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Hello gentleman, I'm so new to this I haven't even purchased the 1st component yet! Research, Research ,Research, so I'm asking the experienced, what powder would you guys use for .223 and .300 Blackout? Also buying a die kit would you buy the one with the neck sizer or just the 3 die set ? Trying to not over or under purchase. Thanks for any help I can get! Steve. | ||
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 Welcome. You are going to hear this a lot. Get A reloading manual Lyman has a real good one with good descriptions.Start there. check each caliber that you load for. bullets and powder, there are so many combinations and just about everyone has a special load. always start low and work up. | |||
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You are doing it right; not like this guy I know who buy $3000 worth of progressive equipment and do not have the skills to put gas in his car. Yes, get a loading manual, and read for a few weeks. all will be revealed. Get Lyman, Hornady, Lee, manuals. All of them. What rifles are you loading for? It matters. Actually if everyone would start with a ten dollar Lee Loader they would learn a lot but no one does that any more. I know, it is not 1960......... | |||
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Sierra is my favorite reloading manual. With lots of information about getting started, the basics. A very simple single stage press from RCBS is how I started and still use them to this day. Welcome to the forum by the way! | |||
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Yes, read all about it and buy the just the basic necessities for a start. Reloading is one of those pastimes like brewing your own beer and bottling fruit that only makes sense to some people in certain economic times - unless you want special loads unavailable in store-bought ammo, you may decide life is too short to bother. | |||
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For .223 Rem just for plinking the most popular powder would be Hodgdon H335 with the most popular bullet for plinking being Hornady 55 FMJ's. For 300 Blackout supersonic loads I love Hornady 110 V-Max and shoot a lot of 147 gr. M-80 FMJ's. For a hunting load the Nosler 125 Ballistic Tips or Hornady 125 SST bullets are great. Since there are so many .223 and 30 caliber bullets available for plinking, target match, and hunting and many different weight bullets what you intend o use them for is the biggest choice. But powders for getting started I'd pick Hodgdon H110 for 300 BLK and H-335 for .223. There are lots of load data for both powders. If you want to shoot heavy for caliber bullets you may need another powder. I'd recommend just buying the regular full length die sets for both. I prefer Hornady or RCBS full length die sets for both calibers | |||
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All true; picking the powder and bullet is not the first step. Like buying a hammer is not the first step in building a house. There are many types of hammers; first determine what you want to do with it; bust rocks or hang pictures. | |||
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....or smash your thumb! LOL All great advice and the OP cannot go wrong if he follows it. Zeke | |||
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As others have said read several manuals. You don't need $1000s of equipment to make good quality reloads. Many of us started with the little lee loader. As to the dies. I would suggest a simple FL set. I'm split about 50/50 Hornady and RCBS. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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 After you fill your mind with all the great knowledge you will get from the loading manuals it'll be time to look at equipment starting I feel with a good press, shell holders and dies. RCBS makes about the best you will need and they stand behind their product. You will need something to weigh powder. I recommend a good mechanical beam balance. Personally I would stay away from the electronic weighing and dispenser combos. I've tried many but always go back to my Redding which I've used for 60 years. Again I've used many powder dispensersBut for the last 10 to 15 years I've found that the inexpensive Lee with it's angled plastic drum Is the best design and works just great for me.  I use wooden case holders many of which you can make for yourself. You maay want to start with Imperial case lube. Almost any of the inside out side chamfering tools will doYou will have to decide what powders, primers and bullets are best for you. As earlier suggested the 335 will give you a start. Hopefully you will find this preliminary helpful.  rogerOld age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone.. | |||
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As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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Where are you located there might be some one close by to help show you the ropes. | |||
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these kits are a good starting point like mentioned . https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-S-...er-Kit/dp/B007ZZO5D6 https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Pre...3EXWNM81D6EJM8GQ5RDS would have liked to have had the Lee when I started | |||
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This was the exact response I was hoping for, lots of options from the seasoned group, I will be hanging around mainly as a lurker and if need any advice I feel good about asking here, thank you all for the advice! Steve. | |||
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You need not spend more than 150 to get going. Book, press, dies. Read Read think, plan, then double check then start with recommended starting loads and work safely, please. Doug Wilhelmi NRA Life Member | |||
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I recall my first dive into reloading, I think I was 12, my dad said your gonna blow yourself up, but guess he didn't mind that!! I bought it used, a Lyman hand tool, a hammer, and a set of strange 25-35 dies and 45 colt dies in a paper bag with other asundry stuff...I was happy as a church mouse and my Schwin bike went down the road. The bike didn't work well on our dirt roads anyway, the guy that ended up with it live close to a hiway..I remember my first handloads blew the action open on my 25-35, and I shot it like that for about 6 months until dad shot a deer with it starred at it and asked how long it been doing that, I said about 6 months, pretty cool huh. He tossed my gun over a bluff, man was I quitly pissed. A week later he presented me with a new 25-35..and I sneaked back and got my old one and took it to town and traded it for a saddle and a pair of Kelly Spurs. Nothings changed since that day.  Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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That is the best advise I got 24 years ago. 1. Just stick to the Lyman manual for the first 2 years. Do not confuse yourself with other data sources until you REALLY UNDERSTAND pressure. 2. Read the chapters in the front before you look at the loads. Read them 3 times and then read them again 10 more times. Not joking. 3. Understand pressure and the complex relationships between case, bullet, powder, primer, seating depth etc. 4. A hint on Pressure - Remember the thumb rule - 5% increase in powder will give 10%+ increase in pressure at the top end. But velocity will not go up at the same rate. You need to understand this dynamic in your own mind. 5. Get a chronograph. A Shooting Chrony is fine. Be safe and have fun.
"When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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Nothing wrong with Lee products. I started 24 years ago with the Anniversary kit for about US$50 IIRC. Lee products make perfectly good ammo. You should get a cheap digital scale calibrated for grains and also digital calipers and a micrometer. If you get really serious and after a few years you want to upgrade, then go for it. I would ignore all the rubbishing against Lee products for beginners. "When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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Ordered the Lyman manual, it should be here by Tuesday, without knowing any more than I do, I'm leaning towards the Lee Classic Turret kit, pretty good price thru Midway USA. May change my mind when I actually start reading the manual tho, we will see, I really appreciate the response to my inquiries, thank you all again! Steve. | |||
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Sdec--Many will disagree, but I'd go single stage vs turret. Why? With turret you can place a cartridge in shell holder, size and deprime and reprime, spin turret and charge, spin and seat bullet. What did you lose? You didn't wipe the sizing lube off,(personally I tumble my brass at that point to remove it) you didn't handle the brass to see if any necks split during sizing, you didn't inspect the primer to see that it was properly seated and you didn't get to look that your powder charges looked equal. You gained a little time. Very critical if supplying ammo for a war, otherwise so what? RCBS rockchucker is hard to beat in my books. You asked about neck sizer or just the 3 die set. Many and for their good reasons neck size only. I full length resize as I think there is a better chance it will feed properly. If using jacketed bullets, there is not a need to expand the neck. If you use cast bullets (which is a whole different ballgame, if you cast your own)you need the 3rd die to expand the neck. | |||
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I've reloaded for about a half century and have never felt any need for anything other than a single stage press. I'm not interested in how fast I can reload, but rather, how well I can reload.  Aim for the exit hole | |||
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Absolutely single stage. Turret press is for pistol & high volume varmint ammo IMHO. You can get cheap single stage presses on Ebay etc. Lee anniversary kit is very inexpensive and very reliable. "When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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This place is great. Pick and choose what you believe is right for you. The following is just my opinion, worth what you paid for it. The Hornady manual is a good one with info on reloading, pressure signs etc. Use it with other manuals. I always advise looking at more than one manual. The 2nd book with ballistic tables is excellent too. The Hornady balance scale is the easiest to use. Electronic are obviously better. (budget) I decap by hand, clean (ss media) and then resize. For most pistol cases I determine the powder charge and then use LEE dippers. LEE also makes an inexpensive powder measure that throws very repeatable charges. It works good. I then reprime by hand using a LEE posi-prime rather than priming using the (single stage) press. Some incidental things you may also want: kinetic bullet puller, powder funnel, decapping punch (LEE, inexpensive), calipers as mentioned. Stay away from maximum loads and extrapolate data using two or more manuals (already stated, but important) A Chrony chonograph is essential for developing loads. $110 or so. My friends who are new to reloading or don't reload think I'm an expert. I come here and realize I am nothing more than an interested enthusiast who's been doing it for a while. | |||
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I must see if I can get a chronograph myself, Joe, after 40 years without one. I'm not sure I'd expect a new guy to jump straight into it, though. Even stuff like bullet pullers and powder dippers can be done without. At the cost of the odd scratched projectile, multi-grips over a die-less press will pull bullets; and any number of thimble-sized containers might be used to scoop powder. | |||
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Here is my Kinetic bullet puller for 416 Rigby.     [/URL]The standard model does not handle the 416 Rigby case. So I used a bit of pipe, shell holder & rubber tube material. Just throw the thing hard on a block of wood and catch it as it bounces back. It actually works better than the standard hammer type as the rubber part protects the bullet tip. Unfortunately I cannot make a chronograph though I own an electronics assembly business!  "When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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If you have a large number of jacketed bullets to pull, the kinetic puller will give you a pretty good workout. For this the RCBS collett puller is much better. Drawback to the collet puller is you have to buy a collett for every cal you will be pulling. The collett puller doesn't always work so good on cast bullets. For this as Sambarman stated run bullet through a press without the die and latch onto it with pliers. This will ruin cast bullets--no problem remelt and re-pour. In the case of a flat nosed bullet that is seated deeply a kinetic puller is needed and for me that's about the only use of a kinetic puller. Powder measure--I read about this that and the other powders that wont meter through most measures. The old cave man looking Belding & Mull measure will throw a consistent charge with any powder I've ever used. They are slower. You can find them on EBAY. | |||
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I lived for a long time without a chronograph but I consider them pretty important when working up a load, especially for my 1911's. I like to keep the 230's at no more than 850 fps and the 200's at no more than 900 fps. I just put together about 150 .357 mag w/158 gr. cast. The LEE dippers are cheap and they shaped them just right, imo. Obviously I'm using a single stage press. I wish I could shoot more than I do. | |||
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RCBS Rock Chucker press, Redding rifle dies, Redding powder charger. If pistol I like the Dillon Carbide dies. Plenty of reloading manuals you can find used ones at a discount price at the gun shows. I keep al my reloading manuals they are great for cross referring load data. Swede --------------------------------------------------------- NRA Life Member | |||
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Welcome Steve, Here's another vote for a single stage press, I actually started loading for my 30/06 with the Lee Classic, then bought a press and dies. I've been loading for over 30 yrs and spend winters loading my pistol rounds for the summer, all on the single stage press. You'll need at least two powders, one for the 223 (IMR4895 was my pick) and one for the 300 BLK (Lil Gun is my pick). I'm loading supersonic 110 gr bullets in the 300 BLK. Glad to see you are reading the manuals first. | |||
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Good questions ask..... I started reloading 30 years ago with a simple RCBS kit. Since have gotten a larger RCBS press and powder measure. Am currently reloading 223, 7 x 57, 270, 300 Savage, and 30-06. My dies are RCBS or Hornaday. I do not believe spending a lot of $$$ at the beginning is necessary [or wise ]. The others are right on with the advice about manuals. My first was a borrowed Nosler manual...before I spent a dollar. Now I have 3 to use as needed. Good manuals don't have to be NEW manuals. Find some local guy to show you some of his stuff. See how he does it. If you shoot at a regular range, you might be able to get all the 223 brass you need there. Your goal with reloading should be loads which shoot well in your rifles. Real hot loads are not needed. I have had success in length trimming using the Lee trimmer/gauge which mounts in a cordless drill. I use IMR4320 reloading the 7 x57 and the 300 Savage, so I use it reloading my 223 stuff. the small granules move thru the powder measure nicely. IMR4320 is underappreciated IMHO. Electronic scales/balances are spendy and sometimes problematic. Used them for a number of years in a chemistry lab setting. Nicely consistent when they are working well, but sometimes erratic, tending to drift, affected by nearby electrical currents and/or mechanical vibrations, and requiring multiple calibrations. IMHO electronic scales are female. Mechanical balances work just fine. Dependable. Male. :-) couldn't resist. Reloading is a fine hobby. Look for sound advice. Proceed slowly. Be Safe. have a good time., | |||
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As a shoe-string reloader, here's another tip. Buy one good manual that will explain how to reload but, if you know anyone with others, ask if you can photocopy the pages for your your calibre - and compare them all before starting. The internet is also awash with loads. I would be reluctant to use them as the primary source but they can be useful comparisons. Believe it or nuts errors sometimes do occur in manuals and some compilers get carried away. I have three additions of one company's manual and noticed their loads for at least one calibre increased somewhat in the second edition. The third edition took the loads back to the original ones! | |||
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First, I think you have come to the best site to solicit accurate useful information. Buy one or two manuals. I prefer Hornady myself for manual and bullets. Determine sources for components, either locally or mail order. Read the manuals before going to local stores, some have less than competent employees to assist you. What is your budget for equipment and supplies? How much will you shoot? What are your shooting goals, target, plinking, hunting? Typically bullets get cheaper/100 the more you buy. It is easy, safe and if one does it right a part of the fun of shooting. Good Luck. Don't limit your challenges . . . Challenge your limits | |||
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These responses are way better than I had hoped to get, I bought the Lymans manuel and am almost thru reading the front section, leaning hard to a single stage, I think I will be more methodical using a single, the kit prices are hard to beat even if some items you already know you want to upgrade. I will start with the .223 and .300 Blackout, then progress to the .270 and 7mm-08, then .40 cal for my Glock. I love reading the various options, I will probably read the front of the book again before I buy anything unless a great sale happens, thank you all again! Can't hardly wait to get started! Steve. | |||
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I can already tell that you will make great safe ammo & teach others to do the same! Firstly you asked for good advise. Then you actually took that advise. Finally you have understood the basics! Wish you all the best - have fun & be safe. Try and get hold of John Barsness' articles on thumb rules in Handloader magazine. I found them very easy to understand and also helped sort out some confusions and myths. His piece on thumb rules for pressure was accompanied with some actual tests & data.
"When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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To add to the great advice you've gotten so far... While I am solidly in the camp that believes beginners should start on single stage equipment I would throw out the following for you to consider: Lee classic cast turret press, not the value version. The classic cast, IMO, has several things going for it; 1. Price - Currently you can get them for around $100 2. Simplicity - Even with a turret you are still perfoming one step at a time. 3. Versatility - The cast turret will easily handle the rounds you plan to reload and longer rifle rounds if needed. 4. Speed - Though not important in the beginning, when you get more experience you'll want to load faster. The turret will allow you to produce ammo faster than a single stage. Single stage presses are fine, however they limit you to whats called batch reloading which is how it was done for years. Nothing wrong with it but you may find it tedious after a few months depending on the volume you need. There are other brands of turrets. RCBS and Redding are very high quality presses. The Lee is a good quality press at an affordable price point. I wouldn't buy the kit personally, because I think there are better options for some of the components in the kit. | |||
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If you do a search "new to reloading" (under find) it will turn up over 200 pages you can find information on about any thing. http://forums.accuratereloadin...&forum_scope=2511043 | |||
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I've been playing this game since 1958. Started and learned on my own. Made just about every mistake that can be made and never got into serious trouble or blown a gun up. I have found the Lee dippers Joe promotes is a half assed way to get screwed up inconsistent loads. I had a friend that loaded that way. When his health took a final dive he gave me about 500 rnds of .357, 243 and 30'06. Just to double check. I pulled half dozen of each and never found ANY loads that matched each other. That scared me with his 357's, some were so light I'd be concerned the bullet would stick in the bore, and others had half again as much powder as the books showed as max loads. How he kept from blowing things up I have no clue. I pulled every single load down +- 1500 rnds. IF you're interested in the mallet way of loading I have his Lee Loaders, 357, 243 and two sets of 30'06, and the box of dippers, along with a 20ga Lee press. I've got 'em out and been planning on sending them back to Lee for whatever refund they'd be willing to send. PM if interested, you or anyone else. Go with a single stage press until you learn the game well. I'd go with RCBS dies and 1010 balance beam scale. They're pricey now, I got mine in '58 for $20, they're plus $100 now. Lee, Lyman, RCBS, and several other brands of presses are all good. Some may be better than others. But, you sure shouldn't start out with a turret until you learn what you're doing. I still ONLY prime with a Lee hand primer yet. I've had at least 6 Lee powder measures over the years. Every single one of them leaked powder! I nearly burned the house down because of it one night. Now I use the RCBS Uniflow measure for rifle cases and their Lil Dandy for the small stuff. Good luck and great to see new blood on the board, especially someone willing to ask and take advice before becoming another web expert. You'll go far and long this way. Welcome to reloading and a great board. George "Gun Control is NOT about Guns' "It's about Control!!" Join the NRA today!" LM: NRA, DAV, George L. Dwight | |||
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Interesting. Before the advent of light battery powered scales, bench rest shooters were setting records using kits that included dippers. I watched a lady shooter dredge her dipper through a tupperware bowl of powder, tap it lightly on the edge of the bowl, and strike it even with the edge of a credit card before dumping it in the case. I can't remember if she placed 3rd or 4th. My point is, regardless of whatever tool you choose to use, you have to have a consistantcy of motion if you're gonna load consistant ammo. Aim for the exit hole | |||
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If we haven't been all the way here ... I dip powder out of a near-full margarine container with a Lee dipper or a Fioche brass shotshell. The latter has been cut off about an inch from the rim and has a short bolt screwed in through the primer pocket. To adjust the load I can screw the bolt in or out. I then throw each load into my old Lyman scales and trickle any extra powder from another shotshell with a small pipe or straw (with a hole cut in the middle) angled through it. This may not give super speed but is fast enough when you are working up loads and was mostly made from found objects. | |||
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That's fine if you weigh the charge. Marvin didn't even own scales. George "Gun Control is NOT about Guns' "It's about Control!!" Join the NRA today!" LM: NRA, DAV, George L. Dwight | |||
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