As the title states, I m looking to Make a auto case annealer. But I know if there is a lot of wiring to do I will buy one instead. But I d love to make one. The gratification is so much better then buying one, to me its too empty. I m a do it your selfer(well trying).

6mmbr.com has quite a bit of information on automated case annealing.

I along with a mechanical engineer made mine , which is similar too Ken lights design .

My friend had many pieces of Hodge Podge indexers timers and controllers .

Think carefully before making one as more times than not it's faster less expensive to purchase one !.

You need a base indexing table and annealing ring plate* minimum 1" thick with whatever hole size

your largest caliber case is . Now determine how many cases you wish to load on the machine * Plate Dia.

corresponds accordingly as does case size. You or someone has to make a base and annealing plate the other

stuff you can buy . My torch stands attach too my base as I have a stationary plate with a cut out

in one area , so my cases drop into the water pan under the base after annealing cycle is completed .

I would purchase one if it had not been for my friends surplus supplies .

http://www.weissna.com/?gclid=...jj35gCFRwwawodqHjHdA


http://www.driveswarehouse.com...&prop_10=2&x=27&y=10


http://www.webcomachinetool.co...id=20923&catid=19880

http://www.directindustry.com/...ve-16451-206912.html

http://www.rotomation.com/

http://sankyo-seisakusho.co.jp...sh/products_c2e.html

http://sankyo-seisakusho.co.jp...sh/products_c2a.html

Get the cheapist lead melt pot you can with thermostat and a casting thermometer. Get your lead melted to about 600/650 degrees and dip the case neck down in the lead to about 1/2 way on the shoulder for about 2 sec and drop in water. Not automatic but it sure is quick and easy and accurate temp. Oh,and you will pull the case before letting the annealing get too far up the case cause it will burn your fingers if you try.

I have annealed cases, but gave up on it.

Smaller reamers and bigger dies make the brass last a long time.

quote:

Originally posted by snoopy II:
Get the cheapist lead melt pot you can with thermostat and a casting thermometer. Get your lead melted to about 600/650 degrees and dip the case neck down in the lead to about 1/2 way on the shoulder for about 2 sec and drop in water. Not automatic but it sure is quick and easy and accurate temp. Oh,and you will pull the case before letting the annealing get too far up the case cause it will burn your fingers if you try.

I hear it isn't wise to try this. Due to the fact that you could "sodder" some lead to the case and screw things up on it.
If you do this, how do you avoid this?

I'm new to reloading but considering the stakes better to err on the side of safety.

I've found that seating bullets in annealed cases is smoother and more consistent; groups are a little tighter too, since I see less flyers.

But the issue for that is I want to make sure I do not kill my brass. So a automated case annealer would be best. The issue is from what I have seen is the cost! OUCH! This fall I start my machinist coarse at my collage....FINELY. Maybe it could be my final project!

james - i very much admire your do-it-yourself attitude, but it seems like a more efficient way would be to do it as per hornady's instructions:

quote:

frequent "working" of brass cartridge case necks through firing and resizing causes the metal to become brittle and eventually split. by heating then cooling the necks of the cases, a process called annealing, this brittleness can be eliminated and the life of the cases prolonged. (annealing is also useful when necking up cases.) annelaing is simple and safe. stand sized deprimed cases in a pan of water with only the upper one inch of the case above water level. heat the neck to pink hot with a propane torch and tip it over immediately to quench the heat. the case head, always under water, remains hard; the neck [is] now easy to work again. cases are ready to reprime and reload after they are completely dry. re-annealing is generally not necessary for another 8 to 10 reloads.

Oh it looks like most if not all my brass is due for it What is the right/preferred angle/position of the torch?
To evenly anneal wouldn't be strate down?

I stick my case into my 1/2 dewalt cordless drill at a slow speed and run it over the torch for 10 sec. and then drop it into a bowl of water. A fellow reloader just showed me this technique, works great.

quote:

Originally posted by Lightdogg:
I stick my case into my 1/2 dewalt cordless drill at a slow speed and run it over the torch for 10 sec. and then drop it into a bowl of water. A fellow reloader just showed me this technique, works great.

Do you put the shell right in the chuck?

the cordless drill idea loks to be a good one. i am guessing that if you have a lee case trimmer you can just chuck the shell-holder/lock stud there and use that.

James Kain ; Don't try to reinvent the wheel . Here is how WildBoar does his cases one at a time

it's a safe efficient and fairly quick method to anneal cases one by one . Make your pipe pivot in a

vice or holder , so you simply tilt it down case slides out when it's annealed . To avoid neck dents

drop into a bucket of water . Note the pipe protects the case body torch angle is correct .

Length of flame exposure will vary depending on caliber , flame configuration and type of gas used !.




Get some old cases experiment doing it in a dimly lit setting using a stop watch will give you

an indication of time necessary or purchase Temp Lacquer stick and use a stop watch so as to know the

average time it requires . Your Home free OK. You can Do it !!. BOL

looks good, doc!