are actually sizing a case.

The die manufacturers suggest that you turn the die in until it touches, back off the ram, then screw the die in another 1/8 turn. It well cause the press to "cam over" without a case present. The process that most people use is to screw the die in a little bit at a time until a sized case will chamber in your rifle. Cases that have been fired in a another rifle can be problematic.

quote:

Originally posted by Gerry:

...but like "mho" I am kinda anal about what I use and mho just somewhat rabid.....

Gerry, old fart, I could well take exception to being described as "somewhat rabid"... Although, you are probably right - "rabid" probably describes it pretty well .

I think Mark hit the head on the nail. It has long been a mystery to me, even when you think you have turned in your FL sizing die to touch the shellholder at the top of the ram stroke, you will still find the brass sized more when you turn in the die just a bit more.

Being the "rabid" guy I am, I set my FL dies up to push my case shoulder back .001-.002" when sizing. This will ensure chambering with just a hint of resistance, and yet work the brass as little as possible. To quantify this, I use a headspace gauge from Stoney Point (now Hornady). As you progressively turn your die in, you actually find your head-shoulder dimension of the brass to INCREASE (because the brass sized in the sidewalls is pushed inward and can only move toward the shoulder). Only when the die actually hits the case shoulder, will the process of pushing back the shoulder begin. Funnily enough, this point often comes AFTER the die has been screwed in far enough to touch the shellholder! I have often wondered why it was possible to size "more" when the case "could not move further into the die". Maybe Mark just offered the perfect explanation. I learn something new every day

And here is a message from a "rabid" reloader: the resulting dimensions of a sized case will depend at least on the following factors: case dimensions before sizing (very close to chamber dimensions), die dimensions (and setting), and brass springback (increases with # of times case fired).

For a given die setting, with a given brand and age of brass, you can not expect to get the same sized case dimensions if you size cases fired in different chambers (i.e. which have different unsized dimensions).

If you are "rabid" about these things, you have to realize you should 1) keep brass separate for each rifle (chamber), and 2) unless you want to keep adjusting your dies when sizing for another rifle, it is a good idea to keep dies separate for rifles too...

So there, I have just increased your potential expenditure for both brass and dies - got to keep the economy moving, though

- mike

quote:

Originally posted by michael.tx:
I made a batch of reloads for 223 for the first time. They're going through a tikka t3. It is VERY difficult to close the bolt. I'm full length sizing with Hornady dies on a LNL progressive. It's going in fine, until I start to rotate the bolt closed, then there's resistance. OAL is right at spec according to the hornady manual, hornady 50 gr amax. I can close the bolt, but this is my gf's rifle, and I don't think she will be able too.

Have you tried any factory shells in this rifle? It is always a good idea to try new factory ammo for fit before trying to determine what may be wrong with your reloads. I use a Wilson head space gage to check for proper fit and length. I also use a small base die on all 223 ammo I pickup from the range or buy used at the gun show. Next besure the length of the shell is correct a little short is better than to long.

Good luck

Ok, I think it was a case lube issue. I put a fair ammount on the brush then sized and made a dummy, and it went in as easy as a factory round. I think I've had a similar problem with my 308s, hopefully this will fix them as well. Rookie mistake I guess. Thanks for the help everyone.

Watch it Michael, it is very likely the 1'ce fired brass you bought was fired in several chambers. It is a very limited test to size just one case, and conclude on the basis of that, that the remainder will also work.

Hey, why don't you get yourself some brand new brass (.223 Rem brass has got to about the cheapest around), and your problems will likely be over.

- mike