At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot, could you tell me how you tighten your die lock rings. Up to this point I have been using lock rings with flats and tightening them with a wrench. I just purchased some Redding Dies and immediately destroyed the knurling on the lock rings when i used a vise grip. The die is not affected, but the lock rings look like crap now. Am I overly concerned with tightening? Will the dies keep their adjustment by only hand tightening the lock ring? Thanks in advance.

Most lock rings (not Lee) have some method for securing the ring to the die so they form a single "assembly". I assume this is not what you're talking about but rather screwing the assembly into the press and not having it move during use. I just hand-tighten mine in the single stage press, but do wrench-tighten them in the progressive.

Thanks for noting the distinction. I am using them in a Dillon 550 progressive.

I won't accuse you of being an idiot, as I bet everyone has put plier marks on knurled lock rings at least once in their career. However, I will politely mention that the instructions that come with dies are always worth the 45 seconds or so it takes to read them. <G>

What you can do, if you so choose, is grind 2 flats on your rings so the next time you use pliers they won't look so funky, and also give you a better grip on the ring. Just mark out the areas you want to grind by choosing the 2 worst opposing vise grip marks.

I had expected somebody else to have made this comment by now, but since nobody has, I'll have a go at it. Chuck your Redding/RCBS and Lee lock rings, and get yourself a bunch of Hornadys. Lock Stock and Barrel sells them for around $2.50 a piece. The Hornady is the best die lock ring available - no set screw into the die threads, all steel, and flats to be used with a wrench.
- mike

I agree that the set screw into the die threads isn't exactly an elegant solution. However, it works ok if you simply put a piece of lead shot under the screw.

All my Redding lock rings have a set screw with a lead pellet bearing against the die threads. You turn the lock ring down by hand and use a hex key on the set screw.

I also use the lead shoot under the set screw. I have plenty of them (lead shot)

I just bought a new set of RCBS dies and the lock rings are junk, actually I was a little disappointed in the whole die set.

The simple fix is order a Forrester lock ring. Midays sells them for a little over three bucks, the split rings work a lot better. I am not into shotguns I never have lead shot laying around.

Who sells the Hornady rings without a factory service order?

I would recommend filing the flats onto the locking rings as opposed to grinding them. If the rings happen to be aluminum, as a lot of them are, the potential exists for a buildup of aluminum on the grinding wheel, and that holds heat. There are situations where aluminum in a carborundum grinding wheel has caused the wheel to overheat and literally explode.

quote:

Who sells the Hornady rings without a factory service order?

My bust a page over in the Midway catalog, and a buck cheaper, with the flats.

I was working on my next Midway order I will just add a couple to it.

Dillon sells a wrench that fits lock rings for most dies. I have a 550B and use either the aforementioned wrench or a Cresent. I don't think hand tight is good enough on the Dillon Progressive. If I have dies that have a set screw and am able to tighten them down, I don't worry about the set screw.

I have fifty sets of RCBS dies and never a problem with lock rings. When I get a new set of dies I set the lock rings and leave them alone. RCBS sells a little cheap stamped socket wrench for the lock rings that works great.
I don't know what people are having trouble with

Lyle

With sizing dies, I just push the ram up to square the die, spin the lock ring down, and she is as tight as you are going to get.

Getting them out generally involves leverage.... FWIW, Dutch.

Use O rings such as provided on Lee dies, throw those dies away, then put the O ring under whatever metal ring comes with your good die. You can then tighten them by hand to square them against the ram sufficiently to keep them squared and you still have a bit of "give" to enable the die to float for more concentric reloading.

I take a thick washer and grind the sides parrell. Then when squaring the die I put the washer on the shellholder and move the ram up to load the die. This pushes the die threads tight to the press threads. Now you can hand tighten your lock ring easily as the threas are already tight to the press. Your die is now tight and square to the shellholder.

I have several "water pump" style adjustable pliars that have incredibly durable foam strips on them that cover the pliars jaws! These blue foam strips that cover the jagged jaws surfaces are 1/4" thick.
I am able to adjust these pliars to either the large lock ring on the die body or the small nuts on the stems of the dies!
These pliars were bought by me from the Boeing Airplane Companies "Surplus Store" near Seattle some years ago. I probably bought 80 or 100 pairs over the years for $1.00 each and sold them at Gunshows for $5.00 each!
These pliars will not damage even the softest of aluminum rings and keeps ones dies looking spiffy and brand new!
Sorry though, the few pairs I have left are not for sale!
I can even use one pair of these pliars to grab the body of used dies that have one or the other of the nuts or rings "frozen" tight and get them to release WITHOUT marring the die body of the die, the nut or the lock ring!
Dozens of times I have bought dies with "frozen" rings or nuts for a pittance and then broke them loose with my foam pliars and resold them - again for a profit!
I have looked everywhere for these pliars since I moved from the Seattle area 8 years ago. I have been unable to find them! And when I get back out to Seattle it seems the Boeing Surplus store is never open on a day I can get by!
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy

quote:

Originally posted by Bob338:
Use O rings such as provided on Lee dies, throw those dies away, then put the O ring under whatever metal ring comes with your good die.

hey that's a good idea.

I once wanted to get a RCBS decapping pin, so I bought some RCBS dies, removed the pin, threw out the dies, wrote RCBS a nasty note, went over to my neighbor's house and threw away his rockchucker press, kicked his dog, and then broke the fron window of every gun store I could find selling RCBS products.

glad to see we think alike, even if you are a bit timid still.

If any of you want to get rid of extra Lock Rings that have the lock studs, shoot me a PM. RCBS, Redding, etc.

I'm looking for a few.

Thanks,

Reloader