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<mikeh416Rigby> |
By all means avoid the stainless rods. From almost everything I've read about them they can "score" your barrel. The coated rods are much easier on the barrel. Here's a little tip to extend your barrel life: when cleaning your bore, push the dirty patches out the end of the muzzle, and when you remove the cleaning rod, wrap an old towel around it, and give it a few swipes. This will remove any residue, and you won't be shoving that junk back down the bore with the next patch. | ||
one of us |
Actually, you should not push the rod all the way to the muzzle. Even the slightest pressure can deform the crown easily. I use a Sinclair bore guide and I marked my Dewey so that when the line matches the guide I am exactly at the begining of the muzzle with the jag. | |||
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<Ricochet> |
You might also want to look in to Accu-Pro Jags. They have o-rings around them so they can't touch the bore. These are sold by Brownells. | ||
<eldeguello> |
I find the wide range of ideas about what makes a good cleaning rod to be amazing. For example, there are barrelmakers who say to avoid ANY soft (coated, brass, aluminum) rods because they pick up abrasives which imbed in the rod material and damage bores. Then there are people who are as adamant that hard steel rods should not be used, but rather recommend the use of the very coated rods others find anathama!! So, what do we decide to use? Of course, there were also the HP rifle competitors in the past who NEVER CLEANED THEIR M1'S AT ALL!! | ||
<KTS> |
quote: HEHE, yep. I sell cleaning rods, J. Dewey is by far the most popular. I use Pro-Shot stainless Rods for my personal use with a rod or bore guide I don't worry about scoring the bore, I would hope that todays guns are of a higher quality steel than in the olden days and scoring and scratching bbls with a cleaning rod is the least of my worries. When I clean a gun I use Mpro-7 and the rod just isn't used that much before the bore is clean. And too, as the gentleman said, unless the bbl I'm using is real finicky or gets wet I just don't clean 'em much any more. | ||
one of us |
quote: Ditto. IMO coated rods are no better than aluminum. Provived the rod has no sharp protrusions and isn't shoved through the bore at, say 1,000 FPS, I don't think it could cause anymore damage than the copper/lead projectiles I fired through it. Just my nickel. Eddie | |||
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one of us |
Neil Jones makes/sells stainless rods. He knows his doo doo. He sells a bore guide that has a centering bushing. The idea is the the guide/bushing system keeps the rod centered, and with the correct fitting patch, the rod never bows enough to peen the bore... It would be interesteng to look at one of my Dewey rods under high magnification to see of there is anything embedded that would abrade the bore. I use both kinds of rods, because like everyone else, I hear lots of stories, but have no real data, like most all the other crap we argue about like fluting, moly, etc. Theories abound, little scientific process to back up the BS. Oh well, what would we post about then? R | |||
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<Frank> |
Like above post I use neil jones stainless rod and guide and dewy. With that said I prefer the neil jones system. | ||
<.> |
Now here's a subject that's ripe for debate. I use a stainless for the reasons listed above. find a brass jag that is smooth, and well made and then BE CAREFUL !!! I push the jag and rod out of the muzzle, but I do so GENTLY. I also come back in very GENTLY. Don't bow the rod or otherwise force it into the bore. You should move a cleaning rod down the bore like you're moving a sharp sword down your throat -- (you know . . . like in the circus). I avoided bronze brushes for a while. Then I discovered that the nylon brush won't get the bore clean. Bronze brush causes nowhere near the wear and tear of a jacketed bullet running 3500 fps with gas behind it. Push the brush completely out of the bore before pulling back. Don't change directions mid-bore. My barrels are getting cleaner now that I'm waiting 10 minutes or more for the solvent to work on the coppering. ------------------ | ||
one of us |
Good topic. Generally: don�t use sectioned rods, except the edges are from brass or the complete rod is from brass! Aluminium gets oxidized, and aluminium oxide is used for lapping! If you must have stainless get a one piece rod! Brass rod, wiped down regularly as pointed out above, brass jags from the breech, Hoppe�s # 9, eventually over night,it will take some time, but my barrels are clean and get smoother all the time! I use Marble�s rods, as they are quite stiff, but I hate that swivel up front. I will try Kleenbore or Dewey ( brass ) rods in the future, anybody any experiences? Any body knows other brass rods? ( not Outers! ) I strongly recommend the Tipton jag set ( also sold by Cabela�s ). Good jags and perfect packaging! Hermann ------------------ | |||
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<KING> |
I've use Hopp's one piece carbon graphite rod with a brass tip, to screw in jags. Works very well can see the wear on the rod as it has run through the barrel. I can see why you guys use coated rods. The hops rod works very well. Not too expensive, and although it may bend when using it still pushes the brush/patch out the bore. PS: The handle swivels with the rifling of the barrel. The plastic jags work well with this outfit. | ||
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