I am new to reloading and bought a used relaoding kit that included some Speer 148 grain hollow base wadcutter bullets and federal cases that appear to be resized with primers removed. I put new primers in. I would like to load these using 2.5 gr Bullseye but I'm not sure how to use the dies supplied. One of the dies is marked "seat #3" and the other is marked "size #1" Aren't the bullets resized when the primers are removed with the third die? Or is one of them for crimping after the bullet is seated? The box for the RCBS dies is marked "3 die set .38 spec swc"

I strongly recommend that you buy a reloading manual, they explain the various steps needed in order to reload a cartridge.
The sizing die (die #1) is used to resize the case, and includes a center rod that pushes out the old primer at the same time.
The next die (probably should be marked #2, but you don't mention it) would be to expand the upper portion of the case to the proper diameter to hold the bullet. The powder is then weighed and put into the case, the bullet placed on top and the seating/crimping die (#3 die) is used to push the bullet into the case, and also apply a roll crimp to the top of the case to help hold the bullet in position.
All of this, and also how to properly adjust the dies in the press is covered in a reloading manual and you really should read about it and learn all of the safety tips before you start trying to load your own ammo.

Welcome to a great hobby. And yep, you're definitely need one, and better yet, several reloading manuals.

Some good "How-to" manuals would be Lyman's 49 or Hornady's.

I've been a reloader for more than 35 yrs and I learned how to do it from a Hornady manual - still got it somewhere, but use the more recent ones now.

I refer to Speer, Sierra, Hornady, Lyman 49 and Nosler manuals when working up a recipe for a reload.

Suggestion, keep your powder charges in the low to mid ranges and your brass will last longer, recoil will be easier and you have more room for error. For if you load at the max, you better watch closely that you don't go over.

Some do, but I don't roll crimp my 38s. I just crimp them enough to remove the flare I put in to seat the bullet. Since I'm shooting my 38s in a Ruger SP 101 (chambered for .357 Mag), I can load them hot, by 38 standards - kinda like a 38+P.

And the manuals tell me how much powder to put in for such and such grain bullet.

And don't be surprised if the max powder charge from one manual isn't the max charge of another. I calculate the averages and stay in the middle with my powder charges.

Hack

these guys are right ..... you need some guidance.............. get a reloading book or two or three and study up before you start..... the best way to learn how to reload is have an experienced reloader show you a explain the process as you go.....................

I have several reloading manuals, Hornady, Nosler and the old Speer manual that came with the kit. After compaaring the 38 dies to my new 45 acp dies (which I have loaded about 500 rounds with), I think maybe my sizing die is missing a part. It does not have an expander threaded down through the top. Do the cartridges have to be expanded for the wadcutter bullets?

Some RCBS 38 Spec die seta have the expander and decapper in the same die with the sizer empty. You should have:

A Sizer (with or without decapper)

An Expander (with or without decapping rod)

A Seater with an adjustable seating plug; also there are different seating plugs for different bullet tips.

And to add to what airgun1 said,

your seating die should be able to apply a taper-type crimp to the mouth of your case after seating the bullet.

The way you adjust it is to:

1st - seat the bullet to the depth you want (that will be your AOL)

2nd - back the seating stem up away from the seated bullet.

3rd - then screw the die on down until it meets resistance (that will be the rim of the mouth) then do about an eighth of a turn more, at a time, and you'll be on your way to slightly crimping the case mouth.

Hack

quote:

Originally posted by olyfish:
...I think maybe my sizing die is missing a part. It does not have an expander threaded down through the top. Do the cartridges have to be expanded for the wadcutter bullets?

148 Grain Lead Hollow Base wadcutters require you to bell the case mouth to ease entry of the lead boolet. That procedure is usually done by the second die after the case has been resized and spent primer punched out by the first die. Since straight-walled pistol cases don't have necks their die sets don't incorporate a neck expander in the resizing die. The case mouth belling operation is a separate step that is done for cast or swaged lead, as well as jacketed bullets. The bell is ironed straight by the seating die and then crimped around the end of a true wadcutter lead boolet, or into the cannelure of a jacketed bullet by the crimp die...thus a 4 die set.

I'd include pics but my press doesn't use your kind of dies.

You really need to bone up on the correct procedures.

lee sells universal case mouth expanding dies for around $15.............. i have thought about one since i have trouble getting bullets started into the case too.......... my favorite lee dies are not made anmore i guess... lee carbide speed dies are not in the on line catalog for last couple of years....

quote:

Originally posted by olyfish:
The box for the RCBS dies is marked "3 die set .38 spec swc"

How many dies do you have? My guess is that you're missing the expander die. It's not like a rifle set that expands the neck with the sizing die. If you don't have an expander, the Lyman "M" die in your caliber would be a great investment.

Seating dies typically can apply a crimp, but there are exceptions. Further, there are separate crimp dies that can apply either a roll crimp or a taper crimp, depending on the application.

You really need to do some reading.

Don't get confused listen to what Airgun1 said some older RCBS had a sizer die ONLY no rod to decap, the #2 die to bell the case mouth had the decapper and your 3rd die will be for a roll crimp not a taper unless it was bought seprate and it will say taper on the top of the die, you might be able to get away with the SWC plug (seater) some dies had a very shallow lip and would work on a WC.

2.5grs of bullseye W/148gr WC is the true accuracy load for that bullet 30 years ago and still is.